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Slow leak from what appears to be some kind of adjustment screw on top of pump , solution to stop leak

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This is probably just the plug that is used to prime the pump if it looses it's prime, but I can't be positive since your description is a bit vague. I suppose that if you thought it adjusted something that you would be reluctant to just tighten it. Go ahead and tighten it. If it still leaks, then do the following:
Get some teflon tape (ask for it in the plumbing section at home improvement store or hardware store - $2 or less) Get a helper (a child will do). Turn off the power to the pump. Turn on the water at the kitchen sink until it stops running, then turn it off again. Now remove the leaking screw. Some water will come rushing out, but have your helper push his/her thumb over the hole (don't put a small finger IN the hole). Wrap the teflon tape around the screw in a clockwise direction as viewed from the bottom of the screw. Wrap about 5 layers, nice and snug. Don't leave a loose end that will dangle from the bottom of the screw. Put the screw back in the hole, nice and tight. Good luck, Al K

Posted on Aug 23, 2010


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My water heater is very slow to warm water to take a shower with. I cannot find the manual for it, and have no experience adjusting a heater. Heard am supposed to drain the heater at times need advice

first im going to assume its an electric model , as this is what ill describe on how to adjust and repair .

electric water heaters have two sets of heaters inside them , one that maintains a water heat temp and one that heats the incoming water (sometimes refered to as instant )

looking on sideof heater there should be two covers , one towards top and one kinda at the bottom , the cover at top can be removed to expose the instant water heat temp , now care needs to be taken here as power is exposed and present , looking inside here should reveal a round thing with two screws on it , kinda looks lke a large bolt with two screws on it , this is the heater coil , and just next to it a rectangular thing with six screws on it this is the thermostat , if should have a tiny dial on it and be marked off in degress numbers , this dial should be set 10 to 20 higher than bottom heater (under bottom cover exact same thing there .) if not use plastic knife (table ware ) NOt metal to turn setting till this is achieved , this is how to adjust it , but by your description I suspect one of your heaters has gone open and not heating anymore , they do sell simple kits to repair your own heater and there not expensive less than fifty bucks and most times can be done by owner (follow instructions to letter ) or your in for a mess or worse

and yes once a year you should drain off a few buckets of water from bottom tap to keep sediments from damaging heaters

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1 Answer

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Presumably you are referring to a water leak - not gas. The pooled water could be condensate from a "sweating" pipe but, depending upon the age of the heater, it may be time to replace it

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My anode rod, and dip tube and t& P tube relief gasket is leaking

Copy following link for general troubleshoot:
Then add a comment and let's get the problem solved.

Anode rod is either connected to hot-water nipple, or installed in separate port located top of tank. Anode stops water heater tank from rusting.
Dip tube is a plastic tube that is connected to cold water nipple and extends to bottom of tank so cold water always enters tank bottom.
TP valve is brass safety valve that is screwed into a port located on top of tank, or located on side of tank, and will release water when pressure or temperature exceed rating of TP.

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besides the cartridge, the small brass screw/valve and its seat can cause this leak

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This water heater has two elements, correct?? Well how do you get them out?

The first thing to do is shut off power supply to the heater. Then while water is still on hook up garden hose to drain valve on bottom of heater. Place hose to floor drain or some other location for safe drainage. Open drain valve and if it starts draining at a good rate then shut water supply valve off to heater. You will want to open hot side of closest faucet to prevent vacumn which will slow or stop draining. After heater is done draining shut off drain valve and faucet . Remove the cover plates on top and bottpm of heater. Usually four small screws. Locate heating elements and disconnect wiring,label if you need to for reinstallation. There are two kinds of heating elements,one is held in place with 4 hex head bolts,and the other is screwed in. If yours has the bolts carefully remove to avoid breaking bolts.Then just pull out to remove To reinstall there will be a new rubber gasket with element, fit it in place and insert element back in heater. Reconnect wires. If there are no bolts apparent then the element screws into heater. You will need a pipe wrench or large wrench to remove the element. The same thing with this element is that it should have a new rubber gasket. Put gasket in place and wrap threads with 5 to 6 wraps of teflon tape. Install element and tighten snugly. Connect wires,refill with water and check for leaks. If no leaks then turn power back on. Put cover plates back on and you're done. I hope this helps you. Thanks

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The pressure tank psi may be too high. To set it you get the system to pressure up and stop then check that water pressure. Whatever that is, is what the tank should be set at. Too much air pressure and the water pressure will suddenly drop before the pump kicks in.
To set the tank properly turn off the pump, drain all water pressure, then set the air pressure in the tank to the same as the water pressure was. Turn it back on and check again.

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Water pump cycles to often. When pump turns on, pressure gauge shoots up to 50 lbs right away without pumping much water.

Sounds like a well fed system with a pressure tank that has lost its air charge. Check for a water tank with a tire pressure type stem fitting, should also have a pressure gauge. Most newer tanks have a rubber diaphram inside to keep the air and water from mixing, but a lot of older ones don't and the newer ones will develope a leak that will produce the simpoms you describe. Try adding a few pounds of air pressure to the top of the tank and check for leaks. Warning: Compressed air can escape explosivly if the tank is badly rusted out but if your water pressure goes to 50# without the tank leaking, it should be safe to add up to 25# of air. The air charges the water system and allows the pump to shut off until enough water is used to lower the pressure back to set points on the control switch. It's not a good idea to adjust the set points on the switch unless all parts in the system have been checked for safety to the new pressures.

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I have water leaking from the bottom of my waterheater PE50T9A

It is possible that the water heater has a leak at the bottom. They eventually rust out. The valve should be removed if it is leaking and you should replace it. They are cheap. Be sure to use teflon tape to seal it back up

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1 Answer

Hot water heater

Absolutely no hot water indicates the top element or thermostat on the heater. Check to make sure that you have 240 volts on the top two terminals of the top thermostat. If you do then check the top element for voltage. It should also read 240 volts between the two screws. If you have 240 volts there shut off the power, drain the heater to a point below the top element and change the top element. When the element is installed turn your WATER back on and let the air bleed out of several hot faucets in the house. When the faucets stop spitting air you can turn them off. Check for leaks around the element. If you have no leaks turn the power back on the the heater and replace the covers.

That should get you 'back in hot water' in two hours.


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