to Wayne (vmsem) : model MDG 4000BWQ Maytag Gas Dryer
I have the same dryer and experienced a similar problem. If you hear a click followed shortly by a gas ignition (whoo-oosh sound) but then there's no significant heat at the beginning of a drying cycle, the flame went out..... probably because you have a bad coil (aka solenoid valve). If the dryer is left on, the click-whoosh event will repeat periodically--I don't recall how often, perhaps 5 minutes. To access the coils you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer....(it's simple). Begin by locating the door hinge screws
when you open the door.Remove the screws that mount the hinges to the cabinet--leaving the hinges attached to the door itself. The door should still hang there loosely. With the door open, gently lift the door so the hinges will slide upward in the slot where they mount, then pull gently to slide the hinges out of the slots. When you remove the hinges you can see why they require the up-n-out motion. Now remove the screws (2) on the other side of the door opening--they are holding plastic "bumpers" attached to the cabinet just inside the door. The top front panel should now pull away from the cabinet--tug at the top R and L portion of the front panel but not at the base--it is hinged. Then allow the top of panel to drop forward and down (within 1 ft. of the floor?) until it can be easily pulled away from the cabinet (off of the brackets that hinge the base of the panel). Now you can see what's happening and troubleshoot. WARNING
--If you haven't unplugged your dryer BE VERY CAREFUL
not to touch exposed wires, igniter, etc. and if you activate the motor, keep your hands or anything else away from moving parts
, including the dryer drum.CLICK--WHOOSH--FLAME GOES OUT:
Chances are that your problem is with one or both "coils" that are mounted about 6" in front of the burner tube (metal duct where the gas ignites).
There's a bunch of red, white, and black wires attached to little plugs that are connected to the coils. They can be tested for continuity using an ohm meter and more on that can be found online. If the igniter is bad it will not get red hot and the flame will not appear. You can observe what happens by starting the dryer and watching. BE CAREFUL !!
(Hold the button in--where the door used to hit it. Or, temporarily replace the door without the front panel). The igniter should glow red-hot within 10 seconds and within 30 seconds the flame should start. If the flame starts but goes out after a few seconds it's more than likely a bad coil. If the igniter never gets hot, look closely at it (before removing it) with a flashlight to see if a crack or break is evident. BE SURE TO UNPLUG
the dryer before attempting to remove the igniter (or other parts) OR wires connected to it--SHOCK HAZARD!
Avoid touching the metal igniter element unless you're sure it's bad--Touching or bumping a good igniter may cause it to fail
. Directions on the procedure can be found online. .
Recently I encountered a less common problem with my 11 year old dryer that also prevents it from getting hot--(no flame at all). The igniter gets re-hot and stays red, but no fire. There's a (1x2-inch black box) heat sensor mounted over an opening on the burner duct, very near the igniter. As the sensor is heated by the ignitor, it's supposed to trigger the coils and allow the gas to flow for ignition. I understand that the sensor rarely fails but it can happen. More details about troubleshooting and replacing bad parts can be found elsewhere. I hope my comments were helpful. ("HandyAndy")