Washer trips breaker when starting spin cycle.
I have removed and checked the pump for any debris that may be blocking the pump from operating...nothing found.
I'm trying to find the fuse to see if it needs to be replaced. Of course the manual that came with the washer has no diagram to show me where to find it and I'm unable to locate this information on the Kenmore site.
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Will the tub spin if you move it by hand? A motor will usually only draw excessive amperage if it cannot move easily... Also, take a look at the terminal block where the power cord attaches to the machine for burnt connections, a bad connection can cause a breaker to trip, same as a 'dead' short. Terminal Block WPW10245259
The washer tripped the breaker once and after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
The very likely reason the breaker trips only on spin is because the tub bearing is locked up on the washer since it is locked up its causing way excessive friction at the motor which causes the breaker to trip.Can you rotate the tub by hand or does it seem really hard to rotate by hand indicating that the tub is ceased up due to the tub bearing??
If your Frigidaire washingmachine
started spinning, but then stopped, verify that the power cord is still
connected to the outlet. See if the outlet blew by plugging in a
different appliance into the outlet. See if you blew a fuse. A blown
fuse usually is either black or has broken wires. Replace the fuse. If
you have a circuit breaker instead of a fuse box, reset the circuit
breaker if it's been tripped. Check the lid switch, which is located
inside the main housing of the washing machine, near the door frame. If
the switch is burned out, order a new part from a Frigidaire parts
The pump's sole responsibility
is to remove water during the spin cycle. If the pump isn't working
properly, see if it's clogged with debris or clothing. Use needle-nose
pliers to remove these items. Check the pump pulley, which is connected
to the pump. This component must move freely for the pump to work. If it
won't turn, purchase a new pump pulley since you can't usually fix this
Check the door latch assembly if
the door isn't closing correctly. If any of these components are
broken, order a new part from a Frigidaire parts dealer. If you do not,
won't start spinning since it believes the door isn't closed. Your
Frigidaire washing machine won't start the spin cycle until the lid or
door is closed. Always close the lid, and remove any items preventing
the lid from fully closing. Always close the dispenser drawer.
Never over- or under-load your
washing machine. Your Frigidaire washer may not enter the spin cycle if
the load is too large, since this can damage the washing machine. Remove
a few pieces of clothing. If the load is too small, add a few similar
items to the washing machine. Check the internal belt, drive motor and
motor coupling. If any of these components are broken or very worn, they
may not work properly, preventing the washer from entering the spin
cycle. Order replacement parts from a parts dealer. Check the tub and
basket bearings, and get new ones if the current ones have broken
components or are defective.
Do you mean the houses circuit breaker? If so, WHEN in the cycle does it blow the circuit breaker? WHEN it trips will tell you what to look at. I.E. If the circuit breaker trips during the fill cycle then it would be the walter inlet valve or the timer in the control panel; if it trips as soon as it is in the agitator cycle - then the motor or transmission; if it trips in the spin cycle - then the drain pump or transmission or control panel.
Not the transmission. The motor could be stalled by a defective transmission, but the motor would trip off on it's own internal long before the home breaker.
Sounds like a short in the motor itself. But ......
There is Murphy's law.
Your home breaker might have become so weak, it IS the problem.
You really need an amp probe to check the washers draw, at the circuit breaker panel.
If you cannot do that and are comfortable dealing with electrical, you can swap equal value breakers, to be sure.
Check to see if it is a pump problem or a transmission problem. First remove both belts see if all the pullys turn freely. if the pump has a tight feel check inside pump for a item jammed in it.look for transmission oil on floor or belts if oil is present transmmision if probably going.ALSO check at the top of the tubs for anything stuk in between tubs.