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I have a whirlpool heavy duty thin twin model LTE4243DQ1. I need to remove the heating element and the thermal fuse where is this located?

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  • jason_phi680 Aug 22, 2010

    So if the dryer is blowing cold air and there is no heat what should I check?

  • jason_phi680 Aug 23, 2010

    So if the dryer is blowing cold air what should I check?

  • jason_phi680 Aug 23, 2010

    The incoming voltage is good. So how do I remove the thermal cutout and the hi-limit thermostat (2-part kit) and while I'm at it.... the heating element? So I can take it and get the continuity checked.

  • jason_phi680 Aug 23, 2010

    I did copy and paste it. The machine looks different than mine. My control panel is in the middle of the machine, the manuel shows it's control panel at the top.. The manuel says its Large-capacity thin twin laundry system. Mine is a heavy duty thin twin....same system? It looks different....?

  • jason_phi680 Aug 23, 2010

    Sorry these manuals are different models. My machine is a electric Model #LTE5243DQ1. Whirlpool heavy duty thin twin. I need the right manual so I can remove the right parts.

  • jason_phi680 Aug 25, 2010

    It was very helpful. I could not have replaced the thermal fuse without there guidance. Totally worth 6 bucks.



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Please go to the web link below for instructions, the thermal fuse can also replaced at that time

Posted on Aug 23, 2010

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Thanks for using FixYa. You can check this service/technical manual on how to remove the heating element and thermal fuse:

Whirlpool Thin Twin

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Posted on Aug 23, 2010

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The thermal fuse located on the left side of the main exhaust duct prevents the dryer from running due to a restricted airflow.
The thermal cutout is located on the top of the heating element duct and prevents the heating element from working,usually due to a defective hi-limit thermostat.
The thermal cutout and hi-limit thermostat comes as a kit(2 parts).

Copy and paste this Factory Service manual to find all your part locations and troubleshooting guide.$FILE/L-56_4314124A.pdf

Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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  • steve
    steve Aug 23, 2010

    The first place to check would be incoming power with a volt meter set for 220 or higher voltage.
    If you have less than 220 volts at the terminal block on the rear of the dryer,your have a voltage problem in your circuit breaker/fuse panel.

    The second place to check would be the thermal cutout, then the hi-limit thermostat,then the heating element.
    All must be checked with a volt meter set for ohms.
    An OL reading or no reading at all would be a bad component.
    The bad component(s) must be replaced.

  • steve
    steve Aug 23, 2010

    You should copy and paste the Factory service manual I referenced.
    It will detail how to remove the rear panel and will identify the parts to be tested.

  • steve
    steve Aug 25, 2010

    The diagrams referenced will show the location on the parts to access.
    Remove the rear dryer panel to find these parts.


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I have a kenmore 70 series heavy duty 110 96573230. It doesn't heat up. Can't find where the thermal fuse. Where is it located? Do I need to unscrew the back?

Yes, you need to take it all apart. ( Including the back.)
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Not only the "thermal fuse", but also the heating element, and any of the "overheat thermostat switches" can have failed, beside the possibility there is a wire has burned in two.
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How many thermostats are there and where are they located?

If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 9)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 8)
Thermal Fuse (Item 7)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

If you have any questions, or need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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Whirlpool heavy duty thin twin broken heater, the dryer just stop heating, please help I can repair my self, unit is about 6 years old and it works grat

Hi, thanks for the inquiry.

If it's a gas dryer, it's most likely a thermal fuse. Basically, the voltage has to go through the fuse before it goes to the ignitor.

If it's an electric, it's either the heating element or the thermal cut-off, most of the time.
You'll proabably have to get to the element and fuse from the back. What I would do is just tilt the entire unit forward, if it's in a tight closet.

Best of luck and please feel free to contact me if you have any questions.


Sep 21, 2009 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

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Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You need a thermal fuse and or heater element, both very simple and affordable to replace. Try replacing the thermal fuse first to see if that's the problem. To replace the thermal fuse just remove back cover of dryer and look down where the air blows out. Now, just to the left where all the wires are you will see a white plastic part with two wires plugged into it. This part is called a thermal fuse. Just remove these wires and replace the thermal fuse. If this don't solve your problem you will need to replace the heater element. To replace the heater element, with the back cover off of your dryer just look down and to the right of were the air blows out. You will see the electric heating unit with two fat red wires plugged into it. Unplug these wires and you will see on the sheetmetal housing two screws that hold it on, one on each side. On older elctric dryers there is only one screw that holds element in place, it is on the bottom center of element screwed in from behind. Remove screw(s) and remove old heater element. Now, lay the new element next to the old one and take notice that there is a heat sensor attached to the old element where one of the red wires unplugged from. Gently remove this sensor and install it onto the new element in the same location as the old one. If you have an older electric dryer, the old heater element doesn't have the heat sensor on it, just skip this step. Now, plug in your two red wires and re-install your heater element. Your dryer will run like new. Happy to help, Tim.

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First make sure you have power to the unit through the plug. If power is present, then you most likely have an open Thermal Safety Fuse. The Thermal is a Safety feature that shuts off the power to the Heat Element in the event the Blower is not blowing or the Lint Vent becomes clogged not allowing air to flow over the Heat Element. NO air flow, Heat Element over heats, Thermal Safety Fuse opens, power shuts off. If the Thermal Safety Fuse is open find out why. Was the blower not working? Was the Lint Filter clogged? ( Lint Filter should be cleaned after each use to assure continued air flow.) Was Lint Vent Clogged? This is the Vent Hose that goes from the Dryer to the outside of your house. It should be checked for free air movement. The next thing-- Could be a defective Timer or Control Module.
Find where you lost power and WHY!!

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