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The tub is leaking around the spin shaft - Maytag Washing Machines

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The bearing and the oil/water seal is faulty, you will need to remove the spindle ,and get the shaft assembly to remove the bearings and the seals.
this must plug the leak.

Posted on Aug 23, 2010

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1 Answer

What can cause noisy spin on wd960 hotpoint ?


bad bearings, seal leak let water in bearings
Tub seal leaking letting water get to tub bearings need shaft and bearings replaced. takes special tools

Aug 31, 2014 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

Maytag Performa washer drum turns with agitator. Also the brake doesn't stop the drum at end of cycle or when cover lifted.


The first thing to check is the clutch. It's supposed to lock the inner tub and drive the transmission (agitator) when the motor turns in one direction, and spin the tub when the motor turns in the other direction. It's also possible the agitator drive shaft coming out of the transmission and the concentric tub drive shaft are frozen together (worst case) - this is usually caused by a bad bearing seal allowing water to leak into the shaft.

Lifting the lid during the spin cycle should disconnect power to the motor - maybe what you see is the tub continuing to spin because the transmission is acting as a flywheel. Either that, or the lid switch actuator is not working properly.

Nov 27, 2010 | Washing Machines

3 Answers

Loud noise during spin cycle (Bravos washer) was told the bearing is pressed into the tub. Looking at parts list they show the "basket" and the "tub outer". Is the bearing in the "tub outer"?


Similar issue, lot of racket on final spin and was told only option was a $280 whole tub assembly. Dissasembled tub and removed bearings from shaft. Took to local bearing warehouse and got replacements for <$25. The small one was a Nachi Quest 6005-2NSE9 and the large one was 6006-2NSE9. It took me @ 4-6 hrs in total and had to work to get top bearing onto shaft but much more attractive option than replacement or whole tub. Extremely irritated with Maytag and will NOT give them another dime. A appliance less than 1.5 yr old should not have these issues - cheaply made. Is a shame as Maytag used to mean something, it meant quality but not anymore.

Feb 17, 2010 | Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Oily spots on clothes after washing, no oil or grease before washing, no hard water...where are the spots comming from. Did not happen with old washing machine


sounds like the seal at the base of the tub is allowing oil to leak from the bearing (that is allowing the tub to spin on the motor shaft.
Not much to do unless you are good with tools and can remove the tub and replace the seal. (This is sorta like the seal between the transmission and engine on a car, or around the main motor bearing)

Feb 03, 2010 | LG WM0642H

1 Answer

Has a squeek when it is in the spin cycle


mostly the motor problem  and other possible problem can be  that a bearing is bad.If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

May 08, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Noisey during spin


yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.


May 07, 2009 | LG WD-16115FD Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Noisy when spinning


The noise coming from this machine as it spins is due to -- If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2

May 07, 2009 | GE WJSR2070B Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Helpp


If you have removed the drive belt from the rear pulley and the inner spin basket does not spin freely, you either have a drum bearing seized up on you, or something binding between the spin basket (stainless steel tub) and the outer tub shell. First, you need to reach inside the wash tub with the washer empty. Place the palm of your hand at the 12 o'clock position and push straight up. There shouldn't be any play in the spin basket. If you can feel the basket wobble up and down, you have either a bearing problem, or a spin basket support (spider arm) broken on the back of the spin basket. If there is no play at all, you probably have something caught. Small articles of clothing can sometimes get pulled between the tubs and usually ends up around the support shaft in the rear. This will obstruct the basket from spinning freely and could eventually cause damage to the drive motor, spin basket and/or tub bearings. You can use the instructions for replacing a rear tub bearing that I have posted under my Tip and Tricks for instructions on how to disassemble and inspect the tub. The bearing may not be bad, but you still need to check to see if anything is binding the spin basket against the tub shell and inspect the spin basket supports. Unfortunately, you have to disassemble the washer to be able to inspect any of these items I mention. I hope this helps you.

Jul 25, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Spins really fast and loud and is leaking at bottom of tub where shaft goes in


buy a new washer .specifically a direct drive whirlpool,no belt. maytag washers are not what they use to be.

Jan 04, 2008 | Maytag Legacy Series Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Spin cycle...


Sounds like the spin tub mounting block is stripped to me. Remove agitator. Remove spanner nut holding spin tub to basket drive. The block is the aluminum piece joining the basket drive shaft. The aluminum block has two square indentions that sit down on two tabs formed on the basket drive shaft. The soft metal wears out on the block and the drive shaft isnt attached to the spin tub anymore. An easy way to test is remove agitator and put in spin. See if shaft spins but not tub spin.Let me know what you find

Dec 12, 2007 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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