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Just purchased this new fridge today and the fans haven't stopped and its been running for hours..Is this normal?

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Yes, It will take at least a day to catchup and settle to where it will turn onn and off....the more stff you can put in there the easier the fridge works also...

Don't get excited yet...

heatman101

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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FRIDGE button is set on 3, red light flashes, air system works but it is not cool for at least 1 hour, Freezer set on 4 S and works.


Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermistor and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it. Then make sure all the vents are clear and not being blocked by food cartons. One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem
If you find this helpful, a vote with the thumbs up would be appreciated for the free advice

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If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

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1 Answer

Its brand new so i'm not sure how it should run. here are my questions and observations. 1. it hasn't stopped running for two days and its the loudest appliance in the kitchen. why? 2. the overflow...


Howdy. I'm guessing you have a new refridgerator with a built in ice maker. although I don't know what the overflow pump might be, the running water sound is likely the ice tray filling.

If the running water sound is continuous, then there is a problem and the water valve that supplies the fridge should be shut off. By now you have likely turned down the temp in the freezer section a little, so I will move on to tell you that the new fridges are mostly ridiculously loud and make as many as 30 different, unsettling noises. Many will even be so bold as to mention this in the user's guide. Ideally, once it has settled in, made its bucket full of ice and come down to happy temps, it will quiet down a little. All you can do is keep it as full as possible , as this helps it stay cold better and is more efficient.
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I purchased the microwave oven just over a year ago and now after the time is up on an item cooking the air vent turns on automatically. The only way I have been able to stop the air vent after that is to...


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however the fan should not run for more than 1 minute.

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With the model number, we can offer more specific advice or an estimate.

But since FixYa does not notify us of follow-ups, you will need to post a new help request.

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That is a normal safety feature.

That's only covered in a very subtle note in the hood fan section of your owner's manual:

NOTE:If the temperature gets too hot around the
microwave oven, the fan in the vent hood will
automatically turn on at the HIGH setting to cool the
oven. It may stay on up to an hour. When this
occurs, the fan can not be turned off.

If for some reason you don't have your owner's manual, you can download it here.

Enter your model number as MV1610ST with no spaces.

You will need the free DJVU viewer to view or print your manual.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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