Question about NEC Televison & Video

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I HAVE A MON50A-PL-S AND IT STARTED TAKING ABOUT A MINUTE TO WARM UP.IT USED TO SHOW THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE SCREEN AND AFTER THE MINUTE, I WOULD TURN IT OFF THEN BACK ON AND ALL WAS WELL. IT THEN BECAME 1 1/2 MINUTES THEN IT NEVER BECAME A FULL SCREEN AGAIN. I WAS TOLD IT MAY BE THE POWER SUPPLY. IT IS AN OLDER SET AND I DON'T TO SPEND TOO VERY MUCH ON IT. I KNOW SOMEONE WHO COULD CHANGE OUT THE POWER SUPPLY BUT WE WANT AN ACCURATE DIAGNOSIS. PLEASE FIND OUT IF THIS IS THE LIKELY CAUSE.

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  • george1010 Aug 26, 2010

    Thank you for your reply to my question however, I am looking at the top of the form that your reply is written with and my ocular sense tells all that it says it is an NEC television. The question I'm looking at above your courteous reply says " I HAVE A MON50A-PL-S AND ( I don't know how that AND got in there but I hardly SENSE that to be a PROBLEM) problem with the NEC Flat Panel Television".
    I know these Question and Answer things can leave out information we often actually did put in. In this case you said I failed to leave a brand name so I want you to know it is an NEC and the label on the back only says MON50A-PL-S. Perhaps this part of the Email wasn't sent to you. Until recently, this tv worked just fine until it came on with only the bottom half and very messy. The top half was blank. By accident I found that if I turned off the switch under neath and in the front of the set (we don't have a remote control) it would turn on and work just fine.
    This went on for about a month as it seemed to require on and off operations repeatedly just to get it to work for one time. Then we realized that what it needed was to be on for a longer and longer time before we turn it off and turn it back on. We had to wait five minutes with the half screen then turn it off then on and presto. It worked as long as we didn't turn it off.
    Next, it had to stay on for longer and longer time (up to twenty minutes with a half screen before turning it off and back on then presto it would work.
    Now, it doesn't matter how long we wait after we first turn it on, when we turn it off then back on it stays a bottom half screen picture. Whatever was barely working to make it show the whole screen finally gave out.
    I tried to write the question as short as possible in the original form because I doubt anyone wants to read all this and as a non tech we often think a lot of unimportant info is important. But often techs don't need long winded descriptions. Such may be the case here. I am trying to address the facts you mentioned. Please advise.

  • george1010 Aug 26, 2010

    Yes, I believe this tech really knows about this problem. Now it is up to whichever friend wants it for free bad enough to put money in it. Otherwise it goes in the dumpster. We finally got another set. It was very good advice,thank you and I would do this again for other problems.
    While I believe the diagnosis, I do know the most accurate possible will be done by the tech actually seeing the set of course. This is good enough for now.

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  • NEC Master
  • 3,866 Answers

First of all you want a 100 percent straight bonified diagnoses but you fail to leave a brand and left a incomplete or incorrect model number.

A power supply would cause this issues and even more issues like not even turning on. From what it sounds like is you got a couple bad eletrolytic capacitors that are not filling causing the screen not to become full and taking a while to "warm up".

But you mention you have no alot of money to fix, so this brings me to the conclusion to "stay away" but i went ahead and tryed to give it a shot for the much it was worth to "help you".

I would love to give you a 1000 percent answer but what we have here is "limited" because of our "5 sense" are not intacted because we simply are not there!

I would if I where you is have someone that knows SEE my diagnosis here and talk with me on "what" they see and feel, touch and smell. Sound Fair?

I would love to take this as a FREE question that way I am not effected by a bad rating or a desatisfied Cllent. Let me put it this way for the amount you paid for a 100 percent answer I would say change out the power supply you be glad you did.

DO NOT SHOOT THE MESSENGER!

Please do be considerate of my long distance diagnosis based on your chief complaint by clicking the "accept button".

If you do not like my answer, or just do not like the way I "express my self" Other experts are standing by. What that means to me is I just basically done all this preaching for nothing :(

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

  • Grand Canyon Tech
    Grand Canyon Tech Aug 26, 2010

    Out weighing the facts here in this case, The power supply would be the "part to look at" They call this the G board. I cal ll it to be funny the G spot. Because if you tap it in the right place it will be happy again.



    We as TV experts often call this G- spot because that is where the honey pot of problems are. It has your fly back transformer, Your huge electrolytic capacitors on that G board and over time they could Swell taking the tv longer to fill those little guys with energy to power the rest of the set. You case the fly back transformer is not getting what it needs to the deflection board witch causes this issue.



    So with all this diagnosis without seeing the TV the G-board would be your problem area. This is like playing Doctor with a blind fold while the patient is wanting 100 percent dead on accurate so I call it as I do not see it but only as I hear it in your case. Like i said previously "do not shoot the meesenger" You paid $6 for some professional advice and I feel you got more then $6.00 worth.



    Its now up to you. This G board would cost *90 bucks so with your labor at 80 or so bucks you might just want to pack up that little burger and get yourself a newer model.



    With that said I bid you good luck.



    Please do click the accept button for my efforts.

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