I had to replace a small section of the galvanized steel main water line at my house today. In conducting the repair, some small pieces of corrosion material entered the line. After turning the service back on to the house, I went to all the faucets and removed the aerators to let the corrosive pieces pass through. All the fixtures handled the process well, except for my Blanco single handle kitchen faucet. The flow from that particular fixture is noticeably diminished. Is it possible some of the aforementioned corrosive pieces are caught in a port somewhere? I'm thinking along the line of Delta faucets which have a central control ball with various ports. -Thank you-

I responded to post about the 'cast iron' pipe. If the pipe you are referring to is a water line pipe, a galvanized pipe, that has pressure in it https://d131fdiz3j4gax.cloudfront.net/product-images/normal/jones-stephens-corp-stainless-steel-repair-clamp-r60-050 You are better off using a repair clamp. Measure the outside diameter of the pipe. Go to a local plumbing supply house and ask for a repair clamp that will fit the diameter of the pipe.

Do you have steel galvanized piping going into your house from the main? That can do that when it gets corroded.

10 year old homes today usually do not have galvanized pipe. They have copper or pex plastic pipe. These do not rust.
Is rusty water on both hot and cold line, or just hot line?
Just hot line, then check anode rod and flush tank:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html#flush
Are you on water well? Well casing can get rusted. Water can have minerals. Call local water well service and describe problem in detail.
Are you on city water or mudd district water? Is pipe coming into house made of galvanized? Look inside meter box or look at pipe coming into house. Sometimes the city water line at end of run can get filled with sediments that will discolor water. Have water company flush the city water line.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You could have excessive inlet water pressure , or bad valve .

The last sentence in the description of the problem, says it all.

I too, have had the problem, Tony. But, in addition, to the hard water,I discovered something that I didn't know. In our home's water system (our home is 30 years old) , someone prior to our ownership had installed a 6' section of galvanized pipe (possibly a repair). If you're not familiar with galvanized pipe and what hard water (High iron content) will do, it rust from the inside out. This 6" piece was almost totally clogged with rust and corrosion. This is also the effect it can have on a water heater. Especially, the sacrificial anode rod inside the heater (if it's an electric water heater) That's why it's so important to drain and flush your water heater, at least once a year.

I mention all of the above, because you very well, may be experiencing the same issue. The way to resolve it requires a little detective work on your part. Check you piping to see if any is galvanized pipe, rather than copper or PVC. Keep in mind, that the sink fixtures, may very well may be galvanized, if your home is 30 or more years old. If you find any, I highly recommend replacing it, before something goes wrong in the middle of the night or while you and your family are away from home. If you hard water is a result of using a well, place a whole house water filter on the main incoming water line. It does not have to be a charcoal filter. And to make your water more palatable, install an automatic water softener. For me, it was all money well spent.

Hope this helped you to troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

Shut water off at toilet and remove supply at tank connection. Get a bucket and test the flow of water by turning valve back on. If it is good then you know the problem is the fill valve. If you can't free any debris from the bottom of fill valve, replace it. Be sure before you reconnect supply to new valve after you flush out supply into bucket.

Should flow out of supply line be weak, the valve and supply should be changed. It is always good practice to replace the supply lines after working on fixtures. Faulty supply lines can cause considerable damage to your home. Always make sure connections are nice and snug (don't over tighten)

One more note: If your home still has galvanized piping, don't waste your money on new updated, high efficiency fixtures and appliances! They will ALL give you problems from the rust and corrosion that flows through your galvanized pipes. Today everything is designed for low flow, water saving and efficiency. That means they contain restrictive components which easily become congested from rusty galvanized piping! Call a professional to replace your entire water system from the source with copper. You can then enjoy the Tank-less water heaters, electronic faucets, pull out faucets and ultra low flow toilets with far fewer problems!

You have a clog in the hot water line.
If problem is at one faucet, then remove aerator and clean, then disassemble lines underneath sink.

If problem is at every faucet, then that moves search close to water heater.
Look at hot water line that exits water heater and trace that line to first Tee.
Look at cold water line that enters water heater and trace that line to Tee.
Clog is located between those 2 Tees.

Buy pressure tester that connects to hose thread.

Connect pressure gauge to hot water heater drain valve.
Then conduct same test you did at faucet.
See if pressure drops at tank.

If pressure drops, then clog is on cold side of tank, and probably hot side too.
If pressure does not drop, then clog is on hot side of tank.

Suspect 1 is any place two different metals join. For example galvanized pipe and copper.
Suspect 2 is supply pipes that exit top of tank. Take apart and look inside pipes for corrosion and sediment lining pipe walls.
Suspect 3 is elbow. Disassemble pipes and look for sediment and flakes of rust.
Suspect 4 is all suspects above, each having sediment and corrosion.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store

This is most likely your water valve. Your dishwasher valve may also go out. Whenever the water is turned off to the house and then turned back on, your line can get trash in it from being off.

This is a simple repair and we can provide parts removal/installation instructions for you when you purchase your parts from us.

Please contact us at:

http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service

We hope to hear from you soon.

sometimes pipe will scale over time depending on the water chemistry.
You can use PVC pipe indoors where your water enters the house.