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The big black washer between the tank and bottom is deteriorating also the black washers on the bolts that hold the tank to the bottom are coming apart and the tank is leaking

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Any hardware stores where plumbing supply is sold including lowes and home depot sell toilet seal kits including toilet to tank seals as well as toilet rebuild kits. Ask for a toilet to tank seal and washers for the bolts which might come with the large seal(check)
1. Close toilet water valve
2. Drain tank or sop with a towel and squeeze into tub until toilet is empty or bail water out with a cup.
3. Remove two tank bolts
4. clean area where old seals were
5. put tank seal on bowl and set tank lining it on top of seal.
6. Install tank bolts with new seals and tighten evenly
7. Don't over tighten or tank will crack. You probably can tighten until tank and toilet touch evenly on both sides.
8. Fill and check for leaks.

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

  • Joe Felice
    Joe Felice Jun 04, 2012

    Mine did the same thing. Jacuzzi said it was because I used chlorine cleaner in the tank, which I didn't. What you need is new ones that are made out of neoprene, instead of rubber. I bought them at The Home Depot. Everything is fine now.

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My eljer tank cracked and I need to install a new tank. How do I just install a new tank? The bowl is fine. Companies are trying to charge me about $300 to do this and I do not have the money. Please...


Let's assume you can buy the tank.
Installation of tank is simple.

If you can buy the eljer tank, you can buy whole new toilet with bowl and tank from home center.

We'll walk through instructions for both options.

1) How to replace tank on existing bowl.
-Tank is attached from underneath with two nuts.
-Turn off water, and hold flush valve down to drain tank
-Water connection is one nut. Follow supply line up to where it connects to tank. Loosen the nut that is around supply line just underneath tank. Pull nut downward and notice a black rubber washer that is probably stuck inside nut, or is stuck at bottom of tank. Make a note of where that nut is because it seals the water line to tank.
-You might also have a flex connector instead of supply tube. In that case, just unscrew flex connect from bottom of flush valve.
-Look beneath the tank and there are two nuts that hold tank to bowl.
-Take off these two nuts. A ratchet and socket is best tool, but you can use crescent wrench. -Notice these nuts are not exceptionally tight, but they are firm.
-Straddle the bowl and hold tank with two hands and lift up. Tank will come right up.
-Notice that on bottom of the tank: there are 2 bolts sticking out and there is a spongy rubber washer. This is the spud washer. Your new tank will have new washer. This washer seals tank to bowl so water doesn't leak when you flush.
-Notice round opening where flush water flows into bowl. Spud washer seals this hole. If you have experienced slow flushing, or if you have hard water, pour several cupfuls of CLR Calcium Lime Rust into the hole. CLR is sold at Home Depot by the gallon for $10.

-Open box to new tank. Find spud washer and fix it to bottom of new tank.
-Now a new tank is slippery, I want you to set boxes on floor nearby so if tank starts slipping, aim toward a box instead of hard tile floor.
-New tank comes with 2 new bolts, with nuts. Look at instruction sheet and see exactly how they want you to connect bolts to tank. Look carefully where they want you to put washers. These washer seal the tank when you tighten bolts.
-Now your spud washer is in place, the bolts are attached to tank and are sticking out of bottom of tank.
-Straddle bowl and lower new tank into place. Make sure spud washer lines up. Bolts line up. And flush valve lines up with supply tube. It's that easy.
-Tighten the nuts. Remember, not too tight. Toilet is not steel. And you can tighten more if there is seeping water.
-Now tank is in place. Raise nut and washer that are on supply tube and tighten nut onto bottom of flush valve. This nut is fairly tight. You might want to buy a new washer.
-If you have a flex line for the water supply, then just connect the flex line.

-Turn water ON a little bit at a time to avoid gusher if something is not correct.
-Use paper towels to check for dripping or seepage beneath tank. Tighten nuts appropriately to end seepage.
-Flush toilet and look for seepage around spud washer.
-You're done.

2) How to install new toilet.
-Remove old tank as shown above.
-Bowl is held to floor with two nuts.
-Ideal world those two nuts come right off and you lift bowl up off the floor.
-Real world, those nuts are rusted and you have to drill through side of the nut and bolt to break it off.
-Lift bowl up.
-Have cardboard ready next to toilet so you can set bowl on something. Or set it in bathtub.
-Bowl will be damp and wax ring is on bottom of bowl and will mess up the floor.
-Notice how the toilet bolts are set in the floor flange. Take photo if needed so you can put it back. It's real simple, but if you have never done this, a photo might help.
-Take putty knife and scrape wax ring off of floor flange. You want it smooth, but you don't clean it.
-New toilet comes with wax ring and bolts, but you might have to buy these at hardware store. Get wax right with gasket. The boxes are marked. Buy two of them.
-Set wax ring in center of floor flange. Gasket goes downward. Rounded side of wax ring goes up.
-Set new toilet bolts into floor flange. Keep bolts straight up using wax from the old wax ring, or from 2nd wax right you purchased.
-Keep bolts straight across from each other.
-Time to set the toilet.
-Stand in front of bowl and grab on either side at point where seat connects.
-Here's the fun part.
-Bowl has to go straight down onto wax ring so you have to be strong enough to hold tank level while aligning tank with bolts, without knocking the bolts down. Like a carnival game.
-Straddle walk toilet while holding it up high enough so it will not knock over the bolts.
-Lower bowl into place going straight down using bolts as guide. Lower a little bit and check one side for alignment and then check other side until bowl is going down and bolts fit through the holes.
-If bolt falls over or gets pushed away, straddle walk toilet back and set bolt straight up again.
-Once bowl is aligned, keep pushing straight down on bowl, and finally use your weight to push bowl to floor. Be careful to keep bowl perpendicular to wall so tank will sit straight.
-Attach bowl to floor with nuts and washers.
-Install tank as shown above.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on toilet or any do-it-yourself project.

Jan 12, 2011 | Eljer 141-0220-00 Toilet Tank White

1 Answer

How do you remove a toyota tercel washer fluid reservoir


on the bottom of the front fender you will find a large black plastic cover, should have 8mm bolts holding it on, remove it, and you should be able to remove the 10mm nuts holding the tank in.

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1 Answer

My toilet only leaks when flushed. It seems to be coming from the connection at the tank. The tank is not cracked and a new hose from tank to shut off valve has been installed. The toilet is only 4 years...


If you have 2-part toilet, then tank is attached to bowl with 2 bolts.
Look inside tank and you can see bolts with rubber washers located on either side of flush valve.
The 2 bolts hold tank and bowl together and between tank and bowl is a washer called the spud washer.
So spud washer could be leaking ... or 2 bolts could be leaking.

1) If bolts are leaking, there is usually dripping all the time, and drips are visible on bottoms of bolts
If spud washer is leaking, then tank could leak only when tank is flushed.

2) First thing to try is tightening nuts on the 2 bolts. Nuts may be loose. Tighten nuts a few turns, and check if toilet still leaks.

3) To fix a spud washer, you usually need a new generic one from hardware store.
Newer tanks with 1.6 gallon flush have special sized spud washer.
geno_3245_105.jpgTank is upside down and spud washer is fit over flush valve

If you cannot find new spud washer, re-use old one and smear retorseal on it during re-assembly to make sure it seals. Rectoseal is good for many home plumbing repairs. More about that in a moment.
geno_3245_104.jpg

4) To take apart tank: Disconnect supply line to tank. Empty water out of tank. Remove nuts from bolts. Lift tank off. Wash out tank with hose. Make sure there is no sand or sediment left in bottom that might clog up flush holes located inside bowl after tank is re-assembled.

5) Remove old spud washer, and put new one on. Do a google-image search for 'spud washer' if you need more photos. New spud washer fits over flush valve. That's it. And then reassemble tank.
If you want to apply rectorseal to washer, put washer on as shown in photo above. Then smear-or-gawm rectorseal over area of washer that sits on bowl. Rectorseal will make sure there is no more leaking.

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1 Answer

Water is leaking from the bottom of the machine and will not fill up


Hello,

Your water leak can come from 3 areas:

1) drain hose on back of washer is coming off / splitting / getting loose

2) water pump is leaking (cracked?) or has a gasket that has deteriorated.

3) hose between tub and water pump has come off / split / became loose.

Since your washer isn't able to hold water, it makes it easy to remove the clothes, and lean the washer forward to see what is going on. Most washers' mechanicals can be acessed from either the bottom, or from the back via access panel. The water leaks are generally a pretty easy repair.

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1 Answer

Theres a leak between tank and commode what needs replacing?


There are three rubber washers. There are two small ones under the heads of the bolts that pull the tank and the bowl together. (If this is a new toilet, it could be that these need a little tightening, but don't break it!) There is a large rubber washer where the water goes from the tank to the bowl.
f this is an old toilet, turn off the water, remove the water, remove the water supply pipe from the bottom of the tank, then remove the two bolts holding the tank and bowl together. Lift off the tank and you will see the rubber washers. Remove them and clean. Hardware stores have replacements. It might help to take the old washers with you to the store. You should replace the bolts if they are corroded. They sell kits that have the bolts and all three rubber washers included. Good luck. Al K

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1 Answer

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Some manufacturers specify only to use rubber washers inside the tank, and only one bolt on bottom. I usually assemble the bolt with one metal washer on bolt ( or bolt with large head) then a rubber washer, then through tank, then another washer, then a metal washer (brass or stainless) then another nut. Snug these nuts up tight, but be careful not to over tighten or you'll break the tank. Do this to all the bolts. Then set the tank on bowl, with the bolts extending through the bottom. Make sure your gasket is up all the way on the nipple, so the tank will tighten to the stops on the bowl. Now put another set of rubber washer, and metal washer and nut (thumb nuts are fine here) Tighten till tank doesn't rock and is resting on stops. Now it doesn't have to be so tight, as the bolts are already tight in the tank. You can get a fluidmaster bolt kit at home depot that has enough bolts, washers and all

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1 Answer

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Rubber goes on the inside. Might be an optional laarge flat washer and nut on the bottom (outside)

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2 Answers

Installing new jacuzzi 1.6 gallon maxima toilet. despite following the instructions, the water is leaking from between where the tank connects to the bowl. Please help.


Yes, it seems the folks who wrote the instructions have never actually done any plumbing.

first place a rubber washer on the bolt, then put it through the hole in the tank. Then place another rubber washer on the bolt, followed by a metal washer and a nut. Tighten the nut, not the bolt.
Using a screwdriver hold the bolt in place, and tighten the nut until snug and the rubber washers are compressed slightly.

Follow this step with all the "tank to bowl" bolts.

Now the bolts are tight to the tank and will not leak water.

Then place the large rubber gasket over the flush valve hole on the bottom of the tank. and set the tank on the bowl with the bolts through the bowls holes.

Place a metal washer on the bolt, and then a nut.

Tighten each nut equally until the tank has no wobble.

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1 Answer

I fixed (I think) a broken flaper valve assembly. In doing so, I created a leak where the bolts affix the tank to the bowl. I can't find a rubber gasket assembly (I don't even know if that is the right...


Go to home depot and tell them you need a tank-to-bowl gasket. They have them at home depot and it may come with new bolts for the tank-to-bowl fastening. New bolts would be a good idea to pick up anyway. One rubber washer under each head, then a rubber washer at the bottom of the tank. Use a metal washer and nut to secure this to the tank, then use another washer and nut from the bowl to the tank.

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1 Answer

Remove bosch axxis 2060 washer motor


Remove the back panel to get to the motor which is at the bottom at the back. Notice two bolts holding the motor into the mount. Remove these two bolts. Notice the back part of the motor is sitting in the mount with black rubber washers. Carefully, pull the motor forward, and this will be abit hard. You can take a flat head screw driver and tap down (in between) on each front plastic washer and the motor will slowly come forward. Becarefull because there is a wire harness still attached to the motor. You have to take wire cutters and clip the placstic band holding the wire harness to the motor. Then grip the harness and wiggle it free. Then remove the single wire also. Putting the belt back is a bit tricky too. Make sure you put back the two black rubber washers and the two front plastic washers.

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