My unit starts up fine; cleaned out the filter and hose, got a new spray nozzle and fittings, changed the oil, but when Icrank up the unit it will not produce any high pressure. When I pull the nozzle trigger a very low pressure comes out of it, and when I say low I mean low. I have no idea what is wrong. Please help.
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There is a low oil level sensor on the opposite side of the engine as the oil fill / dipstick. The next time that your presure washer acts up disconnect ONE wire to the oil level sensor. On pressure washers mose engines have the oil level sensor removed for just this reason. You tip the engine to move the power washer and you can not start it or.. if you move it with the unit running the oil level sensor kills the ignition. Just make sure that anytime you are going to use it that you ensure the oil level is properly serviced. (Each use)
There is yet another possibility. Debris in the bottom of the fuel bowl will draft directly into the lower fuel jet (Located inthe bowl nut area) with a tip of the unit and clog the fuel nozzle. You can prove you have a fuel problem simply by adding gas to the carb throat with the air filter removed. If you get a brief start... you have a fuel not a spark problem. Turn off the fuel selector... remove the fuel float bowl nut and drop the float bowl. Use carb cleaner in the threaded area to clean out the orifice in the body of the carb and then remove the debris from the float bowl. CLEAN the bowl nut also.
Use a spray can lid for the next step under the float bowl area.
Open the fuel selector and gently lift the float to level. Fuel must shut off when near level and re-start fuel flow as you lower the float. The spray paint can lid should fill up in 8 seconds or less. If you have poor fuel flow start looking at the bottom of the gas tank or an inline fuel filter as the problem. Some fuel selectors have tiny bowls under the fuel selector lever. Make sure to clean this out also if you have one.
Turn off the fuel selector. Reinstall the float bowl making sure the rubber bowl gasket is fitted properly. Fuel selector ON... leak test. Then test start the unit and see if your symptom is gone.
This is a relatively easy SELF correction process. Mind you a pool is FRESH water.
1. Drain all gas by remove the hose that connects to carb and completly drain the gas tank. (If there is an in line fuel filter or glass debris bowl, change filter / empty bowl.
2. Remove float bowl nut and bowl and purge water. Spray carb with carb cleaner while float bowl is removed. Paying particular attention to the float bowl nut thread area (throat)
3. Drain Oil. AFTER step 5.
4. Pressure Pump oil should be fine as it is not vented. (depending on pump installed but none of them are vented.
5. Remove spark plug and put about 1 ounce gas directly into the cylinder IGN OFF! Pull recoil and let gas exit spark plug hole. Reinstall a NEW spark plug BPR5ES or similar
6. Service engine oil
7. Fan dry the unit over night. Simple floor fan will do. Leave the gas cap OFF / float bowl open overnight during Fan Air dry.
8. Next morning service gas tank
9. Select fuel on and let a small amout of gas leak before installing the float bowl and nut making sure the float bowl gsket is installed against the top of the float bowl.
Final testing time... Ign. on.. Test spark first. Spark check good. FUEL ON. Start.
Just make sure to change oil again in 10 hours. Water in oil will cause the oil to appear milky.
You can do this. Worst case the electronic ignition module fails. (They are cheap... !) Most of the time the coil will not need to be changed.
That is water de-contamination 101 and you just completed the course. Give it your best shot. It beats buying a new one and yes it is worth repairing.
The reason it stops spraying might be a clogged gun, hose or nozzle-tip.
The reason for pressure buildup killing the engine might be a stuck unloader valve in the pump.
While you are checking each component of the "output" side, spray some penetrating lube into the "input" side of the pump (where the garden hose connects) and let it be working on the unloader valve.
Fix the spraying problem first:
Start at the nozzle and verify that it is open by using low-pressure air. Clean or replace as needed. Next check the hose (with nozzle and gun unhooked) and finally the gun/trigger mechanism.
All must be clear and open to perform correctly.
Next, pour a few ounces of power steering fluid (or similarly LIGHT oil) into the garden hose, attach it to the pump and turn on the water supply.
Leave the "output" hose, gun, etc. UNHOOKED and point the output port of the pump (where the high-pressure hose connects) towards a vacant, safe area.
Startup the engine and allow the oil in the garden hose to work its way thru. (About 1 -3 minutes of run-time.) Shut it down and attach the high-pressure hose.
Hope this solves the problem!
The inlet screen orientation is of no consequence. Either way should work fine. Check two things...
1) Many of the spray nozzles have a high and low setting at the tip of the wand (where the water comes out). See if your nozzle has any "Push-Pull" movement (with the unit turned off). If so, it might be set in the "LOW" setting and needs to be changed.
2) Located on some SIDE MOUNTED pumps is a "Variable-Volume" adjustment. It may need to be turned to increase the flow and should be marked with a plus (+) and minus (-) along with direction arrow. NOTE: If your pump is mounted on the bottom of your engine you will not have this adjustment.
Hope this helps!
Hello You should siphon out all the old gas you can. Replace with new gas. Check that the spark plug is good and the air filter is clean. Spray some carb cleaner in the carburetor.. Also, you should check the oil level and change the oil if it is black. If it tries to start after you spray the carb cleaner in but won't keep going then you know the carburetor needs a good cleaning