Question about Jenn-Air Microwave Ovens

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Jenn Air WM2780B (Wall oven with Microwave) - it starting beeping, got a code that said F1, wouldn't stop beeping even after pushing cancel and stop buttons pushed. So we had to shut off circuit breaker for awhile & the put it on. Do you know what's going on? Thank You for your help

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 8820 Answers

SOURCE: Jenn-air model jmc7000

First of all, a microwave should be on its own circuit breaker. It's very common for a breaker to blow if it has a microwave and a fridge, etc., on the same circuit. The fuse is usually rated at a lower current than the breaker, so it's very unusual for a microwave to blow a breaker without blowing the fuse. Once a breaker blows a few times, it should really be replaced. It has a bimetallic element which will experience metal fatigue and become inaccurate. This could be the problem, too. The breaker for a microwave should be no less than 15 amps, and 20-30 is better. If you or a friend has a a clamp-on ammeter, you can monitor the current the microwave consumes. This can be helpful in diagnosis.

Posted on Nov 01, 2006

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SOURCE: JMC7000ADW Blows circuit breaker

I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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  1. Disconnect power to stove
  2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
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  4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
  5. Turn power back on to stove.
  6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
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Hi, my name is Audrey and I am a Jenn-Air employee. I would appreciate the opportunity to assist you with your microwave. Please send me an email through our customer service address,

NAR_JennAir_CustomerExperience@JennAir.com

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Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

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http://www.fixya.com/support/r5508031-microwave_oven_basic_troubleshooting

heatman101

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So it's dead? (No display, no inside lights, no beeps?)

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the thermostat to open. When it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or fuse holder.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

Please write back with more details if you need further help.

We appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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