I have a diesel NS- 1600 amp and it will not come on at all the fuses are good its grounded correctly, at first i figured it was a faulty remote wire so i've change it and i still cant get my amp to come on, any thoughts? and thanks
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: NS- 1600 amp
You need to use a multimeter to confirm that you have a good ground and sufficient voltage on the B+ and remote wires. I'll assume that you've checked the on-board fuses (if it has them).
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v and the amp does nothing, the amp probably has a blown power supply.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Most amps have 3 places where you need to hook up wires to power them. the 1st is a ground wire that at best is 1 foot long and it goes on the ground or negative 12 volt connection then a bolt on the car you may need to sand off the paint for it to work, 2 a RMT or remote wire that is normally in the middle of the power and the ground connections the remote turns the amp on and off so it needs to go to the remote wire on the radio or a ignition spot on the fuse box - turns on with key on and off when you turn the key off , 3 the power wire is hopefully large 4 gauge wire and goes to the + 12 volt plug on the amp this wire has a in line fuse and goes to the battery and to the amp only. RCA wires go from the radio to the amp and are round and just plug in with no screws some factory radios need a conversion kit you can get at walmart for RCA wires. the speaker wires have some sort of mark or line to tell you what to put were like if you put the line on a negative on the amp you need to put the line on the negative on the speaker box to or it will not bass and could hurt your amp. ask me if you need anything else :) and please rate :/
have power? continuity tester available at stereo shop and retail stores. one end goes on your power wire, the other on a good ground. have a good ground? i found under the big bolt that hold the seat belt in place works good in most cars/trucks. make sure your remote wire is turned on. check fuses in the amp.
1.verify connections...Make sure your ground wire is grounded to a location on the body where you will sand the paint away to make good metal to metal contact.
2.with a volt meter check for battery voltage on the red wire of the amp as close to the amp as possible.verify that your remote or trigger wire from the radio (blue wire) id connected to the remote terminal of the amp.. turn on key switch, turn on radio and see if amp powers up. if no then verify 12 vdc at the remote terminal of amp, very 12vdc at red power wire. verify ground. If all this is good i would suspect you have a faulty amp.
Bad ground sounds like you may have paint or undercoating stopping the ground from making good contact or unhook the remote wire and run a small wire from the main power to the remote hook up and see if it works ...... May have a faulty remote
The Amp Is Most Likely In Protection Mode... 2 Ways To Figure Out Whats Wrong With it Is Check Every Single Wire And Make Sure That Every thing Is Hooked Up Correct And There Are No Bad Connections With Ur Remote Wire, Ground Wire, And Battery 12v Wire, Rca Cables As Well. If Every Thing Checks Out Good Then Try Checking The Fuses And Make Sure u Are Using The Correct Fuses That Are Good For That Amp. If U try These 2 Things And You No Your Subs Are Hooked Up Correctly Then The Worst Is Probably There. I Had The Pioneer 7200 Amp And It was A Blown Amp And The Red Light was Constantly On. No Sound No Nothing. If U Try Those Steps And it Still Does Not Work Then Most likely Your Amplifier Is Toast. Hope This Helps :-)
the wire from your battery is blowing fuses? and you are using 20-30 A fuses? mine has a 100A fuse..look into getting new wire plus my wire is 4 gauge.., 1600 watts is too powerful for a 12 g wire and a 30 A fuse
Sounds like the amp is shorting somehow. You are obviously shorting out somewhere between the battery and the amp. Are you sure you grounding location is a good one? is the fuse blowing only when you turn the stereo on? Something is not hooked up correctly.
If the fuse at the battery is blowing then it's a short.
If the fuse on the amp is blowing then its probably a bad amp.
With out being given much information to work with I can only give you a basic run down of what the problem might be. It sounds like the MOSFET amplifiers have blown out on those channels that are not working. Did your system become ungrounded at some point while it was playing, and or did you have some kind of power surge?
Let me know the conditions under which the problem happened and I might be able to provide a better analysis.
a) check your ground b) check your remote wire c) (this is the one you really don't want it to be) it is possible that your vehicle can not supply the required power to the amp, if this is the case a bigger battery and better altinater will probably be your only options or possibly a capacitor thrown into the wiring