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I Have a Heatline Compact combination boiler That is noisy IE:- The diverter motor chatters.So I changed the diverter plunger With a new replacement kit.But it was still the same.So I bought a new diverter valve motor to no avail can anyone point me in the right direction

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  • jim_shep Aug 22, 2010

    Yes it is the same in hot water only & central heating

    In the water only mode the motor still chatters even though it is not calling for hot water

  • jim_shep Aug 22, 2010

    Could it be a pressure sensor problem

    If I put my ear to the diverter motor it seems to be coming from there.If I turn the hot water on I get a continuos pressure noa a spluttering type ?

  • jim_shep Aug 23, 2010

    IHave Been asked to refer this problem to another expect as it was not his forte

  • jim_shep Aug 24, 2010

    Hi Kirk

    I replaced the the old parts the same as removed but asI dont have a schematic on the lay out

    I just assumed I was replacing like for like I dont suppose you have a diagram of the correct insallation of the repair kit so I can double check

  • jim_shep Aug 30, 2010




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Does it make noise in both modes, heater and hot water?
Is it the same at all heat settings?

Your problem may be due to hydro water flow switch.
Try putting 2 pieces of plastic pipes in the cold and hot feed pipes to reduce the transmission of the noise.
Also make sure your not putting more than 9 liters a min through the boiler
You may need to reduce water pressure.
If it is the heater function that is noisy, there may be something clogging the system, and it should be cleaned and back flushed.
Your water supply system may also need an air compression tank to reduce water hammer effects. Water has momentum and it is hard to stop flow quickly without a compressible chamber to absorb the kinetic energy.

Tell me more and I may be able to give a better answer.

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin Aug 22, 2010

    If the motor chatters even when there is no water demand, then it seems to me the motor is running all the time, even after the valve is closed, as if it thinks it is still open.
    But I am not familiar enough with the exact system to be able to say if it is out of adjustment or if there is a sensor to give it feedback when it is supposed to be closed.

    When I try to look up the valve, I don't get much information.
    They suggest draining the heating loop, since that is closed normally and can build up sludge and contaminants that can block the normal diverter operation.

    Sorry, this is not my specialty, and maybe someone else has more experience.

  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin Aug 23, 2010

    You may want to copy all of the conversation so far into public space, since no one else can see the comments I have made so far.
    It may save a little time and stimulate ideas.
    For example, most of what I read says draining and flushing the heat loop is important, because sludge or debris can clog the valve and prevent it from closing all the way.
    This would give the exact symptoms you are getting.
    But since you already replaced the valve once, you should have seen the condition of the heat loop.
    Was it clean looking, or contaminated?
    Telling people that will make it easier for them to figure out the problem.

    By the way, are you sure you did not put the valve in backwards regarding any of the connections?
    That would also give the noise symptoms.

  • jim_shep Aug 29, 2010

    Hi Kirk
    Just to let you know that I have solved the problem.
    it seems that the spindle with the plunger repair kit was wrong I took the kit bck to suppliers who confirmed this fitted the new one

  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin Aug 29, 2010

    Good to know you got it fixed.



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