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Not letting water in, solenoid is ok, no 240v on terminals of solenoid. Is PCB stuffed?

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Sounds like your float is either stuck in the up position or no good. and or it could be your door switch
It has to be either your door switch or your float if you are not getting the voltage to the solinoid
if you open the door to the dishwasher you will see the float to the very left front or the right front. pull up and down do you hear a click sound? if no then that is your problem

Posted on Aug 19, 2010

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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WH40 water heater timer: Does black wire from service box go to terminal #1 and black wire to water heater to terminal #2? Does neutral (white) from service box go to terminal #3 and neutral (white) to...


WH40 is 240Volt timer.
WH40 will not work with 120V circuit.

See WH40 wiring illustration at following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html

There are two hot wires in 240V circuit because every circuit requires two wires to complete the circuit.
Hot wires from breaker connect to terminal 1 and 3.
Notice that small white wires are also connected to terminals 1 and 3.
Small white wires power clock motor located on back of mechanism, so this says power from breaker box must arrive on terminals 1 and 3. This insures that clock motor runs continuously.
If clock motor only runs when manual override switch is clicked ON, then your Hot and Load wires are reversed.

Bare ground wire connects to green ground screw.
Wires going to Load (water heater) connect to terminals 2 and 4.

FYI: Terminal A is not used unless circuit also has a Neutral wire,
See basic water heater circuit Diagram #2:
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html

Terminal A is also used if you want to convert WH40 to 120V timer by replacing 240V clock with 120V clock.
How to convert Intermatic 240V timer to 120V timer
http://www.fixya.com/support/t7353947-intermatic_timer_wg

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I have a Et 70115C Intermatic Timer, I want to install it on my Hot Water Heater, I have connected the 2 110V leads from my breaker to Terminals 1 & 2 and connected the two leads from the hot water...


A) 5 terminal ET70115C.
Voltage selector set to 240.

B) BUT you say you have 120Volts from breaker >>> confusing, so I'm proceeding on basis that you meant to say 240V from breaker.
Add a comment at any time.

C) Review timer:
5-terminal ET70115 timer has NO and NC terminals
NC is normally closed >> this terminal has power when timer is OFF
NO is normally open >> this terminals has power when timer turns ON
For water heater, you want NO terminal 4 so water heater turns ON when timer turns ON

D) Wire for 240Volt water heater

Two hot wires from breaker connect to terminals 1 and 2. This powers timer clock.
Jumper wire connects between terminal 2 to terminal 3. This sends power to the switch circuit.
Wires to water heater connect to terminals 1 and 4

E) 5-terminal timer turns off 1 hot wire to 240V water heater.
Turning off 1 hot wire will stop 240V circuit from working; Water heater thermostats also turn off one hot wire.
240V water heater has black and red wire.
Wire from terminal 4 should connect to Black wire on water heater.

Diagram shows two wires on terminal 1
Two wires on terminal 2
One jumper wire on terminal 3
One wire on terminal 4
Zero wires on terminal 5


geno_3245_133.jpg

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My EH40 is not supplying power to the water heater. I hooked the power line in to posts 1 and 2 and I hooked the load out to posts 4 and 6. When I use my power checker it reads no power to posts 3,4,5,...


I have an EH 40 sitting in front of me right now.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html
The link above shows correct 240V water heater timer wiring for EH40
Link below shows an overview picture of EH 40 connected to 240V water heater
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/EH40-water-heater-circuit-5.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html


EH40 has a 240V clock.
Terminals 1 and 2 send power to the 240V clock
Power to the clock terminals do not pass through timer to any other terminal

How to wire EH40 for 240V
240V line has 2 hot wires from breaker box.
Lets call these wires Hot1 and Hot2
These wire are interchangeable on 240V circuit
Hot1 connects to terminal 1 with a jumper to terminal 3 (or connect to 3 and jumper to 1)
Hot2 connects to terminal 2 with a jumper to terminal 5 (or connect to 5 and jumper to 2)

240V circuit has 2 wires going to the Load
Let's call these Load1 and Load2
These wires are interchangeable on 240V circuit
Load1 connects to terminal 4
Load2 connects to terminal 6

If the timer is still not working, go back to the breaker and test if it is delivering 240V to the circuit.
If breaker is bad on one leg, then the circuit can test with live power, but the 240V appliance will not work.
240V circuit requires both legs of 240V before circuit is complete.

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Error code 52 on a r63lse tankless water heater. Hot water service becomes intermittant water gets hot then cools may or may not restart without turning flow off and then back on. How do you check the...


Just a first thought on this one. I had a fault on a new unit where dust had got in to the gas supply and completly stuffed up the modulating adjustment. Took me an hour to figure it out and about 3 hours to strip the gas valve down and clear it out. Problem is the Rinnai has a large micron steel gauze on the gas line filter in the bottom of the gas valve and lets small debris through. If you have had any work done on your gas line recently just keep this one in the back of your mind.

The modulating solenoid is the large one on the front of the gas valve, next to the circuit board, the pin connecting it can go either way around.
If you are good with electrics you can check the resistance across the solenoid. UNPLUG THE POWER SUPPLY BEFORE OPENING THE FRONT CASE. Take the white lead plug off the solenoid and put a ohms reading acroos the two terminals. Hopfully you should have a little plastic sleeve attached to the inside of the front panel with a single A4 data sheet. On one side of this should be a list of the test points and what reading to expect. Check this if you have it but as a guide 60-100 ohms is what you are looking for.

As far as what might be wrong my hunch would be either PCB or the valve itself, Rinnai solenoid valves are normally really good so I would go with a PCB if I needed to try something. Dont try adjusting or replacing the gas valve unless you digital gas pressure testing equipment as the settings are crucial to the safe operation of the heater.

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ERROR H20 STOPS PROGRAM DUE TO LIMITED WATER...WHAT CAN I DO?


The fact that you have 240V to the valve does not prove that the valve is o/k. Determine which is the live wire, and leave connected to valve coil.
You need to remove the neutral wire from the valve, and test with your meter that as well as having 240V going in, you have 240V coming out on the other terminal, if you have not , then you have a faulty valve..Simply replace it.
I assume that you have a neutral feed to the valve, because if you have not, then the fault is probably in the pcb board.
The coils on these valves often go open circuit.
Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.

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if you have 240v going through the element then you have a broken neutral somewhere.Check the wires in the door,the thermostats,or the timer/pcb.the elemwnt wont be faulty.

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