Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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There is a device open to the top between the inlet solenoid valves and the main tub. It appears like a pressure reducing device but unless the water valves are varely open, water leaks into the cabinet. Is this necessare or can it be removed. Model A883 vintage 1989 Maytag

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  • ode2joy10 Aug 22, 2010

    Thanks for your good help. Will buy one this week. This is for a dear friend and using her computer setup. Thanks again, Bob

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  • Maytag Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hi,

Welcome to FixYa.

Being this machine is built by Maytag, the model should be "LA883"


I'll start by identifying the part you're referring to, it is call the "nozzle & tube" and should look like this...

There is a device open to the top between the - e6aa047.jpg
I'll follow that with, I'm not sure how necessary it is, I've never tried just alway's replaced, it's common enough to carry in my service van stock. I guess you could try I doubt the consequence would be much.

It is readily available at most local brick & mortar appliance part stores or on-line vendors such as "repairclinic.com" "searspartsdirect.com" or "apwagner.com" to name a few.

It list for about $10 -$15 comes in a kit with what you see in the attachment, part number at "repairclinic" is 400646 and it is a very common place for leaking...almost always eventually.

Hope that helps move you forward. Let me know if you require further assistance and good luck.

macmarkus :)

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Aug 22, 2010

    You are welcome, thank you for choosing FixYa.



    Regards,



    macmarkus :)

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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How do I stop the front loader (washer/dryer from flooding my rv?


If the washer is overflowing the pressure switch might be defective. The pressure switch is attached to a small tube which is attached to the outer wash tub. As the water level rises the air pressure in the tube increases, once the set water level is reached the pressure switch turns off power to the water inlet valve. Check to be sure the air tube to the pressure switch is clear before replacing the switch.
If the pressure switch is fine, check the water inlet valve for continuity on the solenoid coil by removing the top cover of the machine.

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LG washing machine intellowasher 7 kg wd-8050f showing no inlet frequently even after cleaning the inlet connection point


Please unplug or shut off the power at the fuse box...
The water inlet valve connects the hot and cold water lines from your home to the back of the washer. The solenoids on the valve open one or both valves to provide the proper water temperature for the wash cycle. If the valve The water inlet valve connects the hot and cold water lines from your home to the back of the washer. The solenoids on the valve open one or both valves to provide the proper water temperature for the wash cycle. If the valves are blocked or the solenoids do not activate, the symptoms may include no water, low water pressure, the wrong water temperature or water entering the tub even when the machine is off.
s are blocked or the solenoids do not activate, the symptoms may include no water, low water pressure, the wrong water temperature or water entering the tub even when the machine is off.
The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it at the back of the washer. Start by turning off the water supply at the valves on the wall. Disconnect both hoses from the back of the washer. Place the hoses into a bucket and turn them on to confirm that you are getting good water pressure and to clear out any debris from the line.
Inspect the filter screens on both the hoses and the inlet valve for debris build up. If you find any debris, clean it out. Use caution to avoid damaging the filter screens because the screens in the valve are not replaceable.
If debris was not present then proceed to the next step of testing the solenoids. Access to the valve may be easiest by opening the top or the back of the washer, depending upon make and model.There are two wires connected to each solenoid (aka coil) on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.


Jan 19, 2010 | Washing Machines

3 Answers

Does not stop filling up


Every washer has a water level switch. These switches work by air pressure. As water rises in the tub, air trapped in the pressure tube on bottom of the tub is squeezed till it makes a lever inside the water level switch kill the power to them water valve solenoids and shift the power over to the motor. Sand and sediment will get into the sump where that tube connects blocking the air and so the switch dont know when to shut off. Disconnect the hose at the water level switch and blow out the stuff on bottom of tub. Reconnect the tube securely and pump out any water in the tub. Restart the machine.
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Dec 20, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water is leaking out from the bottom


If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
  • Water inlet valve: If water drips even when the washer is off,check the water inlet valve. It is located inside the washer at the back of the unit. The fill hoses are attached to it. Replace if deemed necessary.
  • Water fill hoses: Check the water hoses from the household plumbing. Tighten it or replace it as necessary..
  • Main tub seal: It is located between the transmission and the outer tub. To see the leak, fill the machine with water with small amount of detergent then open up the machine's main access panel.. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. The seal is difficult to replace and you probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  • Pump: You can spot the leak when the tub is full of water if the pump leaks. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. Replace it as necessary if it leaks.
  • Outer tub: The outer tub can rust, split, or be punctured.You may have to replace the entire tub but its not economical repair to do. Consult a qualified technician for details.
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
  1. Air-gap device: It is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It is located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. It is usually made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you have to replace it.
  2. The tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
  3. Inlet spout: It is a plastic spout found on most washers near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

Oct 26, 2009 | GE WBSR3140DW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I'm getting water coming out of the seam on the left side between the top of the washer and the side panel. Is this hard or expensive to repair?


If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
  • Water inlet valve: If water drips even when the washer is off,check the water inlet valve. It is located inside the washer at the back of the unit. The fill hoses are attached to it. Replace if deemed necessary.
  • Water fill hoses: Check the water hoses from the household plumbing. Tighten it or replace it as necessary..
  • Main tub seal: It is located between the transmission and the outer tub. To see the leak, fill the machine with water with small amount of detergent then open up the machine's main access panel.. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. The seal is difficult to replace and you probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  • Pump: You can spot the leak when the tub is full of water if the pump leaks. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. Replace it as necessary if it leaks.
  • Outer tub: The outer tub can rust, split, or be punctured.You may have to replace the entire tub but its not economical repair to do. Consult a qualified technician for deatils.
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
  1. Air-gap device: It is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It is located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. It is usually made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you have to replace it.
  2. The tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
  3. Inlet spout: It is a plastic spout found on most washers near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

Oct 24, 2009 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water dripping into the tub when washer is not in use


You are right, it is called the water inlet valve assembly. I will attach a photo for reference. You can try to clean the small metal screens inside the opening on the valve, but the problem is most likely in the solenoids. They can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter and checking for continuity. A lack of continuity means a bad solenoid and the water inlet valve will need replaced. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

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Sep 28, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Displaying error 10 , door won't open


Washer dryers often have cold water valves with 3 separate solenoids. One for the main wash and rinses (which is clearly ok) and one for the condition rinse (to take the fabric conditioner down) which is probably ok too, and the 3rd one is for the dryer. It's possible this 3rd solenoid has failed.

Washer dryers need on a steady trickle of cold water running into the condenser chamber to convert the steam into water, which then gets pumped down the drain.

e10 means that there is a problem with the water supply.
a condenser dryer needs cold water to operate properly. the e10 code will appear if:
1. the water is turned off
2.the water pressure is too low.
3.the solenoid valve is open circuit
4.there is a problem with the pressure switch (least likely)

Cold valve is at the end of blue inlet pipe remove lid and you will see it.

f E10 is only appearing when trying to dry, the problem almost certainly is the condenser valve solenoid open circuit. The green solenoid on the inlet valve. Should read about 4000 ohms.

My money would be on the solenoid coil being open circuit. The coil can be canabalised from most valves although you may have to modify the connections. For simpler repairs - contact Zanussi and get the entire triple inlet water valve to swap out.


http://www.zanussi-electrolux.co.uk/files/unitedkingdom_english/0-999/zanussi%20error%20codes.swf


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Sep 07, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water appears to collect in the tub when the machine is not in us


This is caused by a faulty inlet valve solenoid. It is allowing water to run into the tub. The solenoids can be tested using a multimeter for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a faulty solenoid and the water inlet valve will need replaced. See the attached photo for reference. Hope this helped and best wishes.

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Aug 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My Fridgidaire front load clothes washer model ltf2940es3 is showing error message e10


Washer dryers often have cold water valves with 3 separate solenoids. One for the main wash and rinses (which is clearly ok) and one for the condition rinse (to take the fabric conditioner down) which is probably ok too, and the 3rd one is for the dryer. It's possible this 3rd solenoid has failed.

Washer dryers need on a steady trickle of cold water running into the condenser chamber to convert the steam into water, which then gets pumped down the drain.

e10 means that there is a problem with the water supply.
a condenser dryer needs cold water to operate properly. the e10 code will appear if:
1. the water is turned off
2.the water pressure is too low.
3.the solenoid valve is open circuit
4.there is a problem with the pressure switch (least likely)

Cold valve is at the end of blue inlet pipe remove lid and you will see it.

f E10 is only appearing when trying to dry, the problem almost certainly is the condenser valve solenoid open circuit. The green solenoid on the inlet valve. Should read about 4000 ohms.

My money would be on the solenoid coil being open circuit. The coil can be canabalised from most valves although you may have to modify the connections. For simpler repairs - contact Zanussi and get the entire triple inlet water valve to swap out.


http://www.zanussi-electrolux.co.uk/files/unitedkingdom_english/0-999/zanussi%20error%20codes.swf


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

May 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

When i am filling up my washer it does not stop.




Hello welcome


Here are the most common problems related to over fill

Faulty Water Inlet Valve
The water inlet valve is the device that meters water from the supply lines into your wash tub. On domestic washers, there are two lines, one hot the other cold. These valves are susceptible to mineral build-up and sediment deposits. There are two common failure modes:

Failure Mode One: Valve will not open.
If you can verify that the solenoid on the valve body is receiving the requisite voltage and the valve will not open, then it is faulty. Since the solenoids operate independently, it is likely that one side of the valve will work and the other will not. This can produce strand results such as a very hot wash when warm is selected (due to no cold water). Or the reverse in that the wash water is cold when warm is selected. If mineral or hard water deposits are a problem, you may witness a substantial increase in the time required for the tub to fill. This is caused be a decrease in the flow ware of the valve.

Failure Mode Two: Valve opens but will not close.
This is verified by a valve that allows water to flow into the tub even though no power is being supplied to the solenoid. This one is usually quickly diagnosed when the machine begins to overflow and the power plug for the washer is disconnected from the wall. However, this will not stop the water from flowing into the machine. The water must be shut off at the wall. As with the previous failure mode, the variant of this failure mode is that it may take the valve a while to completely bridge the flow of water after the power has been removed from the solenoid.

How to Diagnose?
There are a couple of ways to diagnose a faulty valve. However, there is a simple test that one can perform that will usually let you know if the water inlet valve is faulty.

Scenario:
When set to cold wash and rinse, the unit will not fill. When set to warm wash and cold rinse the washer will fill with hot water only and will fail to rinse. This is a common scenario where the cold water side of the valve does not appear to be contributing to the fill, but the hot water side does. This symptom could be easily reversed where cold water is being supplied, but never hot water.

So, how can the problem be determined? It is as simple as switching the wire harness plugs on the hot and cold side. In the example above where the cold water is never being supplied, the symptoms would be the opposite when the wiring harnesses were switched. So the machine would produce only produce cold when warm or hot is selected. No water should be present when you select cold. This verifies that the timer, wiring and switches are all in working order. Assuming this tests checks out, you simply need to replace the water inlet valve.

Faulty Water Level (Pressure) Switch
The water level (pressure) switch detects the hight of the water in the wash tub by the pressure it creates. Much like your ears feel greater pressure when you dive into the deep end of the swimming pool, this switch senses the increase in pressure from water added to the tub. The size of the load you select determines how much prssure is required before the switch tells the water inlet valve to close.

If voltage is still being supplied to the water inlet valves and the tub is full, then the water level switch is likely fault

Faulty Water Level Switch Supply Tube
The tube that connects the water level (pressure) switch to the outer wash tub must have pressure integrity for the washer to be able to determine the correct water level. There are four possible problems that can prevent this tube from performing its duties.
  1. The tube can become clogged with lint or debris. This can prevent water from entering the tube and therefore not apply pressure to the switch.
  2. The tube can become cracked. Much like a straw in a soft drink, if the supply tube has a crack in it, it can not send pressure to the switch.
  3. The tube has become kinked. If the tube becomes kinked, it can not send pressure to the switch.
  4. The tube has become disconnected from either the tub or the switch. If either of these occurs it can not send pressure to the switch.
To prevent leaks, it is wise to replace a water level switch supply tube that has become brittle. Failure of this tube during operation of the washer could result in a sustained water leak.


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Dec 07, 2008 | Kenmore 24982 Top Load Washer

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