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Thank you for your response. What do you mean by manually controlling the heat? Our builder installed it incorrectly and there is not much chance that we can get him to correct it. I am just trying to avoid rewiring through the walls as the thermostat is about 12-13 feet away from the unit.
There is also a C Terminal for Common -- which is typically required only for digital thermostats. The W. Eis Electric Heat. Could I disconnect that as the O is for the reversing valve (which I understand controls the heat pump/AC). Is there some reason I would have to have the electric heat? This unit is in an room addition.
Thanks again for your help!There is also a C Terminal for Common -- which is typically required only for digital thermostats. The W. Eis Electric Heat. Could I disconnect that as the O is for the reversing valve (which I understand controls the heat pump/AC). Is there some reason I would have to have the electric heat? This unit is in an room addition.
I am really a dumby at all of this stuff -- the only stuff I know is what I read today, so please excuse my ignorance. So, byt heat pump terminal board, that is in the main unit, correct? Disconnecting the electric heat won't affect the defrosting of the main unit as that is for only back up, correct?
Again, you have been very helpful -- much more so than Carrier.I am really a dumby at all of this stuff -- the only stuff I know is what I read today, so please excuse my ignorance. So, byt heat pump terminal board, that is in the main unit, correct? Disconnecting the electric heat won't affect the defrosting of the main unit as that is for only back up, correct?
Again, you have been very helpful -- much more so than Carrier.
Again, thanks so very much for your help, knowledge and direction! I am a 51 year old women and own a legal services company so this is TOTALLY out of my realm. You have take an big burden off of my shoulders! Thanks You!!!Again, thanks so very much for your help, knowledge and direction! I am a 51 year old women and own a legal services company so this is TOTALLY out of my realm. You have take an big burden off of my shoulders! Thanks You!!!
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24VAC Heat/Cool Single-Stage Heat Pump
A common heat pump system has the following wiring & connections:
Description
Color
Terminal Code
24VAC Return
Red
R
Call For Auxiliary Heat
White
W1
Force Fan On
Green
G
Compressor
Yellow
Y or Y1
Changeover
Orange
C/O or O
The electric heat is normally a backup system in the event of very low ambient temperatures. I would use the wire now connected for the electric heat and move it to the terminal for your change over for the heat pump and then route it to the proper connection at the heat pump terminal board.The electric heat is normally a backup system in the event of very low ambient temperatures. I would use the wire now connected for the electric heat and move it to the terminal for your change over for the heat pump and then route it to the proper connection at the heat pump terminal board.
Heat pump defrost is controlled by a timer at or in the main unit. The electric heat is for heating only and has nothing to do with defrosting the heat pump. Heat pump is defrosted by it reversing the cycle and using the hot gas from the compressor for the defrost.Heat pump defrost is controlled by a timer at or in the main unit. The electric heat is for heating only and has nothing to do with defrosting the heat pump. Heat pump is defrosted by it reversing the cycle and using the hot gas from the compressor for the defrost.
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E3 means that the heating element is operating when it should not be doing so. It may be caused by an older, weaker element that is taking too long to heat the water or the thermostat may be giving incorrect readings. Ensure you are using hot water to fill the machine (if tied to your faucet water supply, run the water until it is hot before starting the dishwasher). Information from the Belling manual:
If the heating element is still heating after the allowed time, then the control board will advance the programme to next step and at the end of the washing cycle the alarm buzzer will sound for 30 sec and the display will show E3.
When the control board detects that the heating element is operating during a non heating step or during the internal test the heating circuit is found to be open circuit then the alarm buzzer will sound for 30 sec and the control board will cease all functions except for the drain cycle which will run for 90 seconds and then E3 will be displayed on the control panel.
The system type has been incorrectly set during the installer setup. The t/stat thinks there is auxiliary heat equipment that is controlled by a signal on the Aux-E terminal which you obviously don't have. My recommendation would be to go to the Honeywell website and download a copy of the installation guide for the FocusPro 8000 and go through the installer setup again but select the appropriate system type under setup function 1.
Usually wen the led lights are blinking it means there is a problem. If you look on the door or the cover there should be a code that tells you what the blinking represents.
Example - one blink per second - compressor, two blinks - fan motor, etc. The other thing you can do is look up the model number on line for the installation manual and it should have all the info you need.
When you say you have no heat is this referring to nothing when control is turned on? Does fan work? or you have no hot air at all. If no fan could be a blown fuse [blower motor] thermostat could be installed incorrectly or faulty. Could be a faulty heater control valve if you have one not allowing hot water into heater core.
do you mean the heater isnt giving hot air or the blower motor doesnt work if you have no heat check prestone level in rad possible thermostat not working rad cap leaking pressure inside car vent not closing or opening is this a fully electric heater control or manual type with cables what i mean do you push a button forr heat or turn a knob on the heater if it is a knob its manual type and the cables run to your feet on the passenger side sometimes they pop out and the control stays at the last position or if push button type electric the heater control burns you have to take the control off to see if not burnt but for know check the traps are closing and opening
it sounds to me like the passenger side control knob needs to be exchanged. This or there should be a relay in the line that is faulty. try wiring the driver's side control to the wires coming into the passenger side control. If this doesn't work, then it may be a computer glitch.
What you mean replacing the display? Is it changing the settings? If so just go to Display settings in CONTROL PANEL and change the resolution to 1280x1024. Thank you.
Do it right. Have the wiring changed so it works as it is supposed to. The remote control would make controlling the heat a manual operation. I don't think you want this.
There is also a C Terminal for Common -- which is typically required only for digital thermostats. The W. Eis Electric Heat. Could I disconnect that as the O is for the reversing valve (which I understand controls the heat pump/AC). Is there some reason I would have to have the electric heat? This unit is in an room addition.
Thanks again for your help!
I am really a dumby at all of this stuff -- the only stuff I know is what I read today, so please excuse my ignorance. So, byt heat pump terminal board, that is in the main unit, correct? Disconnecting the electric heat won't affect the defrosting of the main unit as that is for only back up, correct?
Again, you have been very helpful -- much more so than Carrier.
Again, thanks so very much for your help, knowledge and direction! I am a 51 year old women and own a legal services company so this is TOTALLY out of my realm. You have take an big burden off of my shoulders! Thanks You!!!
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