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Proline PUF86W/86S makes lots of ice and frost . Door seal seems OK

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

alicantecoli
  • 22156 Answers

SOURCE: My 10 year old GE

yes some nice silicon to remake the seal is a ideal solution without stripping or buying new parts ,i would be inclined to try this first before i go any further

Posted on Nov 10, 2010

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Sub zero 532 fridge is not cooling porperly but freezer is fine


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If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Jul 09, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I woke up this morning to my refrigerator humming and not working. It is 5 years old. The freezer seems to be just fine. Help! It is stainless steal model PFSS5NFWASS


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If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Jun 13, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

We have water leaking from the back of the frige, coming from under the area where the copper tubing connects from the wall to the actual refrigerator. I can't identify exactly what's leaking. I doesn't...


This can be an auto defrost condition. If your fridge is auto defrost, what happens during the defrost mode, ice build up is heated (in the area immediately near the evaporator coils, not in the main area) . This ice becomes water and drains out via a small tube, typically at the back or bottom of the machine. This water normally goes into a pan under the fridge, and evaporates without the user being aware of it.

If anything causes excessive ice build up (opening the door too much, door seal leak, etc.) then you get too much water and the pan overfills and spills out.

I suggest that you remove the pan from under your fridge, clean it, and put it back, and test to see if yo actually have anything wrong, or not.

This leak would NOT be refrigerant, as you would cease cooling if so. it is all condensation, which is physics and normal...

Mar 20, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I have an Inglis fridge and when door is closed there is about a1/8 of a inch space between the seal at the top and fridge . Bottom seals properly


That can be caused by hardening of the bottom seal due to ice build up in the seal or the door hinges need adjusting by loosening the lower hinge and pulling it out slightly to compensate for the door seal.

Mar 05, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Whirlpool Refrigerator model ET18GKXHW0 0 I seem to have a problem with my defrost cycle. The fridge has warmed up over the last few days and there is frost buildup on the back of the freezer...


The defrost cycle is relative to the cooling coils and not the interior temprature. Frost showing up means air is leaking into the fridge... To resolve, you need to observe the cooling coils are free from buildup. it it the coils, usually under panels, that should be attracting the moisture, and the defrost cycle clears that buildup, and not any buildup in the main (user accessable) areas of the fridge....

Defrost timers are not too expensive, consider blindly changing that...but totally defrost the unit around the coils or you will never get past the issue.

Mar 02, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My Panasonic refrigerator NR-B420T is not cooling, however the freezer part still cooling.


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Since there is cooling on the freezer the fault can be the defrost timer. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Jan 05, 2011 | Panasonic Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

AMANA UPRIGHT FREEZER LEAKS WATER FROM THE DOOR


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Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Jan 14, 2010 | KitchenAid Architect II KBHS109SSS...

1 Answer

My refrigerator stopped working and will not come back on. It is a Jenn-Air Side by side purchased 4 years ago.


you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

Aug 24, 2009 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My proline st44 microwave just suddenly went dead. I?ve checked and changed all fuses on the microwave and leads. It comes back again and then goes dead again. The inside door mechanism seems to be intact...


ProLine ST44 950 Watts Microwave
Since this machine is only sold in the UK I do not have a picture to point you to.
The problem is probably a blown thermal fuse. This fuse is located inside the machine and is for detecting overheating and fires. Sometimes age will cause it to fail. It's generally located near the air vent outlet.
If you handy with fixing gadgets you can check it.
Unplug the machine and remove the cover.
You can take an ohmmeter and test it. If it shows open you can replace it. It may be soldered in I am not sure. You can get replacements at an appliance parts store or Radio Shack®. There may be conventional fuses inside so you can check them also.


If nothing else is wrong it might be a door switch problem.
Wear on the interlock causing the crowbar microswitch to short the line and blow
the internal line fuse. The interlock, required by law, contains 3
switches - one switch sends a door-open signal to the
microprocessor, one opens the line and the third crowbars (shorts)
the power leads to the magnetron. If the crowbar switch activates
before the line switch opens, the line fuse gets blown. Just toss the crowbar switch.

May 12, 2009 | Sharp R-242 Microwave Oven

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