Question about Sony VAIO GRX520 Notebook

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DC port? I am looking at the back of my Vaio GRX520, the DC port looks like 2 small prongs are sticking out of it. I ask myself did I lose a part or what happened. I dare not connect the DC adapter for fear that something might go wrong. Is there a part missing and how would I go about fixing this. Please help I really need my Vaio.

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Check adopter may be replace with any other laptop adopter....

Posted on May 04, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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When I try to turn on my vaio grx520 my screen does not come on


If your laptop appears to boot up and the hard disk LED flashes, then the problem is probably a back light fault. This can be a faulty inverter or a faulty CCFL lamp. Please click on this link and follow my instructions to identify the fault and possible fix :- http://www.fixya.com/support/r3598095-faulty_laptop_lcd_screen

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N214 has been dropped on charge connector how can i fix it?


I have a '56 Chevy truck, that I need the torque specifications for the cylinder heads, on the engine.

See the problem? I didn't state what engine is used.

The n214 designation you stated comes up with either Gateway NV53A N214, or Gateway NV55C N214.

This means to me I am looking for a Service Manual for a Gateway NV53 series of Notebook PC, or a Gateway NV55 series of Notebook PC.

1) http://www.insidemylaptop.com/disassemble-gateway-nv-series-laptop-fix-power-jack/

2) http://www.tim.id.au/blog/tims-laptop-service-manuals/#toc-gateway

Go down to the line that starts with - Gateway 400. (400 in blue)
Drop down to the second line, (EC54), and scroll across to NV53, in blue.

Left-click on NV53.

This is a PDF file. The computer you are using now has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files.

After you click on the file name (NV53) it may take up to 30 seconds, before the first page comes up.
(First page is black)

IF, I am correct so far as to the model, this is the information you need.

ALSO;

A) Be SURE to buy, and wear an ESD wrist strap. (Electro Static Discharge)

Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit) the delicate hardware components, inside a computer.

Connect the alligator clip to a good ground source.
(I connect to an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of an open, empty desktop computer case.

If the table you are working on has metal legs, connect to an unpainted surface on one of the legs.
Or at least connect to a large metallic object you can set on the table.
Perhaps a large metal serving tray, or large metal knickknack. (Unpainted)

B) Use a multi-compartment container for the various screws you will remove.
Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of.

(If no multi-compartment container is available, you can substitute with a clean egg carton.
Label each egg holder)

There are MANY screws that look VERY similar to other screws.
DO NOT mix them up.

C) Make a record as you disassemble.
Make notes, and drawings. (Legible so you can read them later)

Use a digital camera, and/or a video camera, if available.
Nice to have a personal record to refer back to, in case you are interrupted.

D) Page 92 in the Service Manual starts with replacing the System Board. (Motherboard)

The motherboard needs to be removed, and in your hands.

E) This is an example of the DC Power Jack,

http://www.machinaelectronics.com/store/buypart/Gateway_NV53/PC-P006

Click on the photo to the left to enlarge.
The view on the left shows the jack in it's normal position.
The middle view, and right view, show the jack upside down.

Looking at the middle view note the prongs ('Pins') sticking up.
The prong at the back, that is in the middle, and has a round shape at the bottom, is for the Positive connection.

The two shiny prongs that are together, and to the left of the Positive prong, are Negative prongs.

The jack has a metal U-shape, going over the top of it's black plastic body.
There are 3 prongs that stick up from it.
These are just used to help anchor the jack to the motherboard.

All of these prongs go through the motherboard, and are soldered to the motherboard.

My style is to use;
1) 25 Watt soldering iron, with a No.2 chisel tip.
(Soldering stand with damp sponge in base)

[Unless I break out the soldering station]

2) .032 Rosin core solder.

3) Desoldering Braid. (Solder Wick)
(Throw all Desoldering Tools {Solder S-ucker Tool} in the trash, as far as I'm concerned )

ESD wrist ********, and connected to a good ground source.
Motherboard on table, and upside down.

Unroll a little bit of the Desoldering Braid.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062744

(Desoldering Braid is essentially a bunch of very fine copper wires, woven into a braid. The braid soaks up melted solder)

Place the tip of the braid, on top of one of the solder joints, (Of a prong of the DC Power Jack)
Place the chisel tip of the soldering iron ON the braid, on top of the solder joint.

As the solder begins to melt, it will flow into the braid.
Do Not tarry too long.

Lift the braid up. Look to see what solder has been removed, then cut the solder soaked tip of the braid off.
Start with a fresh new tip.

Begin again. Remove as much solder as you can, from the circuit trace hole area, that the prong of the DC Power Jack is in.
Do this for all of the DC Power Jack prongs.


Now reach under the motherboard, and grab the DC Power Jack with the tips of your fingers, and thumb.

The tips of your fingers, and thumb apply pressure against the motherboard, and pull up on the DC Power Jack.

The knuckles of your first finger, second finger, and thumb, press against the motherboard. This acts as leverage.

While applying pressure start melting the solder on one of the prongs.
The prong will ease up out of the motherboard, BUT only just a little.
This is because the other prongs are holding the jack.

Now heat up a prong close to the one you started with. As the solder melts the prong will start to come out.
Keep going around on all the prongs, until one by one they start coming up out of the motherboard.

NOTE*
The MAIN thing is you DO NOT want to heat the motherboard too much, when removing the DC Power Jack.

On the motherboard are Circuit Traces. (Also known as Signal Traces)
These are the tiny, thin copper wire looking paths, on the motherboard.

TOO much heat, and you can burn the motherboard, and lift a circuit trace off of the motherboard.

TOO much heat, and you can overheat the circuit trace 'hole', and it can't be tinned again.
(Tinning = Thin coat of solder)

GO s-l-o-w. Stop OFTEN, and let everything cool down. There is no need to rush.

After the DC Power Jack is removed, there may be a thin skin of solder covering the circuit trace holes.

Don't mess with it. When the new jack is put into place, with the prongs against the thin skin of solder, touch the thin skin, and the prong will poke through.

Also after the old DC Power Jack is removed, the circuit trace hole areas need to be prepped.

An old toothbrush works best along with Isopropyl Alcohol, to clean off the residue left behind.

[CAUTION!!
Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE!
Use in a Well ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present ]

Sometimes you may have to carefully use a small piece of fine sandpaper.
Clean the circuit trace hole area so that it is bright, and shiny, Then tin the area.

http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2007/12/06/dc-power-jack-repair-guide/

Make SURE your solder connections are good!
Shiny bright solder joints.
A cold solder joint will have you scratching your head, wondering what could be wrong.

Practice, practice, practice, your soldering techniques, before working on the laptop.

IF, this is NOT the laptop in question, please post in a Comment.
For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Jan 29, 2012 | Computers & Internet

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This link will help you out for sure.. Drivers For Branded ComputersAnd Devices
If you want you may also chat with the technician available at the above link.

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READ THIS ALL THROUGH!!!

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