SOURCE: fan for amana fridge
Not sure of the description of the fault. If you are saying that the internal fan will not run but that you have put a power supply to it and it has run, it could be a number of possibilities... You described moving the cabinet. It is highly possible that a pipe or part of the refrigeration system has been damaged in the move and caused a loss of gas. If you remove the back panel to expose the evaporator (cold coil), and turn the system on, after 5 to 10 mins you should see a frost build up over the whole of the coil. If you dont then you probably have a leak. Result call a fridge guy. Leaks can vary in cost and is entirely dependent on where the leak is located and how long it takes to find it. If it does freeze the whole coil then you may well have a problem with the defrost heater or defrost thermostat. Both of which need to be intact in order to provide a neutral supply to the fan motor. You can (IF COMPETENT) check that you have resistance across both of these elements. If you have an open circuit on either then that is your problem. (PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT HAS TO BE BELOW 0'C IN ORDER TO HAVE ZERO RESISTANCE ACROSS IT...I.E. COIL COLD). Hope this is of some help.
SOURCE: WHIRLPOOL MICROWAVE GIVING F-7 CODE
hello sir
you are right magnetron is fully interrupted.......
but tell me
!. do you want to repair machine( 4 sec problem)
2. do you want to buy inverter , magnetron
please tell i am ready to help you sir
I believe that is a microcomputer board failure. You will have to replace this board. Website below.
I have gotten parts from "repairclinic" on line and they worked fine. I saved $600 on the last repair of an oven. Good luck.
or sir you can find and fix each and every type of code error
http://www.applianceaid.com/micro_faultcodes.html#WLP
SOURCE: fridgedaire side by side fan working, compressor hot, refridgerator and freezer not cooling
.thanks for your question i would try a hard, to start re lay on it after its cooled down. it might just do the trick. the appliance doc
SOURCE: Turn signals dont work headlights dont dim heater fan doesnt work
Did all these problems happen all at one time?? If so you may have a bad body ground. Try running a electrical wire from the (-) negative side of the battery to the body and see if this works. Be sure this wire is to a place with no paint as low voltage electricity will not flow through paint.
A). If not try replacing the turn signal flasher for the turn signal problem. This is usually the culprit and it's easiest and cheapest to replace. The turn signal flasher will be found under the driver side dash next to the hazard flasher. Turn the hazard flasher one to locate it. If you want try swapping the turn signal flasher with the hazard flasher to see if this fixes it. They are the same style flasher.
If this doesn't work you may a faulty turn signal switch or some wiring issues.
B). It could as simple as the head lights bulbs need to be replaced, it's rare but I have seen when both bulbs blew at or near the same time. If your able check the voltage at the head sockets.
C). Could be a bad blower motor or switch. I'm not sure if these models have a resistor block or not. The resister block controls the electrical current going to blower motor which controls the speed of the blower fan.
SOURCE: 1998 ford mustang radiator cooing fan wont come on
Check the fluid level in the radiator - after it cools down !
It sounds like you should replace the temperature sensor that controls the fan. This is usually located in the radiator and has electrical wires connected to it. Trace the wires from the radiator fan ( not the air conditioner fan!) to the sensor.
If the radiator is aluminum you may need special anti-freeze to prevent damage.
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