Question about Refrigerators
The fact that it was running fine before you replaced the pipe indicates the problem is with either the connections on either side or possibly the pipe is kinked or the wires from the solonoid pipe have been accidently moved. Firstly Dissconnect each end and see if pipe is clear and round on both sides. if good, blow into one end and see if blowing is possible. Then replace one side of pipe onto solonid side. With the opposite end open activate the valve. Water should come out in about 3 seconds. no water = vave not activating.If you are not farmiliar with mains power i suggest you dont test solonoid by yourself. Get help. Put a lead onto the solonoid and plug into mains. Switch on briefly and see if sol. activates with water exiting on the open side. If so switch off and reconnect pipe onto connecter that old one came off from.Once connected, have someone check inside at the icemaker while you put power on to the valve again.If water comes out, switch off- pull plug out then reinsert solonoid wires back onto the sol. Must work. Very seldom will the valve be a problem. Another thing you could do is to activate the test button function.
Posted on Aug 19, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: water leaking
Tarena, it's been my experience with Amana that tells me you have a failed water inlet valve.
Here's how it works; Water comes from the wall into the fridge to the valve I'm talking about. Now this valve works like this... When you put a cup in the dispenser area to get cold water a switch sends 120 volts to the valve and it opens up allowing water to flow through it. When you remove the cup, power is shut off at the valve... the valve is supposed to close all the way, if it didn't there would be water dripping from the dispenser area, right? (Like a leaky faucet) If the valve is bad, it won't open at all. (Like a blown out light bulb)
The ice maker is similar. When it "harvests" ice and it drops into the ice bin, the IM will send 120 volts to the valve (for 5 seconds or so) to re-fill the ice mold so it can make another batch. Now when the power is removed from the valve, it's supposed to shut off all the way. If it didn't, there would be water dripping into the ice maker fill tube (in the freezer behind the ice maker). drip, drip drip... one after the other.
Let's assume that the ice maker valve didn't close all the way. What would happen then? As these drops of water enter the freezer compartment and are heading down the ice maker fill tube toward the ice maker, they don't make it all the way 'cause they FREEZE in the tube! One drop at a time, week after week. ('course you never notice it, 'cause it's in the freezer) Now... the ice maker is still trying to make ice, so every 45 minutes or so it sends 120 volts to the valve to get more water. But the water fill tube has ice in it because of the water drops that have accumulated there. This goes on over time and eventually the water fill tube becomes completely BLOCKED with ice due to those water drops.
Now what happens? The ice maker is still trying to make ice, but the fill tube is blocked... it can't get water through it. But when the water valve opens up to allow water to the ice maker, where does it go? Since the fill tube is blocked, all that water pressure builds up in the water line (tube) that feeds the ice maker and eventually it blows out! (you can verify this... pull the refrigerator out from the wall, look at the water line going to the ice maker. There's a connector back there for the tube to fit into. This is what's blown out.) Now the tube is just dangling there and not hooked up to the ice maker any longer. Since the ice maker is still running, every time it asks for water it sprays out and onto the wall and floor back there through this dangling tube.
The repair? Replace the valve. It's easy. The part number is 67005154 and it lists for about $21.00. You can find one at any appliance parts retailer. (you'll see where the valve is located... it's where the water line hooks up behind the fridge.) UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE WHILE YOU WORK ON IT!!!
Just replacing the valve is only half the job. You'll still need to remove the ice build up in the ice maker fill tube. Do this by pulling it straight out the back of the refrigerator and putting it under warm running water. Then re-install it and hook the water tube back up to it.
On some models, you can not remove the fill tube. If you can't get it out the back, you'll have to do it from the freezer compartment behind the ice maker (a little more work, but still do-able). It's easiest by removing the ice maker.... pull the ice bin out and set it aside. Then remove the 3 screws holding the ice maker. You don't have to disconnect the wires, just try to get it out of your way the best you can. Now take a hair dryer and thaw out the fill tube until the ice slides out of there. Then rebuild it.
There ya go! Job time? about an hour. Part cost? about $21.00. Knowing that you fixed it yourself? Priceless.
Posted on Oct 15, 2007
SOURCE: leaking water line
should have a small metel clamp there if not you can get a small clamp about any where and the fill tube being partialy frozen can be an issue the easiest way ive found to deal with this is to get a eureka 301 hand held enviro steamer its a little investment but there are about 1000 outher uses for it around the house and it wont hurt the fridge just let it heat stick the tip in the in the ice maker fill tube where the water line goes and pull the trigger till steam comes out the other end bingo does windows sinks stoves etc.thaws evaprators clears frozen drains seal door gaskets without melting them getting this master tech http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Eureka-350-Hot-Shot-Enviro-Steamer/371207/product.html?fp=F&kid=4087&cid=52417
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
SOURCE: leaking water from the ice maker
It is very unlikely that you have a leaking water line inside the fridge/freezer, as they are protected from damage. If you have water dripping from the ice maker inside the freezer and/or the dispenser in the door, the most likely problem is the valve that supplies water to the ice maker.
You'll need to replace the water inlet valve that supplies water to the ice maker. This is not the same valve that supplies water to the fridge (I believe the yellow colored valve) but rather, it is the blue valve, mounted just above the main water inlet valve.
At the bottom back right side of the fridge, you can remove the covering and see both the yellow and blue valves. The yellow one (on the bottom) is the incoming water control valve, while the blue (upper one) supplies water to the ice maker.
The part runs about $45-50 if you get it yourself, or around $185.00 for a repair person to come out and do the job for you. It should only take about 20-30 minutes to do it yourself with a small 1/4" nutdriver. Part available from Searspartsdirect.com or several other online and local stores. Just call around and give them your fridge model number and serial number, located on the inside of the fresh food section of the fridge - on the "ceiling" just inside the door.
Hope that helps.
Posted on May 07, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 06, 2014 | GE Refrigerators
Before going to buy any parts
Go through this troubleshooting help links.
This is list of refrigerator problems,
which is normally faced in refrigerator.
You can go through the details, by clicking the link below:---
Refrigerator is not cooling properly?
Both refrigerator and freezer not cooling properly in refrigerator?
The ice maker not working: ---
Compressor not running on refrigerator?
Water dispenser not working on refrigerator?
other ice maker related issues and solutions:---
These will help.
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