Question about Echo CS330T 14" Bar Length Chain Saw

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The pull cord on my ECHO CS-330T broke at the very end and I removed the cover holding the cord and pulley and was able to replace the the cord with only about 1 inch missings. I replaced the cover and was able to start the engine ok, but the saw will not idle and runs about half speed. Also about 2" of the cord will not retract.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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kel1guy2002
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SOURCE: Can't pull the starter cord,

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Remove the muffler and clean out the exhaust port and screen. You will have to disassemble the muffler and clean off or replace the screen item 8 of this link:
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=echo&mn=CS-330T++S%2FN%3A+C08611001001+-+C08611999999&dn=7946

Before taking the muffler apart... unhook the spark plug and just pull it though with the muffler removed. If it pulls normally you know you have found the problem.

If it still pulls hard...check the exhaust port of the cylinder head for 2 tiny holes (not screw holes) Some have them some don't depending upon the year of the saw. If you do find 2 small holes that appear clogged with carbon... do your best to clean them out.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on May 15, 2011

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It realy depends on what model we are talking about, so i will give a general disciption, remove the four screws retaining the starter to the saw, remove the starter, if the cord is still under tention, pull the starter handle out approx 8", whilst held out hold the pulley to stop it retracting, let go the starter handle and unwind the now lose cord from around the pulley, once enough cord has been unwound let the pulley slowly turn until all the spring tention has gone, remove the center fixing screw, and remove the pulley, pull the old cord away, refit a new suitable diameter cord, knot the end and pull the cord into the pulley so as the knot sits flush into the hole in the pulley, wind the cord fully around the pulley,now refit the pulley to the cover, refit the centre screw ,push the other end of the cord through the cover eyelet and refit the starter handle with a suitable knot, now wind the cord around the pulley a further two times by turning the pulley and winding up the spring, allow the spring to pull the cord in, if required wind the pulley a further turn until the cord is suitably tentioned in the cover, replace the cover on the machine, pull the cord out to make sure it has engaged fully into the pawls before fully tightening the fixing screws.

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This is a messy frustrating job, and if you had to put a price on the hassle that it is, it is probably better to pay somebody else to do it. That said, remove the starter cover with the cord and pulley inside. If there is a plate holding down the cord pulley, remove it and carefully lift out the pulley, try not to dislodge the recoil spring as this is where the frustration part comes in. Remove the old cord and insert the new cord end into the hole and copy the old knot - pass the other end of the cord through the eyelet in the cover. N.B. At this time take note of the direction that the recoil spring coil is orientated. Wind about 3/4 of the cord around the pulley and attach the start handle to the outside end of the cord. Carefully fit the pulley over the spring and place the cord into the cutout in the pulley. Wind up the pulley so that it engages in the curl in the inside of the recoil spring and further wind up the pulley in the opposite direction of the normal pulley start pull, holding the cord in the little cut-out so that the cord does not wind up as you wind the spring. It probably takes about 5 extra turns on the pulley to get the recoil tension right. Always hold the pulley in place to prevent the spring from jumping out. Release the cord so it can retract and replace the retaining plate. This is all if the spring does not jump out - which it so often does.
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This procedure is as difficult to explain as it is to carry out. I have done many cord replacements and always dread the next one. Please rate this solution and if you have any problems, feel free to come back to me.

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Can't pull the starter cord, it's very hard to do. Removed spark plug and then the pull cord worked fine. Put the spark plug bvack in and once again the starter pull cord was hard to pull. Seems...


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Remove the muffler and clean out the exhaust port and screen. You will have to disassemble the muffler and clean off or replace the screen item 8 of this link:
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=echo&mn=CS-330T++S%2FN%3A+C08611001001+-+C08611999999&dn=7946

Before taking the muffler apart... unhook the spark plug and just pull it though with the muffler removed. If it pulls normally you know you have found the problem.

If it still pulls hard...check the exhaust port of the cylinder head for 2 tiny holes (not screw holes) Some have them some don't depending upon the year of the saw. If you do find 2 small holes that appear clogged with carbon... do your best to clean them out.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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This is a messy frustrating job, and if you had to put a price on the hassle that it is, it is probably better to pay somebody else to do it. That said, remove the starter cover with the cord and pulley inside. If there is a plate holding down the cord pulley, remove it and carefully lift out the pulley, try not to dislodge the recoil spring as this is where the frustration part comes in. Remove the old cord and insert the new cord end into the hole and copy the old knot - pass the other end of the cord through the eyelet in the cover. N.B. At this time take note of the direction that the recoil spring coil is orientated. Wind about 3/4 of the cord around the pulley and attach the start handle to the outside end of the cord. Carefully fit the pulley over the spring and place the cord into the cutout in the pulley. Wind up the pulley so that it engages in the curl in the inside of the recoil spring and further wind up the pulley in the opposite direction of the normal pulley start pull, holding the cord in the little cut-out so that the cord does not wind up as you wind the spring. It probably takes about 5 extra turns on the pulley to get the recoil tension right. Always hold the pulley in place to prevent the spring from jumping out. Release the cord so it can retract and replace the retaining plate. This is all if the spring does not jump out - which it so often does.
If the spring jumps out, hold it by the inside portion and start winding it up, pulling it tight to keep the coil small enough to fit back into its receptacle, . Once the spring is wound up and will fit into its position the problem starts. I found that gripping the spring with an alligator jaw vice grip will allow you to replace the spring and carefully release it without it going wild again, engaging the outer hook in its retaining slot or around its peg. Trying to feed the spring into position coil by coil seldom works, it has to be wound up outside and then inserted, especially on a small motor.
This procedure is as difficult to explain as it is to carry out. I have done many cord replacements and always dread the next one. If you have any problems, feel free to come back to me.

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EchoUSA
http://www.echo-usa.com/documentation.asp
I suggest you take your saw into your local NAPA Auto Parts store. You might also contact Echo and suggest they add bar nuts to their IPLs for the benefit of the next guy. HTH
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Thanks for using fixya

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