Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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I chanched the main board, temp sensors and the dumping motor and the problem still is there. Freezer is ok and the fresh food is warm.How can I fix it?

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Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

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Our fridge seems to work like a freezer no matter what setting is on, is this a known problem? The model is a Gorenje fridge/freezer model: HZOS 3366


Hello Nick;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

I assume you are from the United Kingdom based on your unit. I am from Baltimore, Maryland, USA.

Yes, this is a common problem and a simple one to fix. Your only cooling source is from your freezer. There is a vent from your freezer that blows cool air into your fresh food section. This vent is probably motorized and controlled by a temperature sensor in your fresh food section. Either the vent assembly is bad and stuck open or you have a bad fresh food section temperature sensor..

Temp fix: With tape or cotton balls or something locate the air vent to your fresh food section and block at least 1/2 of the air flow vent ports to your fresh food section.

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From what I remember a flashing 4 means "damper error". Send your model number found inside or on the outside of the fresh food section, The air damper is found between the freezer and fresh food section and regulates temperature in the fresh food section by opening wide for things that warm up your fresh food section example would be opening the door and letting warm air inside . The damper then closes to keep the right temperature. If you have questions please ask, Thanks Sea Breeze

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Zisb480dmc monogram, replaced Fresh food damper(-17 in freezer, 48 in refer), did not solve. Replaced Main board and fresh food thermistors, worked 10 days, problem became 44 in fresh food -27 in freezer....


there's a temp sensor on the evap coil part WR55X10025,i would change that out and when you changed the board if there's a wire in the second pin of the connector with ithink 9 pins on it you have to cut the wire that's in the second pin,if there's no wire in the first pin but one in the second pin then leave it alone,look at the paper that came with the board and it will tell you what connector it is,let me know what you find,the old sensor has like a black piece on it where the wires come out of it,the new one is all white but you should change the sensor when you change out the board

Sep 30, 2010 | GE Refrigerators

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Fridg is not working right


The fresh food compartment is cooled by air being blown from the freezer compartment into the fresh food compartment. Something is restricting that air flow which causes your fresh food compartment to stay warm.

There is a panel, or door if you will, that separates the freezer and fresh food compartments. The freezer temp control determines how much cold air is allowed to escape into the fresh food compartment by opening or closing this panel.

If the panel is restricted from moving (stuck closed, for example), the freezer will get VERY cold while the fresh food compartment will be warm.

Try thoroughly defrosting the refrigerator. Possibly an accumulation of ice is preventing the panel from moving and/or is restricting air flow from the freezer to the fresh food compartment. It's a free fix and may solve your problem altogether.

If that doesn't help, or helps only temporarily, you may have a problem with panel itself or the linkage that connects it to the control mechanism. Unless you're skilled in appliance repair, checking and repairing these components will require the help of a service technician

Hope this was helpful. Good Luck.

Aug 28, 2009 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...

1 Answer

Working fridge, warm freezer.


The fresh food compartment is cooled by air being blown from the freezer compartment into the fresh food compartment.

There is a panel, or door if you will, that separates the freezer and fresh food compartments. The freezer temp control determines how much cold air is allowed to escape into the fresh food compartment by opening or closing this panel.

In your case, the door must be stuck all the way open, allowing all the cold air to be diverted into the fresh food compartment. The compressor cycle is controlled by the thermostat in the fresh food compartment and thus 'short cycles' because the fresh food compartment acheives normal temperature while the freezer is relativel warm.

If the panel is restricted from moving (stuck in the extreme open position, for example), the fresh food compartment will get VERY cold while the freezer will be warm.

Try thoroughly defrosting the refrigerator. Possibly an accumulation of ice is preventing the panel from moving and/or is diverting all the cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment. It's a free fix and may solve your problem altogether.

If that doesn't help, or helps only temporarily, you may have a problem with panel/door/flap itself or the linkage that connects it to the control mechanism. Unless you're skilled in appliance repair, checking and repairing these components will require the help of a service technician

Hope this was helpful. Good Luck.

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I just has the motherboard replace last week and now the Refrigerator side stop working and I have Ice on the back wall of the frezzer . Frezzer is still working well. gss22wgmd


You don't say why the mother board was replaced. Make sure the board was the correct one, part number WR55X10656 for your GSS22WGMD and that all plugs are firmly and correctly attached to it. If yes, then check the defrost heater (located behind the back wall inside the freezer, near the bottom) to see if it is burnt out. (If you disconnect the wires from each end of it and test, finding no continuity, it is bad) It is a part number WR51X10101 for your model, and is a fairly common failure point. While you have that apart, manually defrost the coils with a hair dryer. (the manual defrosting alone will get your refrig working for at least a week, allowing you time to get any needed parts.) If left alone without defrosting, your freezer section will not be working well soon either.

Jul 29, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The coils on my ge gss22wgpd bb side by side keep freezing up . IU can defrost them manually and the freezer and fridge work fine again.


This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

This site has schematics of various appliances, including the model number you provided...
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=GSS22WGPDBB&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

Your model appears very similar to mine - in the "Fresh Food Shelves" section of the above site, the sensor is diagram number 242. In the "Freezer Section", the sensors are diagram number 241 and 243.

Jul 28, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Top refrigerator not cooling--freezer icy


This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Jul 28, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a refrigerator that is 10 years old it is a tpx24pbe bb model number and the refrigerator side is staying at 50 degrees what is the problem?


On my GE side by side (model GSS20IEMDWW), a warm fresh food side, as well as iced-over evaporator coils in the freezer, was caused by the temp sensor in the fresh food side sending faulty data to the computer.

The temp in the fresh food side would climb because air could no longer pass over the iced-up coils in the freezer side.

For me, the faulty fresh food side sensor made the computer always thing the fresh food side was too warm, making it constantly run the compressor (thus icing up the coils).

If you do not have a coil icing problem in the freezer, then your fresh food side temp sensor may be telling the computer that the fresh food side is already cold enough.

Jul 27, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Turbo cool will not turn off in GE side-by-side refrigerator. Replaced circuit board...still stays on


There are three temp sensors in my GE side-by-side model GSS20IEMDWW (two in the freezer and one in the fresh food side). Replacing the temp sensor in the fresh food side was enough to allow the compressor to finally turn off.

For me, the problem manifested with an iced-over evaporator coil inside the freezer compartment. Since the compressor never cycled off (presumably because the temp sensor was providing faulty data about the temp inside the fresh food side, thus causing it to continually attempt to cool), the coils were constantly chilled. Eventually the ice on the coils would block the air flow and the freezer side could no longer freeze

I purchased a pair of inexpensive thermometers from a kitchen store and put one in the freeze and one in the fresh food side so I could occasionally look at the temps to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running - ie, was it really a warm-enough temp for cooling to be required, or was the computer reading faulty sensor data.

Six months later I also needed to replace both temp sensors in the freezer compartment. My refrigerator is about seven years old. I would recommend replacing all of the temp sensors just to rule that out.

http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=GSS20IEMDWW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

Your model may be different, but this will give you an idea of part numbers and relative locations of the parts.


Jul 16, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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