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Yashica TL Electro X ,why is there a lever to move the mirror out of the way, when the shutter is released , I the the mirror moves out of the way anyway.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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It would seem this problem has frustrated other users, read this thread on

Posted on Jan 27, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Film Advance Will Not move

Hi,powerpe. The mirror release rod can be located in the bottom of the body once the plate has been removed.(there are three screws on the old k1000's) There is a gear train on the left side when viewed turned over.The mirror cockong rod is towards the rear and a little right of the main shaft.You might need to move a little silver pawl with a pin or micro driver then you can push the mirror **** in to release the reflex mirror.the mirror cocking rod is about 1/8" dia.Hope this helps

Posted on Apr 17, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: yashica electro 35 gs -

It defiantly needs a battery. The camera has an electromagnetic shutter relese. It took me a while to figure this one out on my own. I thought I had a hunk of junk on my hands.

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

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SOURCE: Minolta x370 camera, the shutter

if you are up to repairing the camera yourself, you may want to remove the film first but cutting it from the lock then rewinding it to the tube (make sure you are in a dark room)...

then move to the small article below...

from PointBreak:

The BIG Minolta Shutter Problem Fix Secret EXPOSED!

The Minolta X-Series have been infamous for having their shutters "stuck" and without the film advancing. The LEDS will light up correctly but the film just wouldn't plain advance when you hit the shutter release button. Frustrating to say the least..but alas..alll is not lost. This has been a very common problem and I'll tell you why.

The X-Series, and other possible makers, contains a/an electrolytical capacitor with 1000 hrs of working voltage. When the capacitor reaches its limit it may fail (bulge/corrode). Whether this was an intentional design concept by Minolta is unknown..yeah right! Basically these capacitors hold a small magnetic charge and that when you hit the shutter release it reverses polarity and allows the film to expose, advance, blah, blah, blah..

OK! What I'm going to explain here will save you anywhere from $10 - $200 (meaning you could buy this info. on Ebay or take your X370 to get fixed at a shop). Vendors on Ebay are hocking this info. from $5 and on up..some are actually bidding on this stuff..DON'T DO IT! They will tell you that it's impossible to locate their "product" which consists of new capacitors and the service/repair manual. Well it took some time and research but I have located everything you need so..

Here it is and ENJOY!

1. Download the X370 manuals from Cost: FREE!

2. Go to The part number for the capacitor for the Minolta X370 is: P954-ND (Panasonic P/N is ECE-A0GKS221). The actual spec. on the capacitor is: 4v 220uF @ 85 deg. C(entigrade) (6.3X5X2.5 mm).Cost: $7.00 (includes S/H, min. order was 10 pieces @ $2.00 and they charge $5 for S/H)

3. Unscrew the bottom of the camera (4 little screws) and locate the bad capacitor. It's probablu bulging or leaking.

4. If you don't have one, you need a soldering pen and some standard electrical solder. (Go to Radio Shack or any Hardware store)

5. Remove the old capacitor and then solder on a new capacitor. That's it!
if you have other question just lemme know.

Posted on Sep 19, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Shutter won't release

If the lighting is low and shutter speed is set for a long period of time its the function of the camera taking the picture. If it is a malfunction of the shutter take it in for cleaning you might have foriegn material stuck in your shutter mechanism

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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4 Answers

No shutter/film advance

Try to used a new film..

Let me know again..


Apr 22, 2008 | Minolta Maxxum 700si 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Re. Contax 167MT problem -- When the depth of field button is pressed the lens does not close down to the set aperture. Also when the shutter release button is pressed the lens does not close down. My two...

The 80s 167MT uses good old fashioned mechanical links between the camera body and lens. Remove the lens, and press the depth of field button. If you don't see the lever that connects the aperture control from in the camera body to the lens move, then something's obviouly broken in the camera body.

Nov 11, 2017 | Contax 167 MT 35mm SLR Camera

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The shutter is stuck...all I see is black

Your second curtain is not releasing the mirror to come down.
This happens with weak 2nd shutter curtain tension.
If the wind lever is stuck and the mirror does not come down then the mirror tension spring came off.

May 12, 2010 | Pentax K1000 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

The self timer lever is stuck in the activated position of my Yashica-D. Is there an easy solution?

If the shutter release does not activate your timer and release the shutter, it probly needs taken apart by a repair guy. They can free the timer, clean out the old dried up lubricant, put in fresh lubricant, adjust everything and return it to you...working.

Oct 27, 2009 | Photography

2 Answers

I have the mirror box lever problem in a spotmatic

Ok, the problem may well be the mirror charge latch. This is very commonly the cause of failure to wind or fire. The catch will be out of sync with the charging lever etc and so the mirror springs will not stay tensioned.

If it is, the cammera will be stuck with the shutter charged (Cocked) but will not fire because the mirror has not been properly primed. (The shutter is actually fired by the mirror. The shutter button actually releases the mirror.)

The locking arm keeps the main mirror spring tensioned until the closing shutter blind has fully closed. The blind roller engages with a gear which releases the

Remove the bottom cover. There is a long lever shiny arm engaging a crank-pin on winder gear extending to a point just below camera-right of the lens mount. It pivots on a large screw, and there is a largish wire spring which extends to engage a small hole in the end of a lever near the arm end, that dissapears into the camera.

The lever with the hole in it is the mirror charging arm, the long shiny lever pushes this towards the front of the camera to tension the mirror springs, when the film advance is operated.

Next to this is a shorter arm which extends over a gear at one end and is free at the other. This is the latch. The gear wheel engages a small pinion which is in fact the end of the blind roller for the closing curtain/blind. A peg on this gear strikes the other end of the latch to move it out the way and release the mirror tension after the shutter has finished, and this in trun resets the mirror, and releases the winder.

When the mirror is charged the mirror charging arm is held in the tensioned position by the 'free' end of the latch. If the shutter is ready to fire the charging arm should be pressing against the free end. If it isn't the camera will not fire.

To fix this it is easier if the shutter is fired. To do this first remove the large screw holding the long arm. Not forgetting the spring! There is a washer which must be removed too. Do not lose this it is important. This gets it out of the way. now push the charging arm towards camera front as far as it will go. You won't get it all the way, as the latch will be in the way, just as far as you can. If it isn't in the way, then this is not your problem!

Holding it in this position, press the shutter release. This should fire the shutter. If it does not fire then you may also have to remove the latch to allow you to push the arm forwards a little more. (In fact if you can hold the arm in the primed position you could replace the catch in the primed position. This is awkward though!)

When the shutter has fired the latch should move to the 'reset' position, allowing the charging arm to be pushed past it's end. If this is OK, you need to push the lever back to the reset postion. The mirror will remain in the up postion until you do this.

Now you can replace the long arm, again not forgetting the spring. The screw that holds that on has a shoulder, that the spring loops around, and the washer has a flat spot in the hole which means it has to be fitted in the right position. The end of the spring should poke through the mirror arm hole. The easiest way to reassemble this is to put the arm in, then fit the washer. Now place the spring loosely in position, and then put the screw in place loosley. This allows you to manuver the end of the sprion into the hole, You can then carefully tighten the screww. The washer has a tendency to become dislodged so you might have to try this a couple of times. (A blob of grease here can help keep the washer in place.)

If that's all OK then you should be able to wind and fire. If everything seems fine, check the screws are firm (Don't overtighten any!) and replace the bottom cover.

This is a very common fault, and is often caused by jarring the camera just at the wrong monent, but it can develop in an old camera (and they all are!) just due to wear. The latch has in fact changed in shape several times in the lifteime of this mechanism (and it was still in use in K1000's in 1997!) and is the mst common single cause of jams in these cameras.

A little lubrication can help. A spot of lighter fluid can be used to remove old oil and grease from the winder gear, the cocking arm pivot, anf the latch pivot. A tiny amount of grease can be applied to the slow moving pivots and contact points only. A tiny drop of watch oil can be used on the latch pivot. and the opeating peg, but no oil must get into the axle or teeth of the gear itself. This can cause uneven and erratic running of the curtain.

Jan 28, 2009 | Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

35mm Camera - can't use shutter speed 60/125???

No, it is not the self timer. The shutter may need lubrication and adjustment. What is happening is that the shutter is not moving well enough to trip the mirror back down after the exposure. Advancing it to the next shot resets this. Another thing to check is the foam pad that dampens the mirror. The foam does degrade over time and becomes sticky, trapping the mirror like glue

Mar 06, 2008 | Cameras

1 Answer

Film Advance Will Not move

Hi,powerpe. The mirror release rod can be located in the bottom of the body once the plate has been removed.(there are three screws on the old k1000's) There is a gear train on the left side when viewed turned over.The mirror cockong rod is towards the rear and a little right of the main shaft.You might need to move a little silver pawl with a pin or micro driver then you can push the mirror **** in to release the reflex mirror.the mirror cocking rod is about 1/8" dia.Hope this helps

Oct 21, 2007 | Pentax K1000 35mm SLR Camera

2 Answers

Film advance lever

Your camera is cocked but since the shutter is not working you cannot release it and hence your film advance mechanism does not work. ME-super will work without batteries in full manual mode so set your shutter to B and try to release it. If the shutter will not release in B mode then the shutter/mirror box will need servicing : rubber components in the mirror box mechanism have perished and need replacing. After that your camera will be fine for another couple of years.

Sep 18, 2007 | Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Film advance lever

Yes this is fairly common with K 1000 and the Spotmatics : although the shutter is cocked and hence you cannot advance film you cannot release shutter because mirror box is not cocked. Remedy : remove bottom cover and locate mirror box lever which protrudes slightely and is movable up and down and is spring loaded. Move upwards until it licks in position ( moving up against spring tension ). Now release the shutter and camera should let you advance the film .

Sep 17, 2007 | Pentax K1000 35mm SLR Camera

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