Question about Moen 103459 Drain Pop-UP Plug

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I have a problem with my new drain leaking underneath the ball joint. (not out of the ball joint ) .water keeps beading out where the crome pipe reduces into the rest of the rougher looking metal. I cant picture being able to seal that area? is this a factory sealed joint?

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Get it clean and dry... then wipe a good quality silicone caulk around the jiont and let it dry completely...this will seal that joint for you...


Posted on Aug 23, 2010


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Remove bathroom sink flange

Turn off the water valves at the back of the sink and place a bucket underneath the drain to catch any water that may run out.
2 Loosen the nuts that hold together the drain tailpiece and the P-trap with a wrench. Disconnect the the two pieces.
3 Unscrew the drain tailpiece from the drain flange. Depending on how the drain flange is held in place, you may need to hold it down firmly as you twist the tailpiece below. Remove the tailpiece and set it aside.
4 Remove the old drain flange. It may come straight out after the tailpiece is removed, or it may be held in place with putty or silicone. If it is held in place tightly, grasp the edge with a pair of pliers and pull until it comes free.
5 Wipe down the sink area that was underneath the old flange. If the metal was discoloring or rusting, clean the porcelain well and dry it to keep the new flange clean.
6 Apply a thin bead of silicone caulk to the underside of the new flange. Push the new flange into the drain hole in the sink.
7 Push the drain tailpiece back up into the sink's drain from below and screw it into the flange tightly. Use a wrench to tighten it up securely.
8 Reconnect the P-trap to the tailpiece and tighten the nuts that hold it in place. Turn on the water supply to the sink and run water through the pipes to ensure everything is securely fastened.
Things You Will Need
  • Bucket
  • Pliers
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Silicone caulk
Duplex Steel flanges Duplex Stainless Steel Flanges Manufacturers Suppliers Instinox

Feb 12, 2012 | Kohler Plumbing


Stop water to sweat (solder) water line.

If you have any water, just a trickle, a occasional drip in your waterline near were you need to sweat(solder) the pipe together, your in big trouble if you have no experience in dealing with this problem. As you heat the copper pipe or brass with your torch the water turns to steam actually keeping the temperature of the pipe below the melting point of the solder.

Safety First
Always have a fire extinguisher near by. Remove any materials from behind or around your work area that are easily ignitable, like insulation. In tight areas, use a spray bottle of water to soak any surrounding wood, and if possible use a heat guard, like sheet metal.

What you'll need, Ball valve, pen, (Torch-Mapp Gas), flux, sand-cloth, solder, channel locks and a piece or two of white bread, yes bread, your pipes are hungry.

First thing is to prep everything. Clean your ball valve and pipe end with sand-cloth, make it nice and shiny. Flux ball valve. Remove crust from bread, do not crush or roll bread up into a ball. We want the bread to remain porase to soak up and slow down the flow of water to your joint, water is pulled towards the heat source.

The pipe will have some flex to it depending on if it is secured tightly near by the joint or not, if you can, pull down slightly, not to hard or you may break a good joint down the line, try and get as much of that water out as possible. Make sure all faucets, spickets and shower valves are completely open, if not that will create a finger over the straw effect.

Now heat further back the line to draw the water away from end. Put pieces of bread in pipe, creating a 6" to 10" long sponge, "Bread must not be rolled up or crushed" push it lightly back with finger or pen. Wipe off any bread crumbs from your already cleaned pipe end and flux, put ball valve on, leave valve open. heat ball valve were the copper end has entered. Heat rises, so work from the bottom as you heat the fitting. The faster your able to heat the joint, the more likely you'll be successful. Do not have two people with two torches, you may burn each others face off, not advised. !!!Always be aware of were your lit torch is pointing!!!

Having an extra set of hands in this frustrating time will make things much easier. The trick is to get the water away long enough to sweat the pipe, since you didn't roll the bread up, it will flush out easily when you turn the water back on, Always turn the main valve back on slowly.This is the cheap version of the JET-SWET. Good Luck.

Other Tips: 8c0723a.jpg 794c14c.jpg

on Jun 30, 2010 | Plumbing


Sweat soldering a joint with dripping water

How many times have you tried to sweat solder a joint in the basement which leaks when you turn the water on? The problem is most likely that there was some water in the pipe which cools the joint locally as the water turns to steam. Here's a tip to keep the joint dry.

Let the pipes drain for 10 or 15 minutes. You will notice that there is still some water dripping from the pipe. The trick here is to stop that water from trickling down from upstairs and ruining the solder process. Go to the kitchen and get a slice of that white pap bread that most American households have and feed to their kids. Don't use good whole grain bread! Save that for the kids.

Now take the slice of white bread, remove the crusts so there is nothing left but the white pap. now ball it up and roll it between your palms. Take the ball of sticky white bread and jam it into the end of the pipe. Use a dowel which is almost the size of the pipe to force it about six inches into the pipe. This will block the water from running down into your joint. Finish sweat soldering the joint, then go to the nearest faucet, remove any screen-type strainers, and turn the water on at the meter and at the faucet. You will see that wad of dough come plopping out of the faucet and down the drain where all white pap bread should go anyways! Check the joint and you will find a perfect solder job, no leaks!!!

on Mar 31, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer


Sinks are held in two ways:
1) Clips under the sink hold it to countertop.
2) Adhesive caulk.

Consult installer who will know exactly what adhesive is correct for your top.
And what procedure will minimize clean-up and not damage top.

To do this yourself:
Take photos of everything before starting so you know how it goes back.
Dry off countertop and then let dry for couple hours, then outline location of sink with masking tape.
This will help you reinstall sink in exact location and minimize caulk clean-up after smoothing out caulk bead with wet finger when sink goes back in.
We use wet/damp sponge to help caulk >> here's how it works: Wet finger on sponge, smooth caulk short ways with finger, wipe excess on paper towel, wet finger again, repeat slowly around sink. Remove tape immediately after caulk is smoothed.

Disconnect tubular drains at P-trap.
Disconnect disposal from sink basket and lay down inside cabinet.
Or you can leave disposal connected to sink, if you're strong enough to lift sink and disposal together. In that case, disconnect electric wire and dishwasher tube.
Turn off water. Disconnect supply lines at shut off.

Lift out sink.
Use pry bar and pry against wood paint stick.
Use bottle jack or car jack from underneath, and go real slow.
Have cardboard boxes where you can set sink up off floor.
Setting sink up will let you work on heavy sink and won't scratch floor.
Remove old caulk with single-edge razor blade, or scraper. Go slow not to scratch anything.

Apply new, continuous bead of caulk and set sink in place.
Sink will have to be held tightly by someone while working underneath.
Attaching disposal to sink basket without moving sink will the challenge.

Attach water supply lines, turn on water and check there are no leaks.
Lift disposal into place and attach with ring... leave attachment ring bit loose until tubular p-trap is aligned.

Any tubular pipes that were moved must be taken apart, cleaned and reassembled.
Rubber washers are replaced with new ones.
Plastic washers are cleaned and re-used. Tapered end of plastic washer goes away from nut.
We use rectorseal on all tubular joints when re-assembling under-sink pipes.
Smear it all over each washer and p-trap joint before attaching nut.


Dec 21, 2010 | Granite Home

1 Answer

Over flow leaks constantly after 8 years, never done this before. What should we do?

As long as the heater is still working good and not leaking I would just replace the Temperature and pressure relief valve. To do this turn control knob on gas valve from on to pilot. This will maintain pilot so you won't have to relight later while keeping the burner from firing while you are replaceing t&p valve. Turn off water supply on cold water supply to water heater.If this valve won't work or you don't have one shut off supply to house. Do not attempt to remove t&p valve until you are sure water is off. Open hot water on faucet close to heater and drain a few gallons from water heater drain valve. Purchase new t&p valve at hardware store. They are pretty standard 3/4 inch male pipe thread, 150 p.s.i. rated. Use teflon tape to seal pipe threads ,4-5 wraps at least or pipe joint compound to seal threads You will need a pipe wrench to remove old valve. Turn it counterclockwise to lossen then remove. Have new valve ready to go to minimize water loss. Be carefule as water will still be hot. Install new valve and tighten securly. Turn water back on and check for leaks. Also shut off faucet you opened. Once you are satisfied there are no leaks turn gas valve to on and bleed air from several places. I hope this helps you. Thanks.

Nov 26, 2010 | Rheem 50 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater...

1 Answer

I unclogged the GD by removing the pipes underneath and replaced them tightly. GD seems to be working fine now, but water is slowly leaking from underneath the GD! It appears to be leaking from the...

The leak comes from above where water comes out.

Turn off power before touching wet electrical appliance.

Put stopper in disposal.
Fill sink with water.
Check if water is getting through the putty seal at sink connection.

Next, check if water leaks only when dishwasher runs. Dishwasher drains into garbage disposal.

Last, check tailpiece where it attaches to side of garbage disposal. The tailpiece is usually sealed with a rubber washer. When washer is old, it gets deformed, and then it doesn't seal perfectly when put back.

I use rectorseal on all tubular pipe joints under the sink.
Works on both plastic and rubber washers.
It is gooey and sticky.
Brush it all over the washer, use plenty, then assemble pipes.
The rectorseal assures that joint will not leak.


Oct 25, 2010 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

1 Answer

Leaks water from back

this is not a water leak ! it is the humidity in the room which collects as water and drains out at the back.keep a bucket underneath or attach a drain pipe to the outlet .

May 31, 2010 | Goldstar WG8000 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Zanussi front loader leaking

Most likely you have a pump shaft seal leaking you can buy a new pump at this site. You may remove the pump and clean with pool muratic acid, but it is very caustic you would have to put pump in the acid bath in a metal pan that you don't mind using it and it will eat all the organic buildup from the pump. However it may leak worse as the organic material may keep it from leaking too much. So I suggest you use the pump, if you use mueratic acid it is highly toxic so read directions on using it and were air mask and rubber gloves while using it then rinse off with clean water. You should put water hose in the drain pipe and tunrn on the water to test the drain pipe as well. this will make sure the drain pipe is fine. Look at the hoses near the clamps as this is where holes develop on the water pump hoses.

Sep 05, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water leaking from underneath pipe connector to the dishwasher

Check the following:

* Loose or mis-positioned hose clamp at the drain spur connection

* Rotted or brittle hose

* Split hose

* Cracked joint at the drain spur connection or split drain spur fitting

Apr 27, 2009 | General Electric Dishwasher Timer

1 Answer

My Daewoo DSB 091L unit has started to drip condensate from the casing joint underneath the front drainage tray. I have cleaned the blocked drain pipe and proved the water drains away. The condensate drip...

Make sure that the flexible pipe is securely connected to the drainpan, it can come adrift and cause leaking. The way to check this is to make sure everything is dried out completely. Then open the front grill and carefully pour water so that it goes only into the drip pan. Pour slowly so that you do not overflow the pan. If water is coming out on the outside and you have no leaks on the inside, then you can rule out the perished or disconnected drainpipe theory. In this case your unit may be short of refrigerant causing excessive run time and a freeze up of the evaporator.

Mar 24, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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