Question about Polaris 280 In - Ground Pool Cleaner with Booster Pump

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Single drive wheel does not engage with the drive screw. Threads on wheel and drive screw look OK. Is there an adjustment to tighten the connection?

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There is a spring

Posted on May 22, 2016


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Turn off the brake

If you remove the handle, you will notice there is one larger black Phillips screw under the black plastic strip.

Engage the wheels and loosen that screw.

Slide the lower handle part back and forth and you will notice the wheels will reverse and go forward again.

Find the position where the wheels lock and unlock for you, and tighten that one screw again.
It does not take very much adjustment to make that system engage so do it in small increments.

You will see what I mean when you unlock that screw and slide the lower handle just a tad , but the wheels must be in the engaged position in order to adjust it properly.

Hope this helps!

William R!

Oct 13, 2014 | Kirby Vacuums

1 Answer

Change drive belt

Setting the belt tension on the 707-708-717 machines with the old rubber "Continental" belts:
1. Make sure that the hand-wheel spins freely on the main-shaft bushing stub when the release knob is loosened.
2. Assuming that you are using the original 441mm "Continental" rubber v-belts, the setting is made by means of loosening a 5mm Allen socket cap screw at the base of the step pulley support.
NOTE: The hand-wheel, stepped pulley, and motor pulley v-grooves must be clean. This is to say, that they cannot have any particulate or threads wrapped around the grooves.
4. The pulley will be automatically pre-tensioned to a 7 o'clock position by means of a spring to maintain the stepped pulley position. By pulling the belt toward this 7 o'clock position, the pulley tension can be adjusted and then tightened by means of the fixing screw.
5. It is important to know that both the upper and lower belt tensions can be independently adjusted so as to allow the hand-wheel to spin freely for bobbin winding without having the hand-wheel drive the machine. This is done by adjusting the step pulley support + or - radially, near the 7 o'clock position.
If the hand-wheel drives the machine with the upper belt loosened, then either the belt is too tight or the hand-wheel bushing and main-shaft stub need cleaning and lubrication.
Note: Lubrication was once the standard factory procedure with a class 68 oil, but experience dictates a dry lubrication with graphite. Silicone lubes are not recommended.
6. Do not over-tighten the 5mm Allen fixing screw as the 5mm threaded frame boss can be broken off.
Adjusting with the original Polyurethane v-belts on models 807-801-810-817-811 machines:
1. Follow the same procedure as mentioned but allow the step pulley's positioning spring provide the belt tension. Nothing more is required here.
NOTE: Sometimes these belts and pulleys get oily thus allowing much slippage. A simple cleaning of the belts and pulleys with mineral spirits can solve this problem.
After-market belts:
NOTE: One can find after market belts that serves to drive these machines but not without some problems as they are usually wider belts and don't fit the pulleys well. In this case some adjustment will be necessary.
SewTechnical Home

Mar 28, 2014 | Bernina Sewing Machines

2 Answers

My handbrake needs adjusting in my Toyota Corolla 1994. Can u please explain how this adjustment is done.

Hello, My usual Brands are Ford products, but Foreign cars usually use simple, less expensive ways to do things. Assuming the brake pads are good, there should be a cable connected to the handbrake. You would usually pull the handbrake up to engage about 1/4 the way to engagement and lock it there.
Then you would go underneath the car and find the cable that stretches from the handbrake lever to a juction with a second cable. There should be an adjusting thread somewhere at this intersection.

With the rear wheels off the ground, you would tighten the nut on the threads of the handbrake cable until you hear rubbing in the rear brakes. Then get inside the car and pull back on the handbrake lever and you should not be able to move the rear wheels with the handbrake set. You then release the handbrake 100% and the rear wheels should turn mostly without noise.

Now if you can not find an adjustment nut under the car, it is possible the handbrake adjustment nut is under the handbrake cover/boot inside the car. Still use the same process of setting the lever 1/4 engaged and tightening the threaded cable until the rear wheels start dragging.

I hope this helps you.

Sep 28, 2011 | 1994 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Which parts go on the dremel to use the cut wheel?

there is a straight shaft with a screw that threads into it that you would use for the cut wheel, don't over tighten it or you will crack it before using it.

May 17, 2011 | Dremel 100N7 Single Speed Rotary Tool Kit

1 Answer

How do you ajust rear wheel so it is alignedright?

1.loosen the bolts on either side of the bike at the rear of the frame. this is what allows the back wheel to be adjusted. aka wheel adjusters. loosen the wheel itself.

3.pull the wheel back until there is just a tiny bit of slack in the chain. tighten those wheel adjusters on either side of the wheel. To get the wheel dead centered count the threads visable and make them the same on both sides.

5.tighten the wheel back up as you pull it back against the wheel adjusters.

good luck and safe riding

Sep 14, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTC - FLHTCI Electra...

1 Answer

1997 Dodge Caravan Sport. I was driving normal then it quit pulling. Now have 3 forward gears no more than 8 miles an hour. No reverse. Dropped trans pan small metal on magnet.Fluid looked ok. Changed...

The correct fluid to put in a 1997 van is (ATF-3). Sounds like you need to make adjustment on both the forward and reverse bands of the transmission to correct your problem. The kickdown band (front) forward is located at the top (outside) of the transaxle near the front. To adjust the band,loosen the lock nut approximately 5 turns. With the lock nut loose the adjusting screw should turn freely in case. Tighten the adjustment screw with an inch lb. torque wrench to 72 in-lbs. Then back the screw out 2 1/4 turns, hold the screw in place and tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lbs. Then after removeing the transmission pan and filter the low-reverse band is located next to the valve body. Loosen the lock nut 5 turns so the adjustment screw is free. Turn the adjustment screw in to 41 in-lbs, then back the screw out 3 1/2 turns. Hold the adjustment screw and tighten the lock nut 10 ft-lbs. Install transmission pan/with gasket and refill transaxle to proper level. Test drive van. Be safe and block the rear wheels before you raise the van and try to work under it. Hope this will help you.

May 19, 2010 | 1997 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

Craftsman rotary mower, p/n 917.374821 will not move sometimes.

It is quite possible that one or the other of your pinions (item 55 in parts manual) has gone bad in addition to the wheels. Start the mower, engage the drive and lift the back end just enough to clear the ground and see if both wheels turn. If only one wheel turns, attempt to stop it from turning by setting it on the ground at an angle, if the opposite wheel does not turn, you will need to inspect the pinions.

Oct 30, 2009 | Craftsman Garden

2 Answers

Steering box adjustment, how

Before you do this procedure, check the rubber or universal joint connector between steering column and the steering gear. If it's worn it will cause looseness and there's your problem. Otherwise, there is a threaded screw with a lock nut on the top of steering gear. Clean threads first. Put a large flat screwdriver on the screw and loosen the lock nut. Back it off several turns. Now, screw the screw down into the gear box. Not too tight though. Your actually jamming the gears back together. Back it off a 1/2 turn or so and run it back in lightly. Hold the screwdriver and tighten the lock nut. This is usually effective.

Apr 21, 2009 | Chevrolet Astro Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Chainsaw chain came off/is loose

You need to tighten the chain, and or remove and reinstall the chain depending on whether or not it has come off the drive wheel. The chain drive is on the right hand side of the saw, and there are either two nuts (about 1/2 inch or 13mm) holding the chain on, or there is a little half round handle you can use to tighten the chain after it is on the drive wheel properly. The saws with the two nuts on them have a small flat blade screw on the backside on the bar that you tighten the chain with. And to make things more confusing, some of the newer bars have a round hole in them, that after you loosen the two bolts, you stick a screwdriver in the hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the bar, then you re tighten the 2 nuts.
Since from your description that it wont engage to cut, you will have to remove and reinstall the chain since it is loose from the drive wheel. Clean out all the wood chips, etc in the drive wheel area before you reinstall the chain, make sure it is not on backwards and sharpen and oil it before you use it. Rick

Apr 11, 2009 | Poulan Wild Thing 18" 40cc Gas Chainsaw -...

1 Answer

Jeep grand cherokee revs for to high before changing gear

My 2002 Dakota has been somewhat confused about shifting as well. It showed a code P1762. I dropped the pan to install a new fluid filter and fluid-(use only ATF+3 or ATF+4). Since the pan was off I decided to adjust the bands. The front band controls the 2nd gear cluster. The rear band controls the 3rd gear cluster and reverse. For a 2-3 shift, the transmission shifts back to 1st gear with the front band while the rear band engages 3rd gear. If the front band does not release the 2nd gear clutches before the third gear clutches engage, the transmission binds, which shortens the life of the transmission clutches. If the front band releases too early in the shift, the engine will overspeed (sounds and feels like a slip) during the 2-3 shift.
The front band adjusting screw is on the driver's side above the shift linkage. The rear band is inside the fluid pan near the filter.
1. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary. The front band adjuster is on the outside of the transmission and the locknut requires a 3/4" wrench.

2. Using Inch Pound Torque Wrench C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and appropriate Torx� socket (T-40), tighten adjusting screw to 72 in-lb. CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 (from SPX Miller) is needed to reach the adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 47-50 in. lbs. torque.

3. Back off adjusting screw the number of turns listed below for your transmission.

4. Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten lock-nut to:

41 N�m (30 ft. lbs.) for the front band
34 N�m (25 ft. lbs.) for the rear band
The adjustment screw inside the case is a square head bolt. You will need a 1/4 square head socket to fit your torque wrench.
Band adjustments for each model year:

* Front Band - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/2 turns (all transmissions)
* Rear Band
o 32/42RH - Tighten to 72 in-LB, back off 4 turns
o 36/37/46/47RH - Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns


* Front Band
o 42RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/4 turns
o 46RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
o 47RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 42RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
o 46RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
o 47RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns


* Front Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3-5/8 turns
o 46RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
o 47RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
o 46RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
o 47RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns


* Front Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns. (TSB 21-16-98)
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1 7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns
+ The 47RH rear band requires a 1/4" hex driver, the front band requires a
T-30 Torx driver, the filter is held in place by two screws which require a T-20 Torx drive


* Front Band
o 42RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns
o 44RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
o 46RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 2 7/8 turns
o 47RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
From Bill Konolday's 47RE notes: I usually go a little looser than factory
specs on this front band - backing off the adjustment screw 2 or 2 1/4 turns.
Depending on the circumstances I have backed off the band up to 2 1/2 turns.
* Rear Band
o 42RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
o 44RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
o 46RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns


* Front Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1-3/4 turns
* Rear Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns


* Front Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds,
back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns for diesel vehicles,
or 1-1/2 turns, for V-10 vehicles.
* Rear Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

94+ Automatic Transmission Bolt and Nut Torque Specs

* Front band adjustment locknut - 30 ft-lb
* Rear band adjustment locknut - 25 ft-lb
* Transmission pan bolts - 13 ft-lb
I just replaced the solenoid with the recommended transducer and all is fine now. The transducer cost me about $50 at a nearby dealership.
Hope this helps. -zman.

Dec 09, 2008 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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