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Kits are available but price is not real cheap---basically you have to unbolt chassis and release some cables inside to get enough room to pull chassis back and put up so bottom faces rear of set.
In this model both chips are near the middle of the set inside--unsolder all 18 pins on each and the 4 pins that hold each heat sink in---you remove the sink with chip still attached--clean the white grease off, apply new and replace both chips.
Works best if put front chip WITH THE HEAT SINK ATTACHED back in first and repeat with rear sink---it means when you install you have to get 18 pins plus the four pins for the sink installed in one shot.
The window scraper seal has been dislodged from its position, those white pins that you see are the locking pins that holds it down into position. If that is the one you replaced better bring it back to the shop that installed it. Plastic clips/pins might already broken.
Installing it without any experience in opening the inside mechanism of the door/window will vodi the warranty of the works that have done to it.
Placing it back, you have to remove the door cover, window regulator, wiring harness, and window glass. Just to get that small thing back into position.
Hope that helps you out.
Thanks fro asking FixYa!
The push pins get rotated a 1/4 turn to lock or unlock them. Make sure it is unlocked and then pull up on the black plastic push pin. This will make sure it is unlocked. Repeat for the remaining 3 push pins. If you look at the bottom the little clear/white plastic pieces at the bottom should not have a black piece of plastic piece pushed down and showing all the way. You can then take the cooler and line up all the holes with the pushpins but dont push down on them yet. Push down on the top of the cooler to put the white plastic pieces through the holes. Then rotate the black top push pins to the locked position and push down on the locking push pin.
Your old heat sink and fan probably works just as as good or better than that stock Intel fan and heat sink. If your computer case does not allow access to the rear of the motherboard you are going to have to remove the motherboard to pull the back plate that was used to attach your old heat sink and fan. To install the Intel fan turn the pins until the screwdriver slot is perpendicular to the fan shroud (the tip of the arrow is furthest out), then push in any 2 opposite sides at the same time into the motherboard. You will here them click in. Repeat for the other 2 pins.
see do one thing check the cpu fan whether it is working properly and is not producing any noise if it is then probably you need to replace your cpu fan with a new one also makke sure that your power supply fan and chasis fan is working as excess heat gets generated in the system they remove it
to change the cpu fan
1.see it will depend on what kind of cpu socket you have pin or pinless
for pin-open the plastic clamp on the fan
for pinless -unscrew the heatsink
2.remove the heatsink and replace it it will be much better if you replace the full heat sink with a new one .also don't forget to put thermal grease compound for effivient heat transfer in between the cpu and the heat sink contact generally these days heat sinks come with pre-applied thermal componds but still it is recomended to apply it firmly over the cpu before installing the heat sink on it
3.if you wish to install the old heatsink by just replacing the top fan then replace the fan and rub the bottom of the heat sink with a sand paper to make it even and free from dust and oxide apply thermal compond and install it on the processor .plug bak the cpu fan header cable .
start your system it will stop overheating..
Hi Jharper91, There is no easy way to explain how to remove your Intel® Pentium® 4 processor with out some pictures. Intel does have a site showing how to install. Once you understand how to install you'll be able to remove. Try looking through this link from Intel. http://www.intel.com/support/processors/pentium4/sb/CS-007988.htm Newer Intel Pentium 4 processor use 4 plastic pins to hold the retention clip onto the board. To remove them you will need to lift the motherboard out of the case. Using a needle-nose plier to squeeze the plastic ends together & pop-out the plastic pins. The north bridge can be glued onto the chipset & have 2 pins bent inwards on themselves. Bend them in and push them through. If glued, use a hair dryer to heat the cooler, thus making the glue soften. Each board can & do use different methods to hold coolers to the chipset's. You might want to keep in mind the total db of adding a bunch of coolers. It may get very noisy for you.
I hope you find this helpful. If I can help you more just post you're question's here. Good Luck Jharper91!
Use a digital camera to take pictures of the chassis. Review the pictures to see if they can be used to reassemble the wiring plugs or restore the wire tie up positions.
Remove the three screws that are located on the front edge of the chassis. After removing wires from their tie up positions or disconecting plugs the goal is to move the chassis into a position to expose the bottom side.
Find a place to tie up the chassis using a piece of wire to one of the back screws to anchor this position.
Use fresh solder wick and a 60Watt iron to remove the heat sink solder tabs switch to a 25 to 30 watt iron to remove the solder on the STK392-560 ic's.
Remove the ic's from the heat sink and apply fresh heat sink grease before mounting the new ic's to the heat sink.
Line the pins uniformly on the ic's if needed to install the ic/heat sink assembly. Use a flashlight or lamp to make it easier to see if the pins line up. Twist the solder tabs on the heat sink to secure it's position. Make shure all pins are present to solder in place on the bottom side.