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sure if you have a big enough power supply to keep it running! Your looking at either a car battery that will need to be constantly charged up or buying a power supply that will cost way more than any regular house amplfer wiill ever cost you unless iit's super hgh end. (I have a bad I key on my keyboard sorry about that.) The power supply needed for a car amp will have to be able to put out between 11.5 to 15.0 Volts constantly and supply a constant current or Amp ratiing between 25A to 150A to keep the amp from frying depending on how big of an amp you're talking about. A 14.4 volt 25A power supply can power a Class AB amplfer that has a total output of 250 Watts, Thats like equal to 3 regular Battery Chargers working together at full output! They wouldn't last very long if even be able to do kit for more than 1 hour before melting or shutting down. So as you see a power supply to power car amps will have to be rated very high even for a small wattage amplfer. You get up near 1000 watts and you'll go broke trying to buy a power supply that can keep it runnng, they are not cheap by any means, I cannot even imagiine what a 14.4 Volt constant 100 amp 100% duty cycle output power supply would cost, my guess would be between $500 to $1000. Even a typical stick welder s limted to around 30 Volts 30 Amps and 30% duty cycle drawing from 220 volts! They arn't cheap and what you would need has to be way better than that. So, yes, you can but how much is it worth to you to do it safely? That's why they make home stereos.
Probably due to the power supply is limited in it's power output. I'll bet it's not much higher than a 10 amp rating at 12 volts, the amp is designed to work with 14,4 volts and will draw at least 20 amps meaning it will take 300 watts of power to run that amp. If you limit the current to 10 amps that means it will need 30 volts to make up for the amperage that isn't there. Since your power supply cannot do that it just puts out what it can and ends up at the bare minimum before your amp will just shut off.
The 3.4 should be for the microprocessor area and comes from the standby portion of the power supply-----that voltage should be on all the time so look carefully where it comes from---some sets use a op-amp IC to switch it on etc and others a relay---
Like a car with no power or voltage start at the battery working outwards.
With that voltage missing the set should have no operation at all.
With voltage step down power supplies, output power is more important than data plate output V (volts). V times output A (data-plate amps) equals output Watts (or VA) under normal load. If the voltages are close and the output watts (VA) are very close (one or two watts) you are in luck as long as the connector is same size; AND THE POLARITY (+ & -) IS THE SAME for the old and replacement unit!
Ohm's law tells us that: volts = amps x resistance and watts =volts x amps. Watts (300) = volts (240) x Amps (?); or 300 / 240 = 1.25 Amps That means the inverter can supply up to 1.25 Amps to a 240 volt load.
The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!
Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.
I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.
open the back cover of you tv you can see the power supply there.using a multitester measure the output of the power supply wether there is 5 volts output...check the connectors specially the RGB fit them to the terminals...the power supply outputs are 5v,12v,and 24 volts if one of them is missing replace the power supply..
What??? There is NO output transformer for the Mg50DFX. The outputs are direct driven from hybrid stick TDA type solid state amp chips.
The power transformet is probably about 100 watt size and supplies two voltages... one that feeds a +/- 15 volt three terminal regulators... Probably 22 volts +/- to the regualtors and the other supply will be unregulated to the power amp chips.
Replace the power supply. These are not to hard to get from goodwill for a buck. Bring your old one so you can find one with the correct power output. (5 volts dc at 2 amps usually)
Good Luck. 
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