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I have a washburn mercury guitar i bought cheep. it would only work at full volume though. i purchased a new 250K volume pot and a new 5 position toggle switch fo pickups. tried rewiring, but think someone was here before since I had no luck following previous wiring. my guitar has: single front pickup, single middle pickup, and a rear humbucker. 1 volume pot, and a single push/pull tone knob. I can rewire it, but I need a diagram. please help me. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE- Jeremy

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  • dogpound85 Aug 21, 2010

    my problem is not with my strings, which happen to be new Ernieball hybrid slinky's. My problem is my guitar needs rewired, so I need a wiring diagram. Thank you anyways

  • dogpound85 Aug 22, 2010

    I accept His guidance to the following sources, but I didnt get what I was looking for, which was a wiring diagram. I guess $6 doesn't get much these days.

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2 Answers

Jeremy,

Post your question on these forums, you will have much better luck finding your diagram

http://forums.washburn.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12622

http://www.guitarsite.com/database/Resources/rec/5269/wwwboard/messages/87.shtml

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

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Follow these steps:
•1
Head to your local music shop and pick out a new set of guitar strings. If you can find a guitar player working at the shop (which shouldn't be too hard), start up a conversation about the type of playing you do and the guitar you own. The guitar tech will be able to point you in the direction of a variety of guitar string brands, including Ernie Ball, Elixir and D'Addario.
•2
Consider strings made of a variety of materials. Most strings consist of a metal wire wrapped with a second wire. Wrap wire can be made of nickel, stainless steel or bronze. Bronze will provide a warm tone suitable for electric guitars, while steel will give a brighter or metallic tone. Nickel wraps provide a well-rounded tone suitable for most play styles.
•3
Remove the strings from your guitar by loosening the tensioning rods at the guitar's head. Each string should be loosened gradually before removing them entirely, or you risk warping the neck of some guitars. Take the time to polish the guitar while the strings are out of your way. Olive oil makes a great fret board polish.
•4
Start with one of the outside strings and secure it to the bridge. Run the string through the nut and the tuning peg with about two inches protruding beyond the peg. Bend the string underneath itself and create an upward angle in it to keep it in place. Turn the tuning peg clockwise while using a guitar tuner to achieve the right pitch.
•5
Stretch the string up from its midpoint to increase the tuning stability of the string, and retune. Repeat until the string stops becoming detuned. New strings will have extra stretchiness that must be removed before you begin to play. Cut off any excess string protruding from the tuning peg.

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

  • Jayant Jha Aug 22, 2010

    Please follow these steps :

    1• Find a clean, well-lighted surface free from dust. Place your guitar in a position where you can easily access the main body cavity, where the wiring you will fix is located. Depending on your model of guitar, this will either be under the pickguard, such as on a Fender Stratocaster, or behind a removable panel on the back of the guitar, such as on Les Paul models and their clones.

    •2 Zero in on the main body cavity and go to work with a small Phillips screwdriver, being careful not to lose or strip any of the screws. If your guitar's main body cavity is under the pickguard, loosen and remove all the strings. This is often not necessary to remove the pickguard itself, but once you get inside, those strings will surely get in the way of what you are doing.

    After every screw has been removed and set aside, carefully remove the panel covering the main body cavity.

    •3 Run your fingers along each of the wires slowly and carefully. If your guitar has simply stopped responding, or doesn't produce any sound when switched between certain pickups, the problem can be in a few different places. The most likely culprit is the wiring headed toward the instrument cable input. These wires can easily become broken or twisted out of place as the guitar is moved and cables are often quickly pushed in and out, or twisted around.

    The same goes for your volume and tone pots. If the pots themselves have gone bad, more intensive repairs are necessary, which are best left to a professional. But it is likely that the problem will simply be a wire that has broken free at one end from its intended connection.

    •4 Completely remove any portion of the wire that is hanging onto its contact. Pull it free if it is still partially hanging on, but be very careful because these wires are very delicate. Use your wire cutters to cut off a small portion of the wire that has become broken or frayed, until there is no metal sticking out from within the wire's plastic casing. Be careful not to snip off so much of the wire that it will no longer reach its target. You are usually given a good length of wire to spare.

    •5 Use a wire stripping tool, or a pocket knife if you do not have a wire stripper, to strip about 3/4 inch of the plastic casing protecting the wire. This is about the time you should plug in your soldering iron, and have lead-free solder at ready while the soldering iron heats up. While stripping the wire, especially if you are using a blade, make sure not to cut the very fine threads. If these become scored or uneven, your problem will likely come back.

    •6 Wrap the exposed wire carefully around its contact a couple of times. Wrap it tightly so that it holds in place on its own, but make sure there is enough slack so that it is tension-free. Your soldering iron should be hot enough by this time.

    •7 Hold the soldering iron physically touching where the wire connects to its contact on your guitar (don't worry, it will not damage these harder metals), lightly touch a strip of lead-free solder to the tip of the iron. Touch the solder to the iron, not the other way around; it is easier to control this way. Wait until the solder heats up enough that it starts to flow, and let the soft, hot metal run around the wire and its contact, until you have a nice little glob that nearly covers the whole area.



    You have to work quickly here. Set the solder down, and apply the iron directly to the bit of solder now covering the wire. You just want to touch it there for a second, until it runs all over the contact, completely covering the contact and the tip of the wire. If there is not enough to cover, take your stick of solder out and flow a little more into place.

    •8 Set your soldering iron down on a surface where the tip can sit free in the air, then let the hot metal cool down hard. Leave it for several minutes before you attempt to move anything around. Carefully plug a cable into the guitar's instrument cable input and into an amplifier. The idea is to test out your repair to see if you have isolated the problem, before you start closing things back up.

    If you get a tone and your guitar has full functionality again, give yourself a pat on the back. You have fixed the problem and saved a good bit of money in the process. If not, carefully search for any more broken or frayed wires. If there is none, you will likely need to take your guitar into a professional, as further repairs are beyond the scope of the average hobbyist.

    •9 Replace the main body cavity's covering, screw all the screws into lace, and rock on.

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