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I have an Excell pressure washer XL2500. I need 1 white 40 degree nozzle, and 1 rubber footing with nut and bolt for the engine frame/ wheel assembly. Can you help me?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: pressure washer won't build pressure

The problem sounds like its in the handle.. trigger mechinism

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

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Monster80
  • 460 Answers

SOURCE: pressure washer has no pressure

Try and back flush the washer..Take spay nozzle off washer and back flush with hose...If any kind of sand or deposits get into the Pump it will hold pressure valve open not letting it build pressure.after back flushing hook back up washer and before you put spar nozzle back on or start washer turn water on and make sure all air is out of washer..hook spray nozzle back up and hold it open with washer still off.when you see that there is no more air coming out of washer start it and you should have pressure.Hope this helps you and have a great day!!

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: pressure washer stalls out when wand nozzle is released

common for not starting unless trigger engaged as you are turning the pump as well as engine creating pressure,as for stalling pump has unloader valve which is probably in need of grease(use good silicone grease)this allows water to ciculate when trigger released.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

SOURCE: Honda excell pressure washer does not have pressure

if the machine is running on suction, ie sucking out of a barrel there may be an air leak on the suction hose or pump. it will pull air easier than pulling water .

put the machine under mains water pressure, hose pipe straight from tap to pump.
check all around the pump and inlet pipes for leaks.
if water leaking this needs rectifiying for it to work on suction.
run the pressure washer while on mains pressure with the hose on, does this make a difference?

if not then probably the unloader is stuck in the pump head. remove unloader , clean and replace it
parts breakdowns are available on the internet for your machine.

possibly valves stuck, or the valve springs have broken, seen this quite few times on these machines. if so replace springs .

These sort of machines do not last very long anyway, about 50 hours use if your lucky.

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

  • 583 Answers

SOURCE: excell vr2500 pressure washer ,no pressure

check the water filter ---high pressurehose must have bbackpressure to develop pressure so disconecting it wont acheive ,much ,if you have agood water supply ,oil in the pump--- adjust pressure by srewing the brass fitting that the pressure hose attachesto, down that is clock wise a couple of turns or so and see if that makes a difference if not seals in the pumpmay be gone tha t should show by water in the oil

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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1 Answer

How do you replace the rack and opinion on a 92 cutlass ceira


Here you are - power rack & pinion.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1
  1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
  5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
  6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.
  1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly
  1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.
To install:
  1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Install the heat shield.
  3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
  4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
  5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
  6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
  8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2.2L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
  2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
  3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.
  1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
  3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Remove the support fixture.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
  3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
  8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
  2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
  5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
  7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
  8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  13. Lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the support fixture.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

25936701-ge4w2xkagkibehwv23tkbbb2-2-0.gif

Nov 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace rack an pinion cutlass ciera 1992


You aren't saying what engine is in it, or whether it is manual or power steering. Here is the R/R procedure for power steering rack for all engine sizes.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1
  1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
  5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
  6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.
  1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly
  1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.
To install:
  1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Install the heat shield.
  3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
  4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
  5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
  6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
  8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2.2L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
  2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
  3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.
  1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
  3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Remove the support fixture.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
  3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
  8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
  2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
  5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
  7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
  8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  13. Lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the support fixture.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

25936687-ge4w2xkagkibehwv23tkbbb2-2-0.gif

Nov 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pickup of Discover 135 DTS-I


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Wheels and/or tires worn or damaged.
2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing incorrect/poorly tuned engine.
7. Internal engine problem/flywheels shift.
8. Broken frame.
9. Stabilizer links worn or loose.
10. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
12. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Engine Vibration Testing Before and After Spark Plug Change
Scooter rear wheel vibration problem
http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=158
BAJAJ DISCOVER 135 PARTS MANUAL CATALOG DOWNLOAD Download Manuals Technical
Bajaj Discover 135

Feb 14, 2014 | 2010 Bajaj Discover 135 DTSi

1 Answer

What are the torque specs for the head bolts on my 2001 V92C?


10mm nuts are 40 foot pounds. 8mm nuts are 18 foot pounds. You need to torque all the nuts to 10 foot pounds to start, then torque the 10mm nuts to 20 foot pounds, then 30 foot pounds, and then 40 foot pounds. Retorque all the 10 mm nuts to 40 foot pounds and then retorque the 8mm nuts to 18 foot pounds. Torque the bolts in a criss-cross pattern.

Oct 27, 2013 | Victory V92 Cruiser Motorcycles

1 Answer

How to replace wheels on Excell VR2522 pressure washer


Anon, The wheel is probably held on by a push nut/cap. The easy way to remove is to cut through the cap retainer with a dremel tool part way and pry off with screw driver, these caps are not normally reusable after removal, check hardware store for replacement.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
DeVilbiss Excell VR2522 Type 0 Gas Pressure Washer Parts
Remove CM 1200 Lawn Mower Wheel Retainer Clip on Lawn Mower Wagon Carriage...
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130208122204AAcj7mW

Jan 28, 2013 | Garden

1 Answer

Where to install thermal relief valve


It should be the last threaded hole right before the water enters the pump itself, on the low pressure ( inlet) side, most pumps have 2 different size holes 90 degrees from each other, commonly 1/4 and 1/8 in.

Dec 13, 2012 | Honda Karcher G2400HH-R Pressure Washer

1 Answer

Missing rear axle. is there a way to replace? the company won't.


I had the same problem. I bought this scooter for my daughter at a flea market and the rear axle was gone, someone had tried to fix it with a bolt, but it was very unstable. Here is what I did and it has seemed to work well. This will cost you less that 10.00 at your nearest home improvement store.
You will need
1x - 5/16 x 8 hex bolt 1x - 5/16 nut 4x - 5/16 x 1 1/4 flat washers 2x - 1 1/4 hard rubber stoppers 1x - 3/8 drill bit & drill 1x - gorilla glue or lock tight
Ok... before we start let me tell you what all this is for and how it works. The way I assembled this was, hex bolt, 1 washer, wheel for scooter, 1 washer, 1 rubber stopper (Insert this into the metal tube on the back of the scooter, so that on the other side you will just have a bolt sticking thru) now, 1x rubber stopper, 1x washer, other scooter wheel, 1x washer, hex nut.
The rubber stoppers are the hardest part and the reason for them is to keep the bolt going thru the middle of the axle tube. This will help to eliminate the scooter from wobbling.
Now, if you have read this far here is how we did it in order.
1. Take both rubber stoppers and trim them with a kitchen knife so that they will fit into the metal tube on the back of the scooter securely. (do not push them all the way in yet)
2. Drill a hole thru the middle of both trimmed rubber stoppers with the drill and bit
3. Take your hex bolt and slide a washer on
4. Slide your 1st wheel on
5. Slide on a 2nd washer
6. push on the trimmed rubber stopper to where it meets the washer. (The wheel should be able to still spin pretty freely, If you think it is to tight just pull the rubber stopper up a bit)
7. Take this assembly and push it into one side of the metal tube on the back of the scooter (you want the rubber stopper to be and flush with the edge of the metal tube and you can)
8. Your hex bolt will be stick out of the other end of the tube, slide on the last rubber stopper try and work it into the tube as best you can.
9. slide on 3rd washer
10. Slide on last wheel
*At this point I put the scooter on its side and pushed down on the wheel to force the stopper into the tube
11. slide on 4th washer
12. screw on nut
*Now I found that if you put the nut on to tight the wheels would not turn, but if you left it loose it would fall off.
13. To fix the above issue we put some gorilla glue on the bolt threads and screwed the nut on, we would spin the back wheels until we were happy with the amount of tension on the wheel. We then put some more glue on the top of the nut to help hold it in place.
14. Let the glue dry
Thats how I fixed my daughters scooter. I am in NO WAY a professional or expert at this stuff. Just a dad trying to make his baby happy. Hope this works for you!

Jan 26, 2011 | Bravo Dora the Explorer 3 Wheel Scooter

1 Answer

Can you give me step by step instructions for installing the training wheels by bell


Somone else had a good answer:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100311194216AA1phl1

"Best Answer - Chosen by Voters
You really shouldn't be doing this unless you are able to work this out yourself, but in the interest of safety, here's how to do it:

Each stabilizer "side" has a wheel, an axle bolt, 2 nuts, and the frame. This means that in total you should have 2 wheels, 2 axle bolts, 4 nuts, and 2 frames. There may be some star washers as well.

1) Place the axle bolt through the wheel.
2) Thread one of the nuts on the axle bolt until it stops.
3) Put the axle through the frame. If there is a round washer, place it over the axle bolt next.
4) If there is a lockwasher, place it over the axle bolt.
5) Thread the other nut onto the axle bolt, then while holding the first nut, tighten the second one.
6) Install the assembly onto the bicycle.

Although you may be the handy type, I strongly suggest you take everything to a bike shop for correct assembly. Isn't your child worth it? Source(s): 30 years in the industry"

Jan 16, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

Instructions for bell riderz training wheels


Installing is easy if you take a look at the inside of the package! There are two nuts and a few washers on the screw that is used to hold the actual wheel. Make sure that you do not overtighten the first nut otherwise the wheel will not rotate freely. They appear sturdy enough. Only time will tell how much they will last!
Here is how to do the install:
1) Place the axle bolt through the wheel.
2) Thread one of the nuts on the axle bolt until it stops (use a flat washer here).
3) Put the axle through the frame. If there is a round washer, place it over the axle bolt next.
4) If there is a lockwasher, place it over the axle bolt.
5) Thread the other nut onto the axle bolt, then while holding the first nut, tighten the second one.
6) Install the assembly onto the bicycle.

Dec 25, 2010 | Cycling

2 Answers

Need to know cylinder head bolt torque specs


Head Bolt Torque For your 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (3.4L SFI DOHC): clearpixel.gif Foot pounds (Final torque) clearpixel.gif Note: Torque sequence --------- | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | --------- Step 1: torque in sequence to 33 Ft/Lbs Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque. clearpixel.gif clearpixel.gif clearpixel.gif Foot pounds (Final torque) clearpixel.gif Note: Torque sequence --------- | 8 4 1 5 | | 7 3 2 6 | front --------- of engine | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | Step 1: torque to 40 Ft/Lbs --------- Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.

Feb 07, 2009 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

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