Question about RCA 27V520T 27" TV

1 Answer

Armed with DMM, tools, and solder...

I'm guessing that with a vertical stripe and 5-to-10-second auto-shutdowns after powering up... I have a horizontal deflection problem, similar to the vertical version in this problem. This is a hobby set so I have no time crunch, and could order whatever necessary components. Think you could assist with some light guidance?

Thanks!
Jason

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  • Jason Buechler
    Jason Buechler May 09, 2008

    Ah-ha!! The horizontal connector (??) to the yoke wasn't even attached! I can't believe I had not noticed ... but I didn't and you were right, it was a poor connection indeed. I wouldn't have ever noticed if not for your advice, I'm sure.



    Okay, so the cold solder was still loop-shaped (how it came off the yoke's post at all, I have no idea...) so I just hooked it back onto the post, and turned the set on. I am embarrassed to admit I have zero idea of if this would even qualify as a connection or not, if it's one of those things that needs to be fully soldered. To that extent, see below...



    Ta-da! The set stays on for longer than 5 seconds! In fact, it stayed on until I messed with it. The first time I turned it on (well, it turned itself on, after connection to power) I let it sit as-was for about 15 seconds then started hitting the channel-up button. After about 5 rapid pushes, it turned itself off.

    I unplugged/replugged. It turned self on. I let it sit for 30+ seconds then tried the menu button... nothing at all happened.

    So before I go messing with it more, I figured I would bounce the current progress off of you. Is the current display probably just a function of the crappy connection, or might there be something more to it that I should mess with?

    I took several pics you can view here...
    http://jamandasgrog.blogspot.com/2008/05...

    Thanks for your help!

  • Jason Buechler
    Jason Buechler May 20, 2008

    UPDATE #2:

    Ok, so I've got good news and bad news.
    I beautifully resoldered, but it is not yet "fixed".
    Here is what I know:

    I can adjust the SCREEN rheostat (I'm assuming that's what it is) to remove the lines, but they don't appear to be the real problem, now. And, actually, for the first several minutes of being powered on, they will just keep coming back and you need to continually up-just the dial.

    Further, I hooked up some bunny-ears and got reception enough that I could pick between PBS and some spanish channel, BUT I could not SEE anything (the screen was just plain black, as you've seen), OR adjust the volume which was very quiet.

    A friend and I scoured all over looking at the board, but did not see anything obvious. I did take some closeups if you are interested, though. We also checked out all the solderpoints we could find.

    For the first few minutes, rapid button pushing would still result in the set turning itself off. We would need to unplug it and wait a few seconds before plugging it back in, in order to get it to come back on. However, after it had been on for a while (5-10 mins?) no amount of button pushing had any effect.

    So to summarize:
    - The tuner is functional
    - Audio appears to work, but volume unadjustable
    - Video only gives scan-trace on black

    Ideas? If you want to pinpoint and specific areas for DMM checking, I'll hit that right up. Sorry the delay in getting back to this. Since my last post, I had to put my 3y/o dog to sleep, and got dumped by my g/f of 1.5 years. Sigh.

    Thanks for your help,
    Jason

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  • 104 Answers

It is unuaual for the horizontal to go out, leaving a vertical line.
The vertical gets it's power from the horizontal circuit, so if the hor. fails you should have nothing on the display. In this case it may be as simple as the hor. connector to the yoke being burned and not making a good connection. In any case I'm sure the circuitry is ok and you should look for cracked solder joints and/or burned connections. The shut down could be due to there being no hor. deflection, causing the HV to go to high, causing the shutdown. You should check/replace any capacitors that are bad, especially those around the HV shutdown circuit.

Posted on May 05, 2008

  • Barry Gardner
    Barry Gardner May 10, 2008

    You should definately solder the wire to the post, it needs to be a
    solid connection. The lines you see are called Retrace Lines. These are
    caused by the horizontal sweeping back to the left. You should adjust
    the Flyback so these lines just disappear. The two controls on the
    Flyback are Screen (usually the Bottom control) and Focus (Top), adjust
    the Screen control down a little. The Flyback is the black transformer
    with the large red lead and suction cup.

    Does the set turn itself off even when there is a picture displayed?


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25pt4323/56rverticalproblom &shutdown


• Troubleshoot Vertical Circuits and shutdown will follow.

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here is your guide in finding the Vertical IC:


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When I turn on the tv, it has a bright white stripe across the screen,no sound and after only a few seconds something inside clicks and the tv turns itself off.....any ideas or time for a new tv. I just...


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Read below and decide if you want to tackle the problem yourself if so I’ll help along the way with what info I have. If not contact the nearest repair shop armed with the info below.

A dead set (no picture no sound) can indicate any number of problems – Usually the set is in shutdown or protection mode – this means that the internal circuits have detected a problem with a supply voltage missing, drawing too much current, going over voltage or a short condition.
The first thing to do is power off the set unplug it for 5min. than replug and try again. This in effect resets the main micro and will sometime unlatch a fault and resume working. There are certain common problems based on the make model – for instance convergence output IC’s(CRT projection TV’s) can cause a dead set symptom in many models. Vertical output IC failure can also cause the same symptom (CRT standard and Projection).
The only way to determine the real cause is :
By an educated guess based on experience or by directly troubleshooting the set – checking fuses, measuring voltages and checking for shorts. Many of the intermittent problems such as, int.(Intermittent) no sound or picture, int. picture shrunken or misshaped. These problems are generally due to cold (bad) solder joints (all TV’s and electronics) that break down under slight temperature changes or vibration and are usually verified by physically tapping the suspected area on the circuit board, or by quickly heating or cooling a suspected component or area ( cold spray and hot air gun). The other main culprit is leaky or dried out capacitors or capacitors that change value depending on temperature. These can sometimes be seen as bulged or leaky and have an acrid odour

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Read below and decide if you want to tackle the problem yourself if so I’ll help along the way with what info I have. If not contact the nearest repair shop armed with the info below.

A dead set (no picture no sound) can indicate any number of problems – Usually the set is in shutdown or protection mode – this means that the internal circuits have detected a problem with a supply voltage missing, drawing too much current, going over voltage or a short condition.
The first thing to do is power off the set unplug it for 5min. than replug and try again. This in effect resets the main micro and will sometime unlatch a fault and resume working. There are certain common problems based on the make model – for instance convergence output IC’s(CRT projection TV’s) can cause a dead set symptom in many models. Vertical output IC failure can also cause the same symptom (CRT standard and Projection).
The only way to determine the real cause is :
By an educated guess based on experience or by directly troubleshooting the set – checking fuses, measuring voltages and checking for shorts. Many of the intermittent problems such as, int.(Intermittent) no sound or picture, int. picture shrunken or misshaped. These problems are generally due to cold (bad) solder joints (all TV’s and electronics) that break down under slight temperature changes or vibration and are usually verified by physically tapping the suspected area on the circuit board, or by quickly heating or cooling a suspected component or area ( cold spray and hot air gun). The other main culprit is leaky or dried out capacitors or capacitors that change value depending on temperature. These can sometimes be seen as bulged or leaky and have an acrid odour.

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1 Answer

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Read below and decide if you want to tackle the problem yourself if so I’ll help along the way with what info I have. If not contact the nearest repair shop armed with the info below.

A dead set (no picture no sound) can indicate any number of problems – Usually the set is in shutdown or protection mode – this means that the internal circuits have detected a problem with a supply voltage missing, drawing too much current, going over voltage or a short condition.
The first thing to do is power off the set unplug it for 5min. than replug and try again. This in effect resets the main micro and will sometime unlatch a fault and resume working. There are certain common problems based on the make model – for instance convergence output IC’s(CRT projection TV’s) can cause a dead set symptom in many models. Vertical output IC failure can also cause the same symptom (CRT standard and Projection).
The only way to determine the real cause is :
By an educated guess based on experience or by directly troubleshooting the set – checking fuses, measuring voltages and checking for shorts. Many of the intermittent problems such as, int.(Intermittent) no sound or picture, int. picture shrunken or misshaped. These problems are generally due to cold (bad) solder joints (all TV’s and electronics) that break down under slight temperature changes or vibration and are usually verified by physically tapping the suspected area on the circuit board, or by quickly heating or cooling a suspected component or area ( cold spray and hot air gun). The other main culprit is leaky or dried out capacitors or capacitors that change value depending on temperature. These can sometimes be seen as bulged or leaky and have an acrid odour.

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Good Day;

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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Good Day, ana4;

Look for fluid on the PCB's, if can't find any, try this:

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1 Answer

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