Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the problem disappears (for a while) when the freezer reaches 32F, then I know what the problem is.
The GE Profile refrigerators (and likely other models as well) often don't defrost properly, especially in humid climates. So they can develop ice buildup internally, especially if the air vents at the back of the freezer are blocked by frozen food. Once that happens, that ice can interfere with the cold air circulation booster fan that runs when the freezer temperature is too warm. Then you get a LOUD buzzing noise from the fan blades, as they bang into the ice.
The immediate "solution" is to be sure nothing blocks the air vents, and then to melt the ice that interferes with the fan. You can turn the fridge off for a while (with the food removed so it doesn't spoil), and/or get a hair dryer and heat the inside back of the freezer, until the ice melts and falls away from the fan. (Just be careful not to block the nozzle of the hair dryer, or it may burn out from overheating!)
But the ultimate solution is to buy another refrigerator, one that is NOT a GE! And that makes me sad, because GE used to make GREAT refrigerators. My last GE refrigerator is nearly 20 years old, and still works well, and it does so QUIETLY.
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
In most cases it is the Defrost timer circuit. One of three things the Defrost time (most likely) it allows the cooling for a 6 to 10 hour period and the defrosting for 10 to 30 minutes to remove ice buildup, ICE BUILDUP is the main problem as it restrict air flow, the cooling air circulation through the system. You see cool air only comes in the freezer side and passes through vents (pass ways) to the refrigerator side. Ice buildup in the freezer side inhibits cooling air to the refrigerator side. You think the freezer is working, but it is only cooler because there is ice in there that you can't see. The Terminator (a LIMIT switch) opens the defrost circuit if the defrost heater gets too hot (second likely) the next is the Heater which heats for those 10 to 30 minutes to melt the ice buildup (least likely) no matter the Unit you have they all have this circuit... Hope this helps, I'm Tango
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
SOURCE: My refrigerator is a GE Monogram ZISS480NRGSS S/N SH031008. The temperature in both the freezer and the fresh food sides increased and did not go down. A technician came in and changed a valve (I do n
We need to have a look at the main control board part number WRO2X11838 Tell me if the compressor is running while no cooling or if stopped. Unplug refrigerator and see if the top of compressor is too hot to keep you hand on. My drawing show the control bord in the area of the compressor and inside a box. Let me know if it has burn marks on both sides. Thanks, Let me know, Sea Breeze
Posted on May 21, 2009
I gather your compression cycles on because you have SOME cooling. Your refrigerator should NOT be warmer than 40 F - the range is usually 34~40F, ideal is 36F - anything warmer than 40F is no good.
For the condenser, older models have the condensers at the BACK of the fridge - make sure you have proper clearance at the back of the fridge - newer refrigerators have the coils at the BOTTOM of the fridge into an open space - you cannot completly clean those with a vacuum - you will need to purchase a condenser cleaning brush long enough and allowing you ewasily reach them from under your fridge - you can usually locate those in your hardware store or go to your local appliance store parts center and see if they have it.
As to being low on freon - you never get low on freon, it's a sealed system and the coolant does not run out - you will only need a recharge if you have a sealed system leak - rare but it can happen - you will have to get service to locate the leak first, they have the equipment for that, fix it and then recharge - this is NOT something you can do yourself.
You could try removing the back panel of your freezer and locate the cooling coils under the evap fan - are these over frosted (evenly), then you have a defrost timer problem, you will need to service the defrost timer control and its components. If only part of the coils are frosted, example to the left and the rest is frost free this is a symptom of a leak in the system........either way you will have to get your unit serviced considering it's been 15 years and over - the average life cycle of a compressor is 10 years - some can last longer, and it seems newer ones last much less too - after all these years time to get it serviced - and you better hope it's not the compressor it will cost you ! I hope it's nothing major -and as simple as a defrost timer control board - you can rule that out yourself by shutting down and defrosting manually using a hairdryer (assuming your coils are completly frosted up) if you run fridge and it cools, you got your problem......defrost control! Otherwise partially frosted my bets would go on leak...... You might want to check other sources of cold air leaks through poor gaskets on your doors using the dollar bill method and pulling looking for some resistence.
if all of the above fails and your compressor is bad, it's time for a new energy efficient refrigerator - a compressor that old will cost you at least $400 + the service call + the hourly rate.......
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
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