Question about Refrigerators
had same exact problem - followed advice for fixing same problem in similar refrig. took of the back panel off the freezer section - 8 hex head screws - and found the cooling fins all frosted over.
Posted on May 31, 2008
Try changing the damper settings in fresh food compartment. Your refrigerator has a control board and it is possible the board is no longer working correctly. If your board is bad I can help you locate one. If the fridge is still under warranty I would have the technician come out. He would possibly just change out the board without testing to original board. Other things that could cause problems are thermistor and defrost thermostat located inside the freezer and attached to the evaporator coil. If you continue to have problems, let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
the fan is locted in the freezer and it blows up to the ref and it sounds like the fan quit working and needs replace to check it the be for sure take the back panel off and with the ref running test the leads to the motor and make sure you have 110 volts if you do it is a bad motor
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of. after the freezer freezes again, your ice maker will work again.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
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