Hello, welcome to FixYa.
On the AEG dryers there actually are fuses for the heating circuit, usually two.
If you remove the back odd shaped cover as you stated you had to check the heating element and trace the wires leading to/away from the element you should find a couple of fuse links in series with each element.
Also when replacing that back cover it is crucial the seal be in good condition as this will render your efforts futile once you re-install the back panel be allowing air to move across the element in a manner it shouldn't.
I will also inform you to check for negative air pressure in a room/closet not allowing enough make-up air to flow across the heater/fuses. ( if it's in a room closed, make sure there is a vent in the door or some other air supply for make-up )
This from AEG...
Environmental tips
• In the dryer, laundry becomes fluffy and soft. Fabric softeners are not therefore needed
when washing.
• Your dryer will function most economically if you:
– Always keep the ventilation slots on the base of the dryer unobstructed;
– Use the loading volumes specified in the programme overview;
– Ensure you have good ventilation in the installation room;
– Clean the micro-fine filter and fine strainer after each drying cycle;
– Spin the laundry well before drying.
Here's link you may find useful...
http://www.aeg-electrolux.ca/_res/specs/laundry/T56740_condensation_dryer_oper_instr.pdf
Let me know what you find or if you have any trouble understanding my post so I can clarify.
I'll try to provide further assistance should you need it.
P.S.
Sorry about the font change, it happened after "pasting" the AEG environment tips and I couldn't undo it.
Good luck.
macmarkus :)
Evidently there was no "font" change when I posted it, ha ha !
Hello. It didn´t help me. I have removed the back again and can´t find either fuses or some cind of overheat protector. I have taken a couple of fotos on the element and the thermostat if it could help. Is it possible for me to post them here or send them to you???
Hi,
It should definately have thermal fuses somewhere. You might be able to post photo's if they are less than 150KB and in "jpg" format.
I'll watch for you results/response and reply asap.
macmarkus :)
Hi, I´m not able to post the fotos they are too big. I tested the thermostat and it´s open when cold and with the heat of a lighter it "klicks" close so it sems to work. There is somethings looking as 2 resistors on the inside of the element 20mm high, 4mm with. I wounder if this may be non resetable thermal fuses??? I need to drop in bed soon (1:30 cet), but should take a closer look tomorrow.
Peter.
Hi, I´m not able to post the fotos they are too big. I tested the thermostat and it´s open when cold and with the heat of a lighter it "klicks" close so it sems to work. There is somethings looking as 2 resistors on the inside of the element 20mm high, 4mm with. I wounder if this may be non resetable thermal fuses??? I need to drop in bed soon (1:30 cet), but should take a closer look tomorrow.
Peter.
Hi, I´m not able to post the fotos they are too big. I tested the thermostat and it´s open when cold and with the heat of a lighter it "klicks" close so it sems to work. There is somethings looking as 2 resistors on the inside of the element 20mm high, 4mm with. I wounder if this may be non resetable thermal fuses??? I need to drop in bed soon (1:30 cet), but should take a closer look tomorrow.
Peter.
Hi, I´m not able to post the fotos they are too big. I tested the thermostat and it´s open when cold and with the heat of a lighter it "klicks" close so it sems to work. There is somethings looking as 2 resistors on the inside of the element 20mm high, 4mm with. I wounder if this may be non resetable thermal fuses??? I need to drop in bed soon (1:30 cet), but should take a closer look tomorrow.
Peter.
Hi, I´m not able to post the fotos they are too big. I tested the thermostat and it´s open when cold and with the heat of a lighter it "klicks" close so it sems to work. There is somethings looking as 2 resistors on the inside of the element 20mm high, 4mm with. I wounder if this may be non resetable thermal fuses??? I need to drop in bed soon (1:30 cet), but should take a closer look tomorrow.
Peter.
Hi, I´m not able to post the fotos they are too big. I tested the thermostat and it´s open when cold and with the heat of a lighter it "klicks" close so it sems to work. There is somethings looking as 2 resistors on the inside of the element 20mm high, 4mm with. I wounder if this may be non resetable thermal fuses??? They look exactly the same but when i mesure them one is open and one is closed, maby thats the problem.
Peter.
Hi, I´m not able to post the fotos they are too big. I tested the thermostat and it´s open when cold and with the heat of a lighter it "klicks" close so it sems to work. There is somethings looking as 2 resistors on the inside of the element 20mm high, 4mm with. I wounder if this may be non resetable thermal fuses??? They look exactly the same but when i mesure them one is open and one is closed, maby thats the problem.
Peter.
Yes I need to go to bed!!!!!!
Peter.
Hi,
Yes those would be the fuses. As I stated there will be two and they are "thermal fuse links". If you trace them they are indeed in series with the heaters, one for the hi wattage heater and the other for low wattage heater.
They come in a kit with new wires and connectors but I don't recall the part number at the moment.
Macmarkus :)
Hello again peter.
I should also add if you find the fuses faulty it can also be due to a broken blower wheel. I say this because it is quite common with the AEG dryers of this era. If broken it won't pull sufficient air over the heater, hence the thermal fuse links "open".
It can sometimes be mis-leading if you don't physically grab the blower wheel and spin it to see if it si free from the shaft.
When ( or IF ) replacing the blower be sure to apply some "lock-tite" or "super-glue" to the shaft before sliding on the new blower. It's also a good idea to place the holding clamp onto the blower before sliding it onto the shaft or using a "worm-gear" type clamp.
This is what it will look like...
The clamp shown in the image actually goes on the opposite side of the wheel, not the side presently facing UP. **It usually comes with instructions...usually** :oP
I will try to locate that part number for the fuse kit if you find you need it...I suspect you will.
Good luck.
macmarkus :o)
Hi Peter,
Please let me know what you find, everything helps for future visitors. Also can you post the part number if/when you get it ?
Thanks,
macmarkus :)
The dryer is upp and running. One of the termalbreakers was faulty and att least here in Sweden you have to replace the hole heater unit. Thanks fore all help and I learned a lot.
Hope this can help someone in the future. I allso learned that if you open the door during heating, it may damage the thermal fuses.
Thanks again,
Peter.
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Hi there. I had the same problem.
I opened the back of the machine, which was almost 12 years old, to find a lot of fluff and guessed it had overheated because the airflow was restricted.I used a meter to work out which of the thermal fuses was no longer working, and it then cost me less than 1 GBP for a new 152C thermal fuse at the local electronics store. To replace the heater would have cost 150 GBP, which was not worth it for such an old machine.
The heating unit gets too hot to be able to use solder to repair, so I bought a pack of crimp connectors, cut off the connector end and used a thin pair of pliers to crimp the fuse to the terminals.
Chris
The last alarm code memorized can be displayed even if the appliance is in normal operating mode (e.g. while the drying1,098 views
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