My unit starts up fine; cleaned out the filter and hose, got a new spray nozzle and fittings, changed the oil, but when Icrank up the unit it will not produce any high pressure. When I pull the nozzle trigger a very low pressure comes out of it, and when I say low I mean low. I have no idea what is wrong. Please help.
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make sure you have washer fluid come out of the pump when on,if so maybe clogged hose to nozzle or nozzle clogged up which you can clean chemical residues with a sharp needle then moderately blow air(with air hose) from nozzle towards end of hose that connects to pump. Hope this helps. Oh,make sure not to wiggle the nozzle because then it would change direction of spray.
the nozzle should last as long as it is cleaned properly when the day is finished. Walmart sells Campbell equipment and/or many hardware stores do as well, the tip may not need to be specifc to your brand to fit, take the tip with you when go shopping. Also, check with your Cities maintenance department and find out where they buy there tools and parts, most likely you will find the parts you need there.
Try cleaning the photo eye flame sensor. It is the black rubber boot close to the burner. Remove it and you can see the sensor down inside. Clean it with a soft cloth or a cotton swab and some alcohol. Also check the air line for cracks and check for tightness where the air line connects to the fan motor and the fuel nozzle. If the hose is stretched there, try trimming a little off the end so it will fit tighter. Check the fuel line for the same thing where it connects to the fuel filter and fuel nozzle. Let me know what you find and don't forget to rate the answer. firstname.lastname@example.org
Probably not. Depending on your mileage and driving style it is more likely an Idle Air Control valve, Mass Airflow Sensor or Throttle body. I would purchase CRC MAF Cleaner and CRC Throttle Body cleaner. you will need to disconnect the induction hose from the air filter and throttle body. On the Taurus the air filter is loated on driver side under hood. Trace back from it and mid way youwill find a plastic cylinder that is wired in with a plug. Unplug the MAF. Make sure and notate which side is facing the engine as the air flow has to be the right way. I put a dot on the side that should face inward to remember the flow direction. Find a ventilated area and take the CRC MAF cleaner and spray the inside of the Mass airflow from about an inch away. Be careful there are very fine wires inside that can be broken by the nozzle by touching or being too close when spraying. Spray liberally and then set aside to dry. Continuing up the intake you will find the throttle body whihc is a cirucular intake that is metalic It has a butterfly valve inside. Use the same CRC brand but this time us CRC Throttle body cleaner. DONT USE CARB CLEANER OR OTHER BRAND. Ford coats their Throttle bodies with teflon and any other brand can eat this lining away. Clean in short bursts. You can gently take a clean shop rag to wipe inside with your finger as sprayed to dislodge some of the dirt, but be gentle. Dont use stiff brushes.. A qtip, a soft bristle tooth brush with very light pressure. as well. Clean it very well. Place rag underneath to catch any run off. After its cleaned and teh MAF is cleaned, replace the air filter and reassemble the unit. The car will be hard to start at first. Turn it over a few times and it will start. It will sputter a bit and then should run better. The plugs on modern vehicles are set to run 100K miles or more before changing and unless you are burning oil and fouling them out they should be fine. Start with MAF and Throttle body first. then move to plugs..Finally, the MAF and Throttle body should be cleaned every other oil change.
I had this problem. It was small pieces of debris that got into the solution lines and clogged all the nozzles. There is a nozzle for the handheld attachments, one on the front of the machine for spraying spots and two nozzles underneath just behind the rotating brushes.
It was a royal pain disconnecting the clear rubber hoses inside the machine and blowing out the nozzles and the hoses with compressed air. If you are mechanically challenged I'd suggest you take the machine to a vacuum/steam cleaner repair facility.
I'm not sure how the debris got into the solution system, but it may have been when the dirty water tank was emptied some of the dirty water entered the internal, clean water bladder.
A note to Bissell engineers: This issue can be prevented if you simply add an easily accessable solution and/or water filter that the customers can remove, clean and reinstall. Just a suggestion.
need to check to see if oil filter is not clogged and letting fuel get to unit if no fuel change filter and try to start will most likely have to bleed system to start and before season have unit serviced new nozzle and air filters replaced as well as cleaning
The reason it stops spraying might be a clogged gun, hose or nozzle-tip.
The reason for pressure buildup killing the engine might be a stuck unloader valve in the pump.
While you are checking each component of the "output" side, spray some penetrating lube into the "input" side of the pump (where the garden hose connects) and let it be working on the unloader valve.
Fix the spraying problem first:
Start at the nozzle and verify that it is open by using low-pressure air. Clean or replace as needed. Next check the hose (with nozzle and gun unhooked) and finally the gun/trigger mechanism.
All must be clear and open to perform correctly.
Next, pour a few ounces of power steering fluid (or similarly LIGHT oil) into the garden hose, attach it to the pump and turn on the water supply.
Leave the "output" hose, gun, etc. UNHOOKED and point the output port of the pump (where the high-pressure hose connects) towards a vacant, safe area.
Startup the engine and allow the oil in the garden hose to work its way thru. (About 1 -3 minutes of run-time.) Shut it down and attach the high-pressure hose.
Hope this solves the problem!
If you have to run with the choke on, it's having problems pulling gas thru the carb. Start making sure that you're using fresh gas/oil mix. Don't attempt to use last years leftover in the tank or a spare can. Bad news... won't fire well. Second, pop the carb lines off the carb and flush with carb spray cleaner (use the nozzle tube that comes with the can). Third, check for cracks, breaks, leaks in the supply and return hoses. Replace any damaged hoses. Disconnect the carb from the engine and spray all jets, orifices with carb cleaner (I like the Berryman's B-12 spray) and reinstall. Also, pull the filter out of the air filter and clean, reinstall. While you're at it, pop the spark plug out and clean the tip with carb spray as well. Finally pour in a fresh gas/oil mix...start as usual. should be alot better!