At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You should have a pressure regulator between your stove and your propane bottle. It's probably delivering too much propane at too high of a pressure to the stove.. If you don't have a regulator, THAT would be your problem. A regulator set to too high a pressure makes flame too high and flame may even try to blow itself out. I've remedied this by taking a small cover off the center of the regulator and adjusting a screw.. (Not all regulators can be adjusted.) If adjusting isn't possible, I'd suggest a new pressure regulator (for LPG). Note: A regulator for LPG is NOT set up the same as a regulator for natural gas.
Check your manual and make sure your burner is configured for the gas that you are using. In most cases, there is an orifice that needs to be changed for using LP, or a screw setting that needs to be changed- most new appliances ship with a "city gas" configuration ( AKA NG - Natural Gas) and need to be configured for LPG (Liquified Propane Gas). The fitting(s) that need to be changed are tagged. This is due to the pressure difference between NG and LPG. Propane (LPG) runs at a higher pressure.
You state that your fryer is LPG. If you are running it on NG ("city gas") you need to consult your manual for converting it to NG. Outside of making sure that you are set up for the right gas, you should not have to make any other adjustments. For safety reasons, gas regulator pressure adjustments are for the most part no longer possible on gas appliances.
Very tricky, EU gas runs on a different mbar pressure to US. It's not just changing the parts but also making sure it is legal to operate and it will need to be tested to CSA standard. In EU they have a CE certificate - this means nothing in US. For info on LPG gas see gas types, might be best to just buy a new burner head that is already converted to run on US LPG pressure.
You need to convert the unit if you are changing from Natural gas to LPG. This involves getting a full conversion kit for your model and changing burner , gas pressures and electronic settings.
Power draw on high remains at 22Watts. Input is almost identical for either natural or LPG gas as you would expect but running costs depends on how much you pay for your LPG. For example in Australia we use 45kg bottles of LPG, they retails at about A$110 delivered. One of these would last about 170 hours running a 329 on high.About 2 litres of LPG per hour
I think the part numbers listed in the solution are LPG injectors.The orifices (injectors) needed to change over from Propane (LPG) to Gas (NAT.) would be 2 High Injectors 100F-2031-B-1.80 and one Low Injector 1004F-2036-B-1.95.
While propane and natural are similar, some devices require changes to properly operate on the selected fuel.
Information about this should be in the owners manual for the unit.
An off the cuff guess is that the gas pressure from the NG source isn't high enough, or that there is a gas regulatior on the generator that would need to be adjusted for NG.
areas to check are the fuel pressures, fuel hoses, fuel crossover solenoid
It indicates that the ECM is receiving the correct information from the sensors to adjust for LPG but when crossed over to petrol signals from sensors are not as clear as they should be
This can be from a power drain to components caused by a faulty solenoid or relay that is reducing the voltage available to the sensors ( normally in the air intake system or the heated oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold )
check all harness connections and wiring
if you are checking it all your self then a workshop manual that has all of the voltages for each sensor would provide help
×