Question about Estate Washing Machines
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description it sounds like a lid switch problem.
Here`s how you can check it pretty easily...
( this is based on the most common Whirlpool, Estate, Kitchen-Aid, Roper, Kenmore, Inglis topload washer, not neccessarily applicable to ALL...especially those built in the past 1-2yrs. the model number would distinguish if it applies to your particular model )
Lift the lid, if you observe the underside of the lid there will be a plastic "strike" or "actuator" that goes into a hole when the lid is closed.
Check the hole where the actuator goes into the cabinet and insure you can see a gray oval shaped piece. If so take a small screw-driver, pen/pencil or something small enough to fit thru the small hole and try activating the switch by pushing it down ( machine must be in the agitate or spin cycle ). If you don't see it, the switch has likely broken loose and needs to be replaced.
If it start's to function than the switch is not being contacted properly by the actuator on the lid and likely is due to the switch being worn...unless the actuator on the lid is broke, if so there`s the problem.
Make sure the switch is being held in place via the two screws along the side, if they are loose tighten them, if it is broken, it will need to be replaced.
Here`s a helpful link for changing it out,
The lid switch will look like this...
Let me know what you find and if I can assist you further.
Posted on Aug 19, 2010
Make sure the lid is closed, or check the lid switch for continuity when lid is closed.
If the lid switch is operating properly,then troubleshoot or replace the control timer / cycle selector.
GOOD LUCK !
Posted on Aug 19, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I recently had this problem. It was found that the main drive belt broke and the washer would fill but not spin, agitate or drain. I replaced the belt and everything worked again. A defective or disconnected cover switch would also cause the same problem.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
There are two possible causes. The most likely cause is the lid switch, which is supposed to keep you from sticking your hand into the moving basket. On many washers this only keeps the machine from spinning, but on other models it prevents agitating as well. The other possibility is the water level switch, but that usually causes no filling or overfilling if it's bad.
Both parts are available from Sears (www.searspartsdirect.com) and many other online sources. (I normally use the Sears site to find a part number if I don't already know it, then search for that number on Google. It's a great way to find good prices on more costly parts.) There are also a number of sites with detailed information about how to remove the cabinet to get at the parts if you want to try doing it yourself. Replacing these parts is pretty simple if you're comfortable with a screwdriver and have some mechanical ability.
If you'd rather have someone else repair the machine, this would normally be about a 1 hour plus parts charge for an appliance technician. It isn't time for a new washer yet.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
Check lid switch. Most will not run with lid open and the switch may not be pressed down when door is closed
Posted on May 17, 2009
Hi. your timer assembly is faulty. it is not initiating the spin and proper wash cycle due to this malfunction. the timer is responsible for the actions and commands. if its defective, it will not carry out the initiations correctly.
CLICK HERE TO BE DIRECTED TO THE PURCHASE PAGE FOR YOU REPLACEMENT TIMER.
Posted on May 23, 2009
HI. the internal components that make up the agitator should be inspected for damage.
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cause this disruption is the Motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
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