How do you remove the brake pedal from a 1994 sportser.

Switch is mounted on break pedal.pulling off the two connecting wires and touching together should activate break lights (ign on) if not its a fuse or break in wires.if it does light then switch is broken or mis adjusted

sounds like a problem in the master cylinder

you definitely need to bleed the breaks

How to Bleed your Brakes by Yourself

here you go...

The power brake booster is a tandem vacuum suspended unit. Some models may be equipped with a single or dual function vacuum switch which activates a brake warning light should low booster vacuum be present. Under normal operation, vacuum is present on both sides of the diaphragms. When the brakes are applied, atmospheric air is admitted to one side of the diaphragms to provide power assistance.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1994-97 Models
See Figures 1 and 2

1. Apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
2. Remove the master cylinder-to-power brake booster nuts, then reposition the master cylinder and combination valve out of the way; if necessary, support the master cylinder on a wire to prevent damaging the brake lines.

When removing the master cylinder from the power brake booster, it is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic lines, therefore the brake system should not have to be bled.

1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power brake booster.

Fig. Fig 1: Common power brake booster attachment

1. From under the dash, remove the retainer and washer from the brake pedal on 1994 utility models. On all other models, remove the retainer and brake switch from the brake pedal.
2. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal.
3. From under the dash, remove the power brake booster-to-cowl retaining nuts.
4. Back under the hood, remove the power brake booster and the gasket from the cowl.

To install:

1. Position the booster to the cowl using a new gasket.
2. Install the bo oster retaining nuts and tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) 1994 utility models, 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) on 1994 pick-up models and 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm) on all 1995-97 models.
3. Connect the pedal pushrod and install the washer or switch and the retainer.
4. Connect the vacuum hose.

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking the piston booster rod using the gauge tool

1. For all vehicles cover ed in this guide, gauge the booster rod:
   1. Apply 25 in. Hg (85 kPa) of vacuum using a hand held vacuum pump or apply maximum engine vacuum.
   2. Chec k the maximum and minimum rod lengths using J-37839 or an equivalent pushrod height gauge.
   3. If the piston is not within limits, install a service adjustable piston rod and adjust it to the correct length.
2. Reposition the master cylinder and combination valve bracket to the booster studs, then secure using the retaining nuts. For details, please refer to the master cylinder procedure located earlier in this section.
3. Start and run the engine, then check for proper booster operation.

replace brake switch. Located on brake pedal, just above pedal on steel shaft. Crouch beneath dash and look up, you will see it. No tools required, just turn counter-clockwise to remove and unplug wire

you can replace your brake switch, which is located by the pedal, or you can remove a little plastic cover by your shifter, stick a screwdriver in that hole and it will release the lock for your shifter

There is an electric selinoid that releases when you depress the brake pedal. It should be under the cover were your shifter is. That can go bad. You might have a blown fuse or the switch on the brake pedal could be bad. You should have a place to remove a cap and insert you key to get the car into netural.

the brake light switch is located on the actual brake pedal on the top of it located under the dash very easy to get to you dont need to remove anything hard just look where the top of rhe pedal is and you will see it

Most of the time with the rear brakes locking up the brake drums are warpped. If you remove the rear brake drums and take them to almost any auto parts store (Napa, Checkers ect.) they will turn the drums for about $10 a piece.

After you have the drums turned you will need to readjust the rear brakes.

There's a little switch attached to your brake pedal, (In my old 9000 it was about halfway up above the pedal itself, haven't had that problem with my 9-3.... yet;) that can get gummed up and stick, making intermittent contact and also holding the lights on without pressure.

I just got up in there and cleaned it out really well with some WD-40. That seemed to exorcise the evil brake spirits pretty decently.

-R