When I run the machine it runs and completes the cycle without giving any error codes. However, the clothes are not cleaned - they are not even fully wet. I have checked the machine and watched it run, and it appears that the hot water intake is not taking in any water - only the cold water is working. Consequently the machine is running with insufficient water. I have checked the hot water tap and it is working fine. Can u advise? Many Thanks.
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Re: Water not filling up properly
More than likely, you have a problem with the filter screen in the hot water valve behind the machine. Turn the hot water off and remove the hose connection to washer. Check the filter screen inside the water valve to make sure that there is no debris blocking it. You can pull the screen out and rinse through with water. Also, hold the screen up into the light to see if you can see through the screen clearly. You may want to use an old toothbrush to clean it out. Reassembly the filter screen back into the water valve.
Get a small bucket and run the water through to clear out any debris in the water line. Reconnect the water hose to the washer and try starting the machine. If you still have water issues, then a qualified LG technician is needed to find the problem.
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On mine, it does not swim clothes in water, but certain parts of the cycle, you do see water in the machine.
1) are the clothes damp at the end of the wash?
2) more importantly, are the clothes clean?
3) do you see / hear water enter on cycle start?
1) loosen / remove the fill hose and verify you have water pressure in the fill hose.
2) read on this forum for test cycle proceedure. Run tests.
3) if it truly had no water, I am sure there would be an error code. Look that code up.
4) Download the manual, and follow their test / fix steps.
Note: the test proceedure, error codes and manual are mentioned by helpers in posts where I have had questions. See if you can look up my previous posts.
possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors
due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program
controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN
pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from
the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the
water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the
voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no
voltage from the controller. This means
the controller is a suspect.
That code is the no fill, or no water code. Either one of your water valves isn't working properly, or the lines have sediment restricting the volume of water which in return will give you the nf code as well. What I would do is turn the water to the machine off and remove the water lines and make sure they aren't filled will calcium, etc. and look in the water valves where the hoses connect because that are, which has a screen, may be full of nastiness.If both those are good somewhere inside the body of the machine is a tech guide which will tell you how to go into diagnoistic mode and run test on every part of the machine to narrow down the actuall problem.
This error generally happens when people try to run a bulky load, like a coat, rug, pillow, etc., using a high speed spin. For these loads, choose the low speed spin. After the cycle completes, if you think the clothes are too wet, power up the machine again but instead of choosing a cycle, just push the spin speed button until it shows the next higher spin speed (usually about 14 minutes will show on the display) and push start. The machine will usually be able to get to a faster speed now, as the clothes have some of the water spun out of them from the earlier low speed spin, allowing the machine to reach a higher spin speed without the Unbalance Error code showing up. Of course, you want to make sure the machine is on a solid floor with all the legs adjusted properly also.
I'm guessing the HOSE is the drain hose.
The goop is causing the drain motor to overheat causing it to report error. (luckily or it'd burn out).
Give it a empty load with nothing in it to see if it flushes it all out.
See if it completes full cycle and check pump filter again to see if clean.
TIP. Make sure you check ALL pockets before you wash clothes.
IE is an inlet error indicating that the machine has not filled up to the correct water level within 10 minutes. Could be a bad inlet valve, low water pressure or a problem with the inlet hoses (do not use anti flood hoses with these machines, use only the included fill hoses).
It sounds like all of your problems lie with the water fill. If the dispenser compartments do not get water added to them then the soap, bleach, and/or softener will not dispense properly. Then it will still be present and may dispense on the next load instead.
It is also VERY important that you use an HE (high efficiency) detergent and the correct amount (2-3 tablespoons per load). Otherwise you could end up with oversudsing issues which can also keep the bleach from dispensing properly.
Also make sure to not use GEL bleach, GEL detergent or GEL softener as they are too heavy and will not dispense properly. If all of these recommendations do not help then there is a definite issue with the incoming water supply from the inlet valves (especially if the IE errors continue). In that case you will need a technician to check the inlet valves inside the machine.
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.
It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
If the washer fills up with water and you hear the motor running but the agitator doesn’t move, the agitator coupling is the most likely problem. First pump the water out by turning the timer to spin. Once the water is out, turn the washer off. Now pull up on the agitator until it comes off (it may be hard to pull off). Now that the agitator is off, you can see the agitator coupling, reach down and try to turn the coupling. If the coupling turns freely, it is striped out and needs to be replaced.