Question about Dell E193FPC 19" TFT LCD Flat Panel Monitor

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My dell LCD screen is not working. I used to have to unplug and replug the monitor every hour or so and it would work for a while. but now it wont stay on for more than a second. Any Ideas?

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The lcd has three parts, the screen plate(windows)/the logic(vga)/the inverter(power plug). You have 2 out of 3 working ok the plate and VGA board. The power on via the vga(on/off, connected/dis) is rerunning the lcd self test and finding an error. Parts that go are the backlight ccfl's, behind the plate, and parts of the inverter, ie capacitors, all three take a bit of power from the inverter. The self test check that all the lights are ok and the inverter is ok, else it switchs off, ie if 3/4 light
work it will switch off(my own case), hence the on chech error then off. The inverter is make up of three parts 1) The power plug (240v) AC to DC current for the rest of the LCD to use (diodes and power transistors). 2) Power for the VGA usually 5V (power transistor), 3) power for the backlights from 12v to 20V (power transistors). Due to the nature of LCD needing high volatge (750v to spark up the backlight) and hight current 10A (to get high volatge with resistors). There is a lot of circuitry that checks the lcd is ok and then switches off it not quite right. i.e power transistors will switch off if over heating from 15mins to 50mins, capacitors failing , lighting tubes weaking, from 1 sec to hours. all cause more current to flow in order to keep the lcd going. The self testing will check this and if to much will stop working that part/ the whole thing. A typically, Nothing at all is lack of 5v to the vga as this reacts to the buttons on the outside, else the inital AC 240 convertion has fail, backlights failing is either the tubes weaking or the circuit to the tubes weaking(capactors, transistors), using alternative tubes }{ from another plate (without taking them out) can help narrowing this one done. A visual inspect may show where the circuit is failing , parts turning brown, capacitors out of sharpe, transistor blown etc. However sometime there are stages of on/off ie on/ but no perm screen display(only temp), if that is the case the following may be of help...if you put bright light at an angle close to lcd can you see a windows shadow, text icons etc, ie still logic power passing(vga 5v ok backlight voltage fail 16v),then
.... (from a.n. other) after two weeks searching I finally find doctor living stone
http://www.aplusperfect.com/articles/lcd_capacitor_repair more fun with paulbtorrent the takening the case bit off is like
opening your wallet a second time after buying a new LCD, but you must! you use those phone cards that are like credit cards
but thinner to slide between === once all screws removed, if it doesn't move to must likey a screw there some where.
[once open you realize they somehow put that old briefcase clip inside!]Else another way is to use those phone plastic cards
to flip under the edge of the case joint [|] , press hard with the plastic ( and along the edge to get a opening and then just
slide along and all round, rember to remove all screws , even stand holder screws as can some time hold the case together.
also note the bright light test to do first to see if can see a windows screen , and that capacitors are one for a number of
things that a make a inverter work! there a transistors as well, given that however, to replace all the capacitors on my
inverter, was 11 capacitors, cost me $11 (uk ebay) and already had the iron and solder. So only cost me me $11 to try and see
but no luck , still fun and I still can see the screen for 2 sec' at a time plus I have a spare set of caps now in the event
that the new one do go burst! you have to laugh really, what next , a new on/off button, as you work though the whole thing !
mmmMMMMmmmMMMMmmmMMMMTim Berners-leeMMMMMmmmmMMMMMmmmmcome back all is not
wellMMMMMMMMMMnnnnnnweek later land sighted mmmmmMMMMMMMMMmmmmgggggggg(from
another a.n other)Generally, if the screen went out quickly, it was the inverter. If it went out over a slow period of time
(flickering etc..) I would bet it is the lamp.replaceing the lamp should be pretty challenging. as that requires complete
breakdown of your LCD, extraction of your dead lamp, and soldering in your new lamp... but I would like to say that I it did
this after realizing it's 2 x kitchen strips inside [========] x 2 with wires that can connect back to the inverter with out
any desoldering(ie kit assembly/dis) with the outter case remove (glass plate safe away) I could reconnect and see that 3/4
were working cause the inverter to switch off after a secound ! order ccfl and replace and going to cheap and see if I can get
away with fitting a 15" in my 19' as it a 1/3 of the price ! the market as drop out there, hope the inverter does not miss the
length, or the screen out put.
http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx OR MONITOR, I when a head because I could get the inverter to
keep the 4 going out of their shell, but in the strip, using a spare, but then I broke a wire joint and then broke a tube. But
at least I found out a bit more about inverters and ccfl's ! After hong konging a part a 20.1 for $8, plus a 15, got it to
work, the bottom of the screen looks like a cinema, dark at the sides, will have to order another 20" cclf at some point, but
at least my HF207 is now working ok hence this note !paulbtorrent!
So to sum up . Complete dead. Check the inverter for voltage to the VGA, and it self. Power light on, check voltage to the VGA
with a voltage meter (5v). Power on, VGA shadow , then check the display voltage to tubes (12v to 20v) and tubes them selfs
(need a another pair of tubes {===========} to fail the one that failed). Power on , blank, white screen then check voltage to
VGA ie 5V. If you can find the service manual http://elektrotanya.com/?q=keres, then read before solding on !rember to discharge capacitors before hand see http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/freezer/check/capacitor.php
The thing to do is figure out if it is the tubes CCFL's , or capacitors or transistor circuit. A visual inspect of the inverter can tell if it's the capacitor usual over 3 years old LCD. Trying other LCD plates with your inverter same size ie 19 with a 19, do not connect the ribbon for the plate (inverter does not check if it's there, will most likey damage plate if you do). This will narrow down to either tube error or inverter error. Then it on to that part which has fail to replace
Replacing tubes and capacitors is 1/2 a day $10 to $20. Transistor and other parts could take weeks for a beginner , but LCD's are here to stay plus TV's etc bound to another one long in a year, like learning to drive, it handy to be able to do, may not win any races , but can't always afford a cab. Have fun !

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

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Try to see how it works with another computer or another graphics card. If it still does it, you know the computer monitor has to be repaired or replaced.

Is it in warranty?

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

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