Question about Pitco Frialator SG14 Deep Fryer

4 Answers

SG-14 backfires when turning on

I have 2 SG-14s and the wire screen at the end of the burners where they hook up to the tank tubes seem to get clogged or burnt looking, causing the fryer to backfire when I turn up the thermostat or turn on the valve quickly. If I take them out and rinse them off, the fryers will start up like new for about a month at max. I even ordered new burners, and that didn't help the problem any further. I'm wondering if this is a design problem and if anyone else has had this same problem. Any suggestions? Thanks, Rick

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  • Anonymous Oct 03, 2008

    THIS BACK FIRE EXPLOSION EPISODE IS SO VERY COMMON IN THESE FRYERS,I WORK IN A HOTEL AND WE HAVE ABOUT 8 OF THESE FRYERS,AND EVERY ONCE AND A WHILE THEY ALL COME ACROSS TO THIS PROBLEM.EVERYTHING IS CLEAN NO AIRWAYS ARE CLOGGED THE AMOUNT OF WATER COLUM IS CORRECT AND IT STILL EXPLODES,THE ONLY CURE THAT I HAVE FOUND IS REPLACING THE GAS VALVE AND THE ELECTRONIC MODULE BOX UNDERNEATH THE FRYER.I THINK THE GAS VALVE IS STICKING AND JUST NOT OPENING ALL THE WAY TO GIVE THE BURST OF PRESSURE NEEDED,THE GAS VALVE IS GETTING THE CORRECT VOLTAGE ALSO.IN FACT I AM WORKING ON ONE RIGHT NOW AT WORK I WILL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT TURNS OUT.10-3-2008



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I seen this problem over and over again, the best and simplest way to fix if to just clean your burners. Removed one by one and get them clean with hot pressure water. Most of the time, this easy and fast job will resolve the problem, and don't forget, get those burners cleaned every 6 mos. It requires a 1/2 in socket.

Posted on Oct 23, 2008

I blow the tubes out with co2 gas runs much cleaner and better performance

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

I HAVE A FRYER SAME MODEL THAT WHEN IT CALLS TO FIRE IT MAKES A VERY LOUD EXPLOSION SOUND.THE PILOT LITES THE GAS COMES ON AND THEN IT EXPLODES BLOWING OUT THE PILOT,IT WILL DO THIS OVER AND OVER AGAIN.EVERYTHING IS CLEAN.MY THOUGHTS ARE THE GAS VALVE IS NOT OPENING ALL THE WAY TO GIVE THE THRUST OF GAS THAT IT NEEDS.

Posted on Jul 26, 2008

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These screens will need cleaned around a 90 day interval It would appear that your problem may be unburned fuel deposits. with a manometer check to verify that the manifold pressures match those on the ID plate. You can either take this reading off the lower side of the gas valve or at the end of the manifold or the center of the manifold depending on your model. After this has been checked you need to check the primary air intakes. you can adjust the air intakes untill you have a blue flame w/white or light blueish looking tips.

Posted on May 31, 2008

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Hello, here is my check list for your most common gas grill lighting problems:

1) Check your tank. Is it empty or nearly empty? The tare weight (T.W.) of your cylinder is stamped on the collar. This is the weight of your empty cylinder, usually around 18 lbs. Weigh it on your bathroom scale2_bing.gif. Propane weighs 4.25 lbs/gal. If it weighs around 20 lbs or less - Refill it. If not, go to #2.

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3) Is the igniter sparking? Some are battery powered-check the battery or replace it. If you have a standard push button piezzo igniter or a rotary style2_bing.gif igniter, check for spark. Can you hear or see the spark? It's hard to see the spark in bright daylight. It's easier to view the spark at dusk or dawn. It should spark an "arc" at the burner. If not, adjust it if necessary. The igniter wire may have a short, causing the spark to arc somewhere else along the wire and not at the burner. Replace igniter wire. It's also possible the igniter tip where it sparks has a cracked or broken porcelain portion of the igniter, causing the spark to not arc at the tip where it's supposed to. Replace the igniter piece. If not, go to #4.

4) You may have a rusted, clogged or damaged burner or venturi tube. With a flashlight, check for spider webs, wasp nests or dirt (mud) dauber nests in the opening of the venturi tube where it connects at each gas valve orifice. Clean it out manually or blow it out with air compressor. Make sure the air adjustment opening (on the end of the burner's venturi tube) has not been changed. If it's closed too much, it will be difficult to light and cause lazy yellow flames. If it's not clogged, the burner may just be old and rusted and the burner holes are not allowing very much gas through anymore. It's also possible the burner has rusted so bad, the burner holes have been enlarged, it is falling apart or has cracks along the burner seams. If so, replace the burner(s) immediately. It is unsafe to use. Your local propane co can usually order the parts you need and some will even do the work, if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself. Bring with you the Make, Model and Serial number of the grill, so they can order the correct parts for your specific grill. Also specify whether it's natural gas2_bing.gif or propane.

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6) Also make sure you have the hose connection tightened snugly to the propane tank valve to ensure the inner valve seat is fully depressed allowing gas to exit fully without any restriction. The black plastic female fitting should be hand tightened only. Older versions that use a left-hand male brass POL valve, requires a 7/8 open end wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten.

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I have a Thermos 461262407 Propane Grill. It will not light, gets good ignition, and I just got a filled propane tank. I don't hear the sound of gas entering the tubes when I turn on the knob. Is it...


Hello, here is a check list for your most common gas grill lighting problems: Hopefully one will solve it for you.

1) Check your tank. Is it empty or nearly empty? The tare weight (T.W.) of your cylinder is stamped on the collar. This is the weight of your empty cylinder, usually around 18 lbs. Weigh it on your bathroom scale2_bing.gif. Propane weighs 4.25 lbs/gal. If it weighs around 20 lbs or less - Refill it. If not, go to #2.

2) Make sure you didn't turn the gas tank valve on too fast. Some gas hoses have a built-in excess flow valve that stops the flow of gas to a trickle if opened too fast. Close the tank valve and let sit for a few minutes. Or just disconnect it and reconnect it. Turn the tank valve very slowly and then try lighting it again. If it doesn't help, go to #3.

3) Is the igniter sparking? Some are battery2_bing.gif powered-check the battery or replace it. If you have a standard push button piezzo igniter or a rotary style2_bing.gif igniter, check for spark. Can you hear or see the spark? It's hard to see the spark in bright daylight. It's easier to view the spark at dusk or dawn. It should spark an "arc" at the burner. If not, adjust it if necessary. The igniter wire may have a short, causing the spark to arc somewhere else along the wire and not at the burner. Replace igniter wire. It's also possible the igniter tip where it sparks has a cracked or broken porcelain portion of the igniter, causing the spark to not arc at the tip where it's supposed to. Replace the igniter piece. If not, go to #4.

4) You may have a rusted, clogged or damaged burner or venturi tube. With a flashlight, check for spider webs, wasp nests or dirt (mud) dauber nests in the opening of the venturi tube where it connects at each gas valve orifice. Clean it out manually or blow it out with air compressor. Make sure the air adjustment opening (on the end of the burner's venturi tube) has not been changed. If it's closed too much, it will be difficult to light and cause lazy yellow flames. If it's not clogged, the burner may just be old and rusted and the burner holes are not allowing very much gas through anymore. It's also possible the burner has rusted so bad, the burner holes have been enlarged, it is falling apart or has cracks along the burner seams. If so, replace the burner(s) immediately. It is unsafe to use. Your local propane co can usually order the parts you need and some will even do the work, if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself. Bring with you the Make, Model and Serial number of the grill, so they can order the correct parts for your specific grill. Also specify whether it's natural gas2_bing.gif or propane.

5) If none of these resolve the issues you are having, it is also possible you have a faulty or defective regulator, which may mean replacement. If the pressure still seems too low and none of the above has helped, and you have a silver/gray regulator; many have an adjustment screw on the top center of the diaphragm. Remove the outer cap and turn the inside screw clockwise in 1/4 turns to increase the pressure until the desired flame size is accomplished. Flames should be as blue as possible, but will burn orange if there is food or drippings on it. Yellow flames are not good, and will soot up everything and not cook as hot as blue flames do. Yellow flames could mean you do not have the right air shutter adjustment, clogged burners, or possibly defective burners, as mentioned above in #4.

6) Also make sure you have the hose connection tightened snugly to the propane tank valve to ensure the inner valve seat is fully depressed allowing gas to exit fully without any restriction. The black plastic female fitting should be hand tightened only. Older versions that use a left-hand male brass POL valve, requires a 7/8 open end wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten.

Hope this helps! Good luck in your trouble shooting! Douglas

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1 Answer

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Hello, here is a check list for your most common gas grill lighting problems. Maybe one will help.

1) Check your tank. Is it empty or nearly empty? The tare weight (T.W.) of your cylinder is stamped on the collar. This is the weight of your empty cylinder, usually around 18 lbs. Weigh it on your bathroom scale2_bing.gif. Propane weighs 4.25 lbs/gal. If it weighs around 20 lbs or less - Refill it. If not, go to #2.

2) Make sure you didn't turn the gas tank valve on too fast. Some gas hoses have a built-in excess flow valve that stops the flow of gas to a trickle if opened too fast. Close the tank valve and let sit for a few minutes. Or just disconnect it and reconnect it. Turn the tank valve very slowly and then try lighting it again. If it doesn't help, go to #3.

3) Is the igniter sparking? Some are battery2_bing.gif powered-check the battery or replace it. If you have a standard push button piezzo igniter or a rotary style2_bing.gif igniter, check for spark. Can you hear or see the spark? It's hard to see the spark in bright daylight. It's easier to view the spark at dusk or dawn. It should spark an "arc" at the burner. If not, adjust it if necessary. The igniter wire may have a short, causing the spark to arc somewhere else along the wire and not at the burner. Replace igniter wire. It's also possible the igniter tip where it sparks has a cracked or broken porcelain portion of the igniter, causing the spark to not arc at the tip where it's supposed to. Replace the igniter piece. If not, go to #4.

4) You may have a rusted, clogged or damaged burner or venturi tube. With a flashlight, check for spider webs, wasp nests or dirt (mud) dauber nests in the opening of the venturi tube where it connects at each gas valve orifice. Clean it out manually or blow it out with air compressor. Make sure the air adjustment opening (on the end of the burner's venturi tube) has not been changed. If it's closed too much, it will be difficult to light and cause lazy yellow flames. If it's not clogged, the burner may just be old and rusted and the burner holes are not allowing very much gas through anymore. It's also possible the burner has rusted so bad, the burner holes have been enlarged, it is falling apart or has cracks along the burner seams. If so, replace the burner(s) immediately. It is unsafe to use. Your local propane co can usually order the parts you need and some will even do the work, if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself. Bring with you the Make, Model and Serial number of the grill, so they can order the correct parts for your specific grill. Also specify whether it's natural gas2_bing.gif or propane.

5) If none of these resolve the issues you are having, it is also possible you have a faulty or defective regulator, which may mean replacement. If the pressure still seems too low and none of the above has helped, and you have a silver/gray regulator; many have an adjustment screw on the top center of the diaphragm. Remove the outer cap and turn the inside screw clockwise in 1/4 turns to increase the pressure until the desired flame size is accomplished. Flames should be as blue as possible, but will burn orange if there is food or drippings on it. Yellow flames are not good, and will soot up everything and not cook as hot as blue flames do. Yellow flames could mean you do not have the right air shutter adjustment, clogged burners, or possibly defective burners, as mentioned above in #4.

6) Also make sure you have the hose connection tightened snugly to the propane tank valve to ensure the inner valve seat is fully depressed allowing gas to exit fully without any restriction. The black plastic female fitting should be hand tightened only. Older versions that use a left-hand male brass POL valve, requires a 7/8 open end wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten.

Hope this helps! Good luck in your trouble shooting! Douglas

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1 Answer

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Ok, here is a check list for your most common gas grill lighting problems: skip #1 is you just filled it.

1) Check your tank. Is it empty or nearly empty? The tare weight (T.W.) of your cylinder is stamped on the collar. This is the weight of your empty cylinder, usually around 18 lbs. Weigh it on your bathroom scale2_bing.gif. Propane weighs 4.25 lbs/gal. If it weighs around 20 lbs or less - Refill it. If not, go to #2.

2) Make sure you didn't turn the gas tank valve on too fast. Some gas hoses have a built-in excess flow valve that stops the flow of gas to a trickle if opened too fast. Close the tank valve and let sit for a few minutes. Or just disconnect it and reconnect it. Turn the tank valve very slowly and then try lighting it again. If it doesn't help, go to #3.

3) Is the igniter sparking? Some are battery2_bing.gif powered-check the battery or replace it. If you have a standard push button piezzo igniter or a rotary style2_bing.gif igniter, check for spark. Can you hear or see the spark? It's hard to see the spark in bright daylight. It's easier to view the spark at dusk or dawn. It should spark an "arc" at the burner. If not, adjust it if necessary. The igniter wire may have a short, causing the spark to arc somewhere else along the wire and not at the burner. Replace igniter wire. It's also possible the igniter tip where it sparks has a cracked or broken porcelain portion of the igniter, causing the spark to not arc at the tip where it's supposed to. Replace the igniter piece. If not, go to #4.

4) You may have a rusted, clogged or damaged burner or venturi tube. With a flashlight, check for spider webs, wasp nests or dirt (mud) dauber nests in the opening of the venturi tube where it connects at each gas valve orifice. Clean it out manually or blow it out with air compressor. Make sure the air adjustment opening (on the end of the burner's venturi tube) has not been changed. If it's closed too much, it will be difficult to light and cause lazy yellow flames. If it's not clogged, the burner may just be old and rusted and the burner holes are not allowing very much gas through anymore. It's also possible the burner has rusted so bad, the burner holes have been enlarged, it is falling apart or has cracks along the burner seams. If so, replace the burner(s) immediately. It is unsafe to use. Your local propane co can usually order the parts you need and some will even do the work, if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself. Bring with you the Make, Model and Serial number of the grill, so they can order the correct parts for your specific grill. Also specify whether it's natural gas2_bing.gif or propane.

5) If none of these resolve the issues you are having, it is also possible you have a faulty or defective regulator, which may mean replacement. If the pressure still seems too low and none of the above has helped, and you have a silver/gray regulator; many have an adjustment screw on the top center of the diaphragm. Remove the outer cap and turn the inside screw clockwise in 1/4 turns to increase the pressure until the desired flame size is accomplished. Flames should be as blue as possible, but will burn orange if there is food or drippings on it. Yellow flames are not good, and will soot up everything and not cook as hot as blue flames do. Yellow flames could mean you do not have the right air shutter adjustment, clogged burners, or possibly defective burners, as mentioned above in #4.

6) Also make sure you have the hose connection tightened snugly to the propane tank valve to ensure the inner valve seat is fully depressed allowing gas to exit fully without any restriction. The black plastic female fitting should be hand tightened only. Older versions that use a left-hand male brass POL valve, requires a 7/8 open end wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten.

Hope this helps! Good luck in your trouble shooting! Douglas

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2 Answers

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Ok, here is a check list for your most common gas grill lighting problems:

1) Check your tank. Is it empty or nearly empty? The tare weight (T.W.) of your cylinder is stamped on the collar. This is the weight of your empty cylinder, usually around 18 lbs. Weigh it on your bathroom scale2_bing.gif. Propane weighs 4.25 lbs/gal. If it weighs around 20 lbs or less - Refill it. If not, go to #2.

2) Make sure you didn't turn the gas tank valve on too fast. Some gas hoses have a built-in excess flow valve that stops the flow of gas to a trickle if opened too fast. Close the tank valve and let sit for a few minutes. Or just disconnect it and reconnect it. Turn the tank valve very slowly and then try lighting it again. If it doesn't help, go to #3.

3) Is the igniter sparking? Some are battery2_bing.gif powered-check the battery or replace it. If you have a standard push button piezzo igniter or a rotary style2_bing.gif igniter, check for spark. Can you hear or see the spark? It's hard to see the spark in bright daylight. It's easier to view the spark at dusk or dawn. It should spark an "arc" at the burner. If not, adjust it if necessary. The igniter wire may have a short, causing the spark to arc somewhere else along the wire and not at the burner. Replace igniter wire. It's also possible the igniter tip where it sparks has a cracked or broken porcelain portion of the igniter, causing the spark to not arc at the tip where it's supposed to. Replace the igniter piece. If not, go to #4.

4) You may have a rusted, clogged or damaged burner or venturi tube. With a flashlight, check for spider webs, wasp nests or dirt (mud) dauber nests in the opening of the venturi tube where it connects at each gas valve orifice. Clean it out manually or blow it out with air compressor. Make sure the air adjustment opening (on the end of the burner's venturi tube) has not been changed. If it's closed too much, it will be difficult to light and cause lazy yellow flames. If it's not clogged, the burner may just be old and rusted and the burner holes are not allowing very much gas through anymore. It's also possible the burner has rusted so bad, the burner holes have been enlarged, it is falling apart or has cracks along the burner seams. If so, replace the burner(s) immediately. It is unsafe to use. Your local propane co can usually order the parts you need and some will even do the work, if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself. Bring with you the Make, Model and Serial number of the grill, so they can order the correct parts for your specific grill. Also specify whether it's natural gas2_bing.gif or propane.

5) If none of these resolve the issues you are having, it is also possible you have a faulty or defective regulator, which may mean replacement. If the pressure still seems too low and none of the above has helped, and you have a silver/gray regulator; many have an adjustment screw on the top center of the diaphragm. Remove the outer cap and turn the inside screw clockwise in 1/4 turns to increase the pressure until the desired flame size is accomplished. Flames should be as blue as possible, but will burn orange if there is food or drippings on it. Yellow flames are not good, and will soot up everything and not cook as hot as blue flames do. Yellow flames could mean you do not have the right air shutter adjustment, clogged burners, or possibly defective burners, as mentioned above in #4.

6) Also make sure you have the hose connection tightened snugly to the propane tank valve to ensure the inner valve seat is fully depressed allowing gas to exit fully without any restriction. The black plastic female fitting should be hand tightened only. Older versions that use a left-hand male brass POL valve, requires a 7/8 open end wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten.

Hope this helps! Good luck in your trouble shooting! Douglas

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1 Answer

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Here, try my trouble shooting checklist and see if one of them works for the most common gas grill lighting problems:

1) Check your tank. Is it empty or nearly empty? The tare weight (T.W.) of your cylinder is stamped on the collar. This is the weight of your empty cylinder, usually around 18 lbs. Weigh it on your bathroom scale2_bing.gif. Propane weighs 4.25 lbs/gal. If it weighs around 20 lbs or less - Refill it. If not, go to #2.

2) Make sure you didn't turn the gas tank valve on too fast. Some gas hoses have a built-in excess flow valve that stops the flow of gas to a trickle if opened too fast. Close the tank valve and let sit for a few minutes. Or just disconnect it and reconnect it. Turn the tank valve very slowly and then try lighting it again. If it doesn't help, go to #3.

3) Is the igniter sparking? Some are battery2_bing.gif powered-check the battery or replace it. If you have a standard push button piezzo igniter or a rotary style2_bing.gif igniter, check for spark. Can you hear or see the spark? It's hard to see the spark in bright daylight. It's easier to view the spark at dusk or dawn. It should spark an "arc" at the burner. If not, adjust it if necessary. The igniter wire may have a short, causing the spark to arc somewhere else along the wire and not at the burner. Replace igniter wire. It's also possible the igniter tip where it sparks has a cracked or broken porcelain portion of the igniter, causing the spark to not arc at the tip where it's supposed to. Replace the igniter piece. If not, go to #4.

4) You may have a rusted, clogged or damaged burner or venturi tube. With a flashlight, check for spider webs, wasp nests or dirt (mud) dauber nests in the opening of the venturi tube where it connects at each gas valve orifice. Clean it out manually or blow it out with air compressor. Make sure the air adjustment opening (on the end of the burner's venturi tube) has not been changed. If it's closed too much, it will be difficult to light and cause lazy yellow flames. If it's not clogged, the burner may just be old and rusted and the burner holes are not allowing very much gas through anymore. It's also possible the burner has rusted so bad, the burner holes have been enlarged, it is falling apart or has cracks along the burner seams. If so, replace the burner(s) immediately. It is unsafe to use. Your local propane co can usually order the parts you need and some will even do the work, if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself. Bring with you the Make, Model and Serial number of the grill, so they can order the correct parts for your specific grill. Also specify whether it's natural gas2_bing.gif or propane.

5) If none of these resolve the issues you are having, it is also possible you have a faulty or defective regulator, which may mean replacement. If the pressure still seems too low and none of the above has helped, and you have a silver/gray regulator; many have an adjustment screw on the top center of the diaphragm. Remove the outer cap and turn the inside screw clockwise in 1/4 turns to increase the pressure until the desired flame size is accomplished. Flames should be as blue as possible, but will burn orange if there is food or drippings on it. Yellow flames are not good, and will soot up everything and not cook as hot as blue flames do. Yellow flames could mean you do not have the right air shutter adjustment, clogged burners, or possibly defective burners, as mentioned above in #4.

6) Also make sure you have the hose connection tightened snugly to the propane tank valve to ensure the inner valve seat is fully depressed allowing gas to exit fully without any restriction. The black plastic female fitting should be hand tightened only. Older versions that use a left-hand male brass POL valve, requires a 7/8 open end wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten.

Hope this helps! Good luck in your trouble shooting! Douglas

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Weber Genesis Gold B Grill Problem


Could be partially clogged burner openings (jets).
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Before replacing the flavorizer bars and cooking grates, ignite all burner tubes and check to see the flames are all of about equal length and intensity.
If this isn't the problem, check the screens at the right-side ends of the burner tubes to be sure they're not clogged.
If the burner tubes are all clean and some don't ever ignite, the problem could be in the valves/manifold.

Jun 17, 2008 | Weber Genesis Gold B Grill

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