Question about GE Adora DVM1850 Microwave Oven

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Control pad is dead - GE Adora DVM1850 Microwave Oven

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  • GE Master
  • 9,047 Answers

Dead, meaning no display, no light when you open the door and no beeps when you press a pad on the keypad?

Is the outlet working?

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille, on the floor of the oven behind the control panel, between the door switches, or on the filter board near where the cord comes into the unit.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

This model has a bottom TCO, a 20A fuse, a cavity TCO, and a magnetron (MGT) TCO.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

This would indicate a bad magnetron or a bad cooling fan.

When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

So don't let that fool you.

To check some thermostats, you'll need to pull the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

control pad is dead - 459e194.jpg

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 23, 2010

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  • William Miller
    William Miller Aug 23, 2010

    I neglected to mention that if the inside light comes on when you open the door, but it's otherwise unresponsive, it's not "dead" but it may be a bad membrane keypad.

    On some models you can order & replace the keypad itself.

    If you (or someone you
    know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a
    handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically
    involved.

    If you would like to
    have us
    do this repair for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs nationwide.


    In other models, you have to order a control panel frame which comes with a new keypad.

    That's actually a pretty easy do it yourself job.

    At
    our Web site
    , we have a video available showing how to remove a typical
    over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.


    Next, disconnect the strip as shown in the photo below, then remove the screws that hold your circuit board in the old frame.



    Then
    carefully (since the display is made of glass) move your
    circuit board to the new frame, and reassembly is the reverse of
    disassembly.


    See this link to see which is available for your model.

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You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

Here's a YouTube video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.


We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

We would need the model number to help you further, but would be happy to give you more DIY tips.

Chances are we can point you to the service manual online.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

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There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

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At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

See:
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

You can also find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

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If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

At our site, we now have a video available showing how to remove a typical control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

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If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder.

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If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

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If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

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If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or fuse holder.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

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If it's random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or fuse holder.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

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