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Quick Question I pick up one of these second hand, well it really is the lw-b0812cl, but it looks very similar. Probably just an older model. At the bottom of the output vent there is a lever that says vent close/open. Moving the lever has little to no change. Anyone know what it is suppose to do?

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It has been my experience that the vent lever opens a small flap allowing some of the air in the blowers air stream to vent to the outdoors - not something you would use in the cooling mode since it "dumps" your cooled air. If you wish to use the unit as an air mover/exchanger, you would operate the unit with this vent open.

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Looking for model number on older Fedders air conditioner

There will be a tag on it externally and it is probably hard to read due to weather and grass clippings. If its a really old one, the tags were aluminum with the info stamped in them. If it was made in the mid 80's or later, it was probably a clear plastic tag that has faded and lost its ink over the years or is completely gone due to UV light deterioration.

Open the electrical cover, sometimes the manufactures printed model and serial numbers on the actual wiring diagrams. As a last resort, write the numbers down that are located on top of the compressor dome. Also note the brand of the compressor. Call a local HVAC shop and ask them the capacity of the compressor which is coded within the numbers on the dome. For instance a Tecumseh AH5540E is a 40,000 btu compressor that can be used in a 3 or 3 1/2 ton a/c. It'll get you in the ball park.

If you are looking for the Feddars model number so you can order parts, don't bother because those old units all had reasonably generic parts that ANY supply house has on hand. Double pole contactor, 30, 35 or 40 mfd run capacitor. 250 mfd start capacitor. 1075 rpm condesor fan motor.....ALL normal in stock items. Even the replacement compressors were generic on most of the old units and compressor brands could be interchanged with a few piping modifications.

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Not much of an answer ... more of just a thought ... I am not familiar with this brand.

There must be some way to get rid of the condensate because there will be condensate. I presume you have made a cursory examination for a tank and found none but evidently you found some plumbing type outlet. I suggest you look again for a tank. If there is really no tank, then you will have to arrange for the condensate disposal. You don't say what kind of plumbing connection there is ... I would be inclined to modify that connection to accept a garden hose and lead it to a drain. Problem here is you probably want to use this unit in your house where all the drains are UP. In the basement, no problem ... lead it to the sump or the floor drain. If it has to go up, you will have to rig a pump through a smaller hose ... a pump like a small fountain pump using a 1/4 or 3/8 plastic hose.

If you bought this unit at a store - you could go back and ask for a manual or instruction. If you bought it second hand ... you will have to sait until someone with "Kings Post" experience.

I have sad several units similar to yours though different makes. There must be some accomodation for condensate.

Keep looking for a tank .........

Good luck ... thanks for your inquiry.

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They will have to be cut and brazed.
Regular solder will not hold.

High temp brazing is required.
Also, it is illegal to cut into a refridgerant system without first recovering the refridgerant. It is also illegal to tap into refridgerant systems without having an EPA certification. It can result in very hefty fines.

I know thats probably not the answer you were hoping for. Howver, I would be neglecting my duties to not inform you of it.

Again, to directly answer your question.
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