Question about Kitchen Ranges
We have a 13 year old GE Range that just started this behavior this afternoon. When you try to set the oven temp, the "Auto Clean" light blinks.
I have tried unplugging for 20 in hopes of reseting this little computer, but no help.
If this is the control board I am not sure I want spend $150 on this old of a range.
GE will not answer this question.
SOURCE: my manual clean oven range
you really don't need to remove them if your nervous just turn the power off at the breaker but they wont hut you as long as the oven isn't on
Posted on Jan 18, 2008
This is not really meant to be done by user. If done incorrectly you could easily bend or break the gas lines to the top burners.
First you need to remove all the screws in the top burners and remove the burners. Then carefully twist out the ignitors. They do not necessarily have to be disconnected. Then remove all the knobs in front. and remove the manifold cover (that's the cover behind the knobs).
You will then be able to remove the screws that hold the top down and lift the top up high enough to clean under it. Lift this carefully though making sure that the gas lines do not bend when you do it.
Posted on Nov 16, 2008
if this is a new stove need to change the pin in the regulator ,
then need to replace the stove top orifices from gas to l.p.
check under the stove for pieces they tape them under there by the regulator -- that how i found mine under my new jenn air
check the stove companies web site for a users manual also
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
SOURCE: oven quit working
Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.
Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.
You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.
The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
This means a
loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is
bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it
should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the
door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and
should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
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