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I'm installing a new ignition module on a bc24w weedeater trimmer--the part has 2 screws holding it on-it is apparently adjustable--what gap setting should I use between it and the magnet (armature & rotor??) Also what is proper spark plug gap? Thanks

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I usually use a match book cover between it and the magnet. this way the gap is about right and it will not hang on the magnets. put through both sides at once, then push it in and tighten it up. then take out guage. spark plug gap is .025, the armature gap on most small engines is .010,

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

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How do i replace the on off switch on Hoover U6485900


Make sure the power cord is disconnected! There are two sets of three screws one needs to remove. The first set hold the handle assembly to the sweeper body (there are two near the back of assembly and one in front). The second set is inside the cavity that hold the vacuum powered cleaning tool. There are two at the bottom of the cavity and one at the top. Refer to the Assembly Instructions in the Owner's Manual for help. One can then remove the power leads from the on/off switch, push the switch out, and insert a replacement switch. Pay attention to the color of the wires because some switches apparently work with models having 2 black wires (H-28161075), others with a black and yellow wire (H-28161074), and others with connectors to the wires. Reassemble the sweeper reversing the dis-assembly process outlined above.

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Rubbermaid Reveal mop trigger sticking


I bought 2 rubbermaid reveal spray mops before I figured this out. You'll need a Phillips and flat head screwdriver & a can of WD40. On the compartment that holds the liquid cleaner bottle there are 2 screws and 1 screw on the connector piece to the mop head. Unscrew all three. The one by the mop head came out and the other two stayed in their holes. Then with a flathead screwdriver gently pull the seam along the side apart. You only need 1/2-1 inch of a gap. If you pull it open all the way you'll pop a few other pieces out of place and have to piece them all back together- so gently! Then spray some WD40 in along the exposed spring using the red straw that comes with the can. Close the gap, hold it together and try the trigger a few times. If the trigger is still sticking spray more WD40 in until it frees up. Then screw your screws back in and it's as good as new!

Dec 03, 2013 | Rubbermaid Reveal Spray Mop Kit,...

1 Answer

Homelite mighty lite 26b get no fuel


Hi airizarry15...
Here are some things to check...

I will also include a fuel routing picture
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
*****************************************************************************************************************************************************************
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the chainsaw/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up
hunter19_46m_16.gif

Sep 18, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Will not start- seems to be fuel starvation.


Hi peterblesset...
You did not give me any info on what kind of engine that is starving for fuel.
So I will give you my solution to 2 cycle some 4 cycle chainsaw and trimmer engines with fuel problems and igintion problems.
**********************************************************************************************
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
*****************************************************************************************************************************************************************
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later
reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 13, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Need to adjust carb, wont run


Hi dbk48..
Your listing is under vacuum cleaners and I have never seen a vacuum with a carburetor.
You did not say what machine (lawnmower,weed trimmer,ect) would not run...so it is really difficult to tell you how to adjust the carburetor.
I will include some info on a trimmer/mower carburetor repair...Just guessing that is what you need.
Please take time to rate me
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your problem may be more than just a carburetor adjustment...

Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting a nice blue spark then:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me

Aug 17, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

I have a 7950 Bissell. I can't get it to **** up from either the tools or floor area. I tried adjusting the knob on side but still no luck. Any suggesions?


First check to see if there is suction at the motor duct. If not contact you local BISSELL Authorized Service Center at http://www.bissell.com/customer-support/.

If there is suction,
a) Check if the small rounded window tabs on the Floor Nozzle are locked in
their mating slots and not inadvertently lifting the tank up out of place?
b) Check to ensure oval seal is in place at the top of floor nozzle window.
c) Check the diverter knob for proper setting and the diverter door opens and
closes properly. If no, and it does not appear to be broken, remove the floor nozzle window, open diverter door manually, keeping the flat
side of the door against the unit. Set the diverter knob on the tools setting.
Manually close diverter door until there is resistance, hold it in place while
turning the diverter knob towards the floor setting to lock it back in place.
Reinstall the floor nozzle window. (If diverter door will not lock back in place,
go to a BISSELL Authorized Service Center).
d) Check for the black foam gasket under the diverter door. Replace if
necessary.
e) Check floor nozzle window to ensure it is screwed down properly. If there is
a ¼" gap between the window, where it wraps around to the side of the
unit, and the base on the slanted section, reinstall window.
This gap can be eliminated by installing the tabs at the top of the window,
hold it in place, then push up from the bottom of the window to bow the
window, push it against the unit and then evenly slide it down into place.
f) Check half moon window to ensure it is screwed down properly on
CleanView models. The floor nozzle window should be lower to the floor
then the half moon window.
g) Make sure tank is not full on the outside of the bladder.
h) Check the tank lint screen for debris. Remove it to check.
i) Check tank lid and tank for damage.
j) Check float and baffle to ensure they are properly installed properly. The
baffle should be even with the top of the tank

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1 Answer

Vacuum height won't go on low carpet setting. Dial will go on medium and high, but not low.


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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Hoover Self-Propelled WindTunnel U6436-900 cable problem


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1 Answer

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