Here are the most common problems related to over fill
Faulty Water Inlet Valve
water inlet valve is the device that meters water from the supply lines
into your wash tub. On domestic washers, there are two lines, one hot
the other cold. These valves are susceptible to mineral build-up and
sediment deposits. There are two common failure modes: Failure Mode One: Valve will not open.
you can verify that the solenoid on the valve body is receiving the
requisite voltage and the valve will not open, then it is faulty.
Since the solenoids operate independently, it is likely that one side
of the valve will work and the other will not. This can produce strand
results such as a very hot wash when warm is selected (due to no cold
water). Or the reverse in that the wash water is cold when warm is
selected. If mineral or hard water deposits are a problem, you may
witness a substantial increase in the time required for the tub to
fill. This is caused be a decrease in the flow ware of the valve.Failure Mode Two: Valve opens but will not close.
is verified by a valve that allows water to flow into the tub even
though no power is being supplied to the solenoid. This one is usually
quickly diagnosed when the machine begins to overflow and the power
plug for the washer is disconnected from the wall. However, this will
not stop the water from flowing into the machine. The water must be
shut off at the wall. As with the previous failure mode, the variant of
this failure mode is that it may take the valve a while to completely
bridge the flow of water after the power has been removed from the
solenoid.How to Diagnose?
There are a
couple of ways to diagnose a faulty valve. However, there is a simple
test that one can perform that will usually let you know if the water
inlet valve is faulty.Scenario:
When set to cold wash
and rinse, the unit will not fill. When set to warm wash and cold
rinse the washer will fill with hot water only and will fail to rinse.
This is a common scenario where the cold water side of the valve does
not appear to be contributing to the fill, but the hot water side
does. This symptom could be easily reversed where cold water is being
supplied, but never hot water.
So, how can the problem be
determined? It is as simple as switching the wire harness plugs on the
hot and cold side. In the example above where the cold water is never
being supplied, the symptoms would be the opposite when the wiring
harnesses were switched. So the machine would produce only produce
cold when warm or hot is selected. No water should be present when you
select cold. This verifies that the timer, wiring and switches are all
in working order. Assuming this tests checks out, you simply need to
replace the water inlet valve.Faulty Water Level (Pressure) Switch
The water level
(pressure) switch detects the hight of the water in the wash tub by the
pressure it creates. Much like your ears feel greater pressure when
you dive into the deep end of the swimming pool, this switch senses the
increase in pressure from water added to the tub. The size of the load
you select determines how much prssure is required before the switch
tells the water inlet valve to close.
If voltage is still being supplied to the water inlet valves and the tub is full, then the water level switch is likely fault
Faulty Water Level Switch Supply Tube
The tube that connects
the water level (pressure) switch to the outer wash tub must have
pressure integrity for the washer to be able to determine the correct
water level. There are four possible problems that can prevent this
tube from performing its duties.
- The tube can become clogged with lint or debris. This can
prevent water from entering the tube and therefore not apply pressure
to the switch.
- The tube can become cracked. Much like a
straw in a soft drink, if the supply tube has a crack in it, it can not
send pressure to the switch.
- The tube has become kinked. If the tube becomes kinked, it can not send pressure to the switch.
tube has become disconnected from either the tub or the switch. If
either of these occurs it can not send pressure to the switch.
To prevent leaks, it is wise to replace a water level switch supply
tube that has become brittle. Failure of this tube during operation of
the washer could result in a sustained water leak.
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