Question about Gb Electrical CS550A Circuit Breaker Finder

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Hi I have wired my house and would like to confirm all the connections before applying power. It looks like this unit is just the trick. Will it work if there is no electrical service to the building yet? Tx Chris

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Hi,
No it needs to have power to work....you plug the one unit into a powered outlet and then you can "find" the breaher in the panel with that unit...
For what you want to do you need an "Ohm meter" which integrated into many electrical meters.

heatman101

heatman101

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

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07 ram. Clarion vz401 has blinking red light, thats it! Disconnected everything and checked fuses. Everything is fine. Will not power on no matter what i do


Hi Deli:
My suggestions:
- Use a voltmeter to confirm power supply
- Make sure power supply connected to correct wire.
- Confirm that unit is properly grounded. If ground wire, use continuity meter to confirm that ground wire is indeed grounded.
- make sure speakers are properly connected.
And last, but most important, Did the unit work before you tried to install it. There's not much fun in trying to make a dead unit entertain you.
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No heat from burners or oven after relocating stove


Hi Ron - From what you have described if neither the burners nor oven turns on make sure the electrical connecting is 240V. The oven light and clock portions only required 115V. The clock and oven light working may indicate an electrical circuit breaker supplying the range is tripped or a fuse is blown. Confirm household circuit is correct and the range cord is properly wired to the terminal block.

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Need to install a hot water heater; need electrical diagram.


Generally you will have three wires

1. bare or green wire this is your ground and is secured to the outside of the water heater usually with a green colored screw provide with the unit.

2. connect the black wire from the house to the red wire on the unit.

3 connect the white wire from the house to the white wire from the unit.

In general as long as you hook up the two power wires from the house with the two power wires from the unit it does not matter as one wire will supply 110v and the other wire will also provide 110v..

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1 Answer

Will not brown the top


1. Make sure the browning contol is set to at least 4.
2. Let the iron pre-heat at least 4 minutes
3. Carefully, touch you hand to the top with a quick touch or about 1/4" away.
4. The top and the bottom should feel the same. CAUTION THEY ARE VERY HOT
5. If the top isn't very hot the element inside isn't working.
6. Unplug the unit and let it cool
7. Remove the top lid cover with the assembly screws
8. Remove the element shield under the lid
9. With the element exposed, chech the wire connection to ensure no lose connections
10. With volt meter connect to the element, plug the unit in CAUTION ELECTRICITY CAN KILL!
11. There should be 110 house voltage at the element terminals
12. If not power is seen. disconnect the power and the meter.
13. Reassemble the shield and lid.
14. Remove the control panel from the front face of the iron
15. Locate the adjustment knob electrical terminals
16. Locate the supply side terminal and the output terminal
17. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS UNPLUGGED
18. Inspect the thermostate control for any lose wires or debrie entrapted in the contacts area.
19. Clean and re-inspect the thermostat, then reassemble.
20. If the units still fails to work, unplug it again to check the contacts in the rotational housing
21. At the rear of the until locate the area where the wires are routed from the front panel control to the top rotational housing
22. Closely inspect the area where the wires are routed to the top of the unit.
23. If any of the wires seem worn replace them.
24. After inspecting the heating elemement, its connections, the temperature control and the wires routed to the top of the Iron - you should have found the problem. To further troubleshoot you will need specialzed equipment that could be hazardous such as a cheater plug to apply house current directly to the top element to ensure that it is functioning. If this is done and the element still does not heat then the element is bad.

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Kenmore Humidifier 14114 - the fan suddenly stopped running. Changed fliter and water, unplugged the unit, changed dial to highest humidity level - the unit will not run.


Hi

Please turn off the power to the unit and unplug it. Now check the fuse inside the unit, make sure its fine and not burnt If fuse seems OK then inspect the connections to the fan and make sure the wires are not cut. Also, inspect the control for any burnt components, use a multimeter to confirm. Hope this helps... Please post back with complete model# if you need more information.

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1 Answer

My dog chewed up the t-stat wiring on my outside a/c unit (compressor?). I purchased some t-stat wire at Home Depot and replaced the wiring. At the outside unit, I connected the new white wire with the...


Hello,Yes there is a 3 amp blade fuse(same as in a car) in the blower unit,take off the door and it is plugged in to the(curcuit) board.Pull it out and slip a new one in.That will restore the control voltage.Your repair sounds correct.Some times there is a tiny button on the transformer itself (square box) that pops up instead of a fuse just push that in to reset it(if applys).

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1 Answer

Samsung dryer Mod DV328AEW/XAA electric 220v dryer tumbles but does not heat.I've checked and power is 220v (working) There appears to be no burnt wiring, inside. and heating coils appear to be intact.


HI. Ok, this unit is equipped with four thermostats that monitor the cycling information and the heater box for optimal operations. All of the thermostats should be tested for proper functions. I suspect that the culprit will be the thermostats mounted on the heater box, but test all to isolate.

Here are all the thermostats that are to be tested, below:

1. Thermal fuse - This will be mounted on the side of the heater box(chamber). Test properly to confirm its functions.
2. Cycling Thermostat - This will be mounted on the blower housing.
3. Cycling thermostat(2) - mounted on the blower housing
4. Hi-limit thermostat - Mounted next to the thermal fuse on the heater chamber/box.


Concerning the element:

You cant always tell by looking. This device must be tested to confirm that it is indeed working as designed. It should show some signs of continuity if it is indeed functioning.

Proper testing technique for most thermostats and fuses:

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.


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hello there ! u have said that the on switch is not responding , has anyone tempered with the machine? wiring pls check if the wiring is in order if so   the switch is damaged and needs replacement . 
 
So  get a new switch and on it 


thank u 
bye 

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My ps3 starts to turn on for 1 second. Yellow light flashes, system shuts off, and red light blinks. Help?


HI, this is an emergency shut down, due to overheating. the yellow light is an indicator of a previous overheating issue that has damaged the power unit.

unplug the unit and, let it sit for 10 minutes to cool. after the cool off, plug the unit into the wall socket once more and, power up. if it continues to shut down and, flash the red light, this will confirm a major fault within the power unit. Contact Sony for the replacement of the power unit in this case.

***NOTE(If the unit begins to play normally after the cool-down period, you will need to purchase a cooling device to prevent future overheating issues).

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Suggest you turn the power off, remove the top cover, diconnect the live and neutral connections to the dryer element (likely to be two of each flavour of connection if the machine has high and low dry settings). Pop a bit of insulating tape around the wire ends so you don't short anything out. Now try to put the machine through a drying cycle. If it works (albeit cold) without tripping the house power, you need a new dryer element. If the house power still trips, turn the power off again and without reconnecting the element wires, disconnect and tape the live and neutral wires from the blower motor. Again, try to run a drying cycle. If this stops the house power tripping, then it looks like a motor problem (though this would be quite unusual). If the house power still trips, you need to have a careful look at all the wiring between the main timer, the dryer timer, any hi/lo heat switch, the blower motor and the element with its associated thermostats and thermal cutouts (all located near the element on the air duct). Look in particular for chafes where wires go round corners, and where wiring crosses from the case to the suspended machinery in the middle of the machine. Pop any follow-on queries in the comments section of this question - I'll keep half an eye on it. A.

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