Hi, Mice have destroyed the wiring in the compressor compartment of my freezer. The connection between the temperature control and the compressor relay has been severed. That is easy to repair. Segments of several smaller wires, green with a yellow trace on opposited sides, are missing and I can't trace them. I have come to the conclusion tlhey are ground wires, but I thought I should check before patching them to ground.
Curious, Sears will not supply me with a wiring diagram. Mel
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Re: Chest Freezer Wiring
green with yellow are ground wires and usually are from compressor to system chassis from your 3 prong plug use the green wire and just find a point on the chassis to pin to if you can get model number you can find on kenmore website
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2Possibilities. Some rat/mice may have chewed a wire or supply line to cause a leak or wire disconnect. Most likely you have a seal that has dried out and leaked the Freon out of the system. The compressor will turn on for a short while them turn off. Based on the age of the unit, repair is not advisable.
The green pilot light will illuminate to show that the appliance is switched on.
The red alarm light will also illuminate until the freezer
reaches the correct temperature.
If you press the SUPER button than you start fast freeze function and yellow light will illuminate.
I assume that the freezer is on and the green light is illuminated. This means that the freezer is on and energized.
Also, if freezer does not cooling, means that did not achieve the set temperature should be illuminated the red light (alarm).
Set the thermostat for example in position 4th and after that compressor should be start.
If compressor running but not cooling, defective is the system which circulates gas.
If compressor does not start, then is faulty thermostat, compressor or the wiring.
Wiring diagram of the chest freezer turned into chest fridge. The junction box is not required if all connections are made inside the fridge service compartment. Active (A) connection passes via latching relay terminals inside the thermostat.
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. This freezer uses the chassis to dissipate heat so that the freezer can freeze. There is not a condenser fan. So what you have is a basic and usually trouble free freezer. If your freezer is not cold at the bottom of the unit there can be a couple of causes:
1. The compressor is running slow due to the rotor dragging on the compressor stator.
2. The PTC relay contacts on the compressor are getting hot and the compressor is shutting off before the temp control cycles the compressor off. Usually that is how PTC relays fail.. one hot contact and the unit cycles much more rapidly than usual and eventually the compressor stops running completely.
3. The system Freon has leaked out of the system and the unit is running on low pressure. (If this is the case the symptom will only get worse and very soon)
4. There is a very remote possibility of the cold control being damaged from an external bump by someone due to the fact that it is located outside the freezer compartment on the chassis.
LIsten for a "clicking" noise that hums and then clicks. If you hear this the compressor is trying to start and it is what is called cycling on the relay. There is a relay and an overload device connected to the side of the compressor that starts it. The problem may be the relay/overload, or it may be the compressor. The noise will occur then repeat a short time(minutes) later. If you don't hear anything, it could be the cold control where you adjust the temperature. Find the control and with the power off, disconnect the wiring to it and try to figure out which of the wires plugged into it are the power leads.Often there is a ground with a stripe(often green in color) and maybe there is a schematic that will tell you. If you can determine this, jump the wires together using any method that will connect them. I often use a non-vinyl coated paper clip, make sure it is not touching metal and plug it in. If you hear that marvellous sound of power, replace the control. The control lead on chest freezers is uninsulated and is pushed into a hole in the freezer near the control and compressor. It pulls out and you push the new one in(I use some lube). If the relay is the culprit there are aftermarket ones available that have directions and are relatively cheap. Good luck, AJ
If it is the thermostat that is defective the two wires that go to the thermostat for compressor operation can be connected together which would power up the compressor. Unplug the unit before attempting to connect the two wires. after connection is made plug it back in and if the compressor operates and the freezer comes down in temperature you definitely have a bad thermostat.
A no power to the compressor is a good sign as far as being repairable is concerned. Locate the temperature control. Unplug the freezer and jumper the two main wires that connect to the control. Plug it in and if the unit runs replace the thermostat.
This can be a number of things, one being a bad compressor/motor. Does it run at all? If not, the compressor needs to be looked at. If you are handy, there may be a wiring schematic in the back to further troubleshoot. You can trace the wiring from the thermostat to see if there is power at other components.