Question about Poulan Pro Pp125 25cc Gas Straight Shaft Attachment Capable String Trimmer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a poulanpro gas
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Jul 17, 2011
Remove the tube that holds the flex drive from the end of the crankshaft. Lossen and remove the front cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carb. Remove the kill switch wire from the coil module. Remove clutch housing. Remove clutch, Remove flywheel. The recoil unit mates with the bottom of the flywheel and all the aforementioned parts are on the front side of the engine's crankshaft. Once you get the recoil unit off, you remove the old cord and turn the unit several times to "preload" tension on it. Insert the new cord into the guide holes and tie knots to lock it in place. The pull handle must be attatched too or when you let the recoil draw in the new rope, it will keep going and all tension will be lost. Reassemble all the above and good luck!
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Posted on Aug 31, 2010
Try a couple of my Tips out. They will solve your problem:
Posted on Aug 04, 2011
Testimonial: "I really appreciate your help--Your suggestionswere very helpful. "
I found the manual for this model weed eater, according to the manual the mixture...
and I quote "This engine is certified to operate on unleaded gasoline. Before operation, gasoline
must be mixed with a good quality synthetic 2-cycle air cooled engine oil designed to be
mixed at a Ratio of 40:1 ...." and I quote once more from the manual "Helpful Tip. To obtain
correct oil mix ration, pour 3.2 ounces of 2 cycle synthetic oil into one gallon of fresh gas."
Hope that helps,
If you like I can send the manual via email if you need it.
:) happy weed thrashing
Posted on Aug 12, 2011
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