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I need to remove and replase the arbor housing from main base, any idea how to take the housing off?

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  • brad783 Aug 21, 2010

    this is a sears craftsman table saw. I got a new arbor housing but cannot remove the old one. Need help

  • brad783 Aug 21, 2010

    if it was that easy I would not have paid $18.00 for the advice. I don't think you know what I mean. There is no allen screw holding this piece in place.

  • brad783 Aug 21, 2010

    There is no allen screw for the housing. Do you understand what my problem is?

  • brad783 Aug 21, 2010

    I have an older craftsman 10" tabel saw (Model: 113.298031) and the part listed in the parts list that I am replacing is; part #52, 3509, Housing,Arbor. I cannot remove the broken part from the main assmebly (not sure how it is held in place). I need help in removing the broken part and replace it with the new part. If you need to see a diagram I can email it to you. Thanks.

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Hello Brad. Here is an excellent link that shows how to do this task in a common table saw. If you know what brand and model you have I can give you a more specific answer. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/10325

J.

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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On most table saws a allen wrench is needed to remove the arbor

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

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  • frank thomas wilson
    frank thomas wilson Aug 22, 2010

    Also your may have a double nut holding it place. If the model and name was shown much better help can be presented to you

  • frank thomas wilson
    frank thomas wilson Aug 22, 2010



    The link below you will need to copy and paste it to a new browser window

    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...

    Click onto the fourth link for complete illustrations of this saw and the ARBOR

  • frank thomas wilson
    frank thomas wilson Aug 22, 2010

    Copy and paste this link below to open this web page

    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...

    Upon retrieving this web page click onto the 4th line to pull up the Sears Owners Manual for this saw. It will have exploded photos of it showing the Arbor towards the very end of the manual

  • frank thomas wilson
    frank thomas wilson Aug 22, 2010

    The exploded views of this manual should help you very well
    Good luck

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I bought an Ammco 4000 brake lathe and the arbor was not installed in it. The one they gave me has surface rust on it. It will not fit into the spindle either. I'm not sure on got the correct one. What is...


A standard arbor which you should have been provided with should look like this...

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The standard arbor size is 1 inch.
A used arbor is okay--but if it has rust on it, you should remove the rust with a wire-wheel mounted on a bench grinder (and be sure to use eye protection because fast spinning wire-wheels routinely throw off wires).

Any arbor (especially new arbors) have to be lapped into the spindle using a fine lapping compound which can be easily found at auto parts stores.

Apply a small amount of lapping compound onto the mating surface of the arbor and insert it into the spindle with the machine turning. Hold the arbor tight and let the lapping compound grind away for about 40 seconds.

Remove the arbor and reapply another small amount of lapping compound--repeat the grinding process one more time. Remove the arbor and using a rag clean the lapping compound from the arbor.

Clean the lapping compound from the outer spindle seat. The outer seat is easily accessed--the inner seat of the spindle is harder to access. This is cleaned by doubling a rag over the threaded end of the arbor. Holding the rag, insert the threaded end into the spindle and clean the inner seat.

Turn off the machine and insert the arbor into the spindle. Insert the spindle "draw bar" (which you should also have) through the hole in the drum gear box (Infimatic gearbox) on the right hand side of the machine.

Holding the drive pulley, tighten the draw bar.

Next you have to check the arbor run-out using a magnetically mounted dial indicator as shown....

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Mount the dial indicator on the machine's twin cutter (tightened down) and crank in the disc-feed carriage until the dial indicator can make contact with the arbor.

Start the machine. The arbor run-out should be no more than 1 1/2 thousandths. If the run-out exceeds greater than 8 thousandths it cannot be straightened. Arbor with slight run-out problems can be straightened.

(Note: If the dial indicator vibrates too much to get a reading--you will have to manually turn the machine using a wrench as described below).

First try loosening the draw bar, and rotating the arbor 180 degrees and then re-tightening the draw-bar. Many time this will solve the problem or at the very least lessen the run-out or bring it within spec.

If the arbor is still exceeds spec, then you have to straighten it. To straighten an arbor, manually turn the machine with the "Ammco wrench" (which you should also have) using the nut on the draw bar. Turn the machine until you find the high spot (straight up), then remove the dial indicator to prevent damage.

Using a copper dead blow hammer, give the arbor a modest whack, and then recheck the run-out. Repeat the process until you manage to get the arbor within spec.

Please note that straightening an arbor using this method will sometimes break the arbor off. You are rolling the dice when straightening an arbor--but this is the nature of the animal. Even brand new arbors sometimes need straightening.

If you need more questions answered contact us at...

http://www.brakelathe.net/

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1 Answer

Must remove arbor housing form pin connecting ito to the cradle


if you can post some pictures, I think I can help you. If you removed the pin there should be nothing holding it from moving. if it is threaded on, try to turn it in the opposite direction than it turns to work in. could you also post the make and model number so I can locate a guide.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Hi, we have a AMMCO 7750 brake lathe, the problem is runout in the ARBOR we have replaced the arbor but still have the same result. We are unsure of hat is causing this so any help or advise would be...


First off--your model Ammco is their "El-Cheapo" model.
Yeah, they work, when they work that is.
I doubt that your problem lies within the spindle bearings. But it could-- I suggest that you tug on the spindle to see if you get any back and forth end-play, or up and down play.... if so, you are screwed. This machine is not worth the effort, money and time fix this problem.

As for the arbor...

This model uses the same arbor that the better 3000, 4000, 4100, 7000 and 7100 models.

Every time you replace an arbor (new or used) you have to...

A. Lap the arbor into the spindle using lapping compound (just like lapping valves in a cylinder head) The lapping compound is then cleaned out of the spindle and off the arbor, then...

B. You then have to check the "runout" with a dial indicator. These are obtained cheaply at Harbor Freight FYI. With the dial indicator mounted (magnetically) on the twin-cutter check the arbor run-out. The runout (two inches from the spindle) should be no more than 1 1/2 thousandths. One thousandth or under is optimal. Any reading over 8 thousandths cannot be straightened.

C. If the run out exceeds 1 1/2 thousandths, you have to then straighten the arbor.

To straighten the arbor you will again need the dial-indicator and a heavy copper hammer....

With a wrench on the end of the draw bar (far right on the end of the drum gearbox), rotate the machine (counter clockwise) until you find the high spot on the arbor (carefully watching the dial-indicator).

Remove the dial indicator and give the arbor a whack with the hammer (not too hard if this is your first time) when the high spot is directly straight up.

Install the dial-indicator and check the run-out again.

Sometimes you will get it on the first whack--sometimes you will have to go through an ordeal until you get the arbor in spec.

And remember--sometimes you can bust the arbor completely off on the first whack. They are hardened and allegedly tempered, but some are more hard than others. If it breaks off--tough luck. You need to get another arbor.

I have personally straightened arbors more than 30 thousandths out (once)... and I don't want to repeat that ordeal. Sometimes arbors cannot be straightened (bent in strange ways) and cannot be straightened.

When loosening a rotor, do not allow the work to dump onto the arbor. This is the main reason they go out of whack.

Buy Sell Used Brake Lathes Brake Lathe Parts

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you can pull the arbor off with a pulley. you can get that from auto parts store.

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