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Re: taking the tubs apart
Is the tub area your sealing plastic>??If you need help in removing the tub than your going to have to purchase a tool that you will never probably use 2 times in your life and its around $30.00.Its called a Spanner Wrench.It fits the lock nut that is holding the tub down.You may be able to get a pipe wrench to work but thats a bad gamble.If you are sealing a leak,what are you exactly using???
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This really depends on brand and model of washer. Some washers have a belt, so belt could be bad. Others have a coupling that goes between the motor and transmission, so that could be broke. Also, something could be wedged between the tub and outter tub, keeping the tub from moving. First, see if you can turn tub with your hand and then move on from there.
the belt might have come off of the tub take it back apart and look underneath and see if the drive belt is loose or on the floor when the tub came loose it probably slipped the belt off before stopping.
you need to check all hose fittings if not there and this is an old machine it may be the tub if tub you will have to remove spin tub and patch rust spots on the main tub clean rust and patch with epoxy this is a big job if the machine is old parts will be frozen in place
if its a front load machine its most likely your tub bearing. usually hear of this in the maytag neptunes when they get about 7-10 years old. either way top load or front laod your looking at alot of money for parts. in excess of 500 bucks just for 1 part. as most frontloads you have to purchase a new outter tub to get the tub bearing. would start looking for a new washer if it was me.
This is a mis-direction. I was informed that I needed to reinforce my floor to reduce the vibration . The problem persisted. Then it turned into a loud roaring when the washer went into spin cycle. I have disassembled the machine to find out that the root of the problem was caused by a leak occuring where the inner tub's spline shaft goes through the bearing assembly in the back. the leak degraded the bearings to the point that caused the vibration to get worse and thus started a cycle of increasing distruction to the bearings untill the leak made its way onto and inside the electrical connectors for the stator. This shorted out the motherboard and totally distroys the machine to the point where the parts are more expensive to fix it then the machine is worth. To repair it you need to get the service manual to find out how to take it apart. After getting the inner and outter tub removed from the machine you need to totally dissemble the tubs so the rear outter tub that holds the bearings can be replaced. To troubleshoot if you have the same problem I had take the back plate off the washer and inspect the area at the bottom of the rotor. If you see any rust or water discoloration trails then start taking the machine apart before the motor shorts out the motherboard and kills the machine.
you would have to remove the outter shell run a jumper wire on your lid switch and run the machine and use a flashlight to see if it is leaking between the tub and tranny, also look where your drain pump mounts to the motor there is a seal there, and look at your outter tub sometimes they dry out and crack
no you dont have to take the machine apart all the time usually the machine will flush itself but you need to run a empty load of HOT water and detergent and bleach in rinse to help clean the outter tub