Question about Westinghouse Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.
Posted on Feb 26, 2010
Testimonial: "This advise seems right on. Thanks for your fast and detailed advise. Steve"
Either the temperature sensor has a problem (shorted so the control thinks the oven is colder than the actual temp) or a relay feeding the bake or broil element is welded shut and causing one of the elements to stay on. If the elements are still heating when the "ON" indicator is NOT lit, then you have a welded relay. You need the control board repaired.
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
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