How do I replace front & rear bearings on my Indesit W123 washing machine

Hi

In a washing machine, the bearings protect the drive shaft from over rotation due to the forces applied to the washtub.
Unplug the washing machine from the power outlet. Turn off and disconnect the washer from the water pipes. Pull the machine forward so that you have easy access to the entire machine.

Unscrew the lid's top two screws and remove the machine's top panel.

Slide out the machine's back panel.

Slide off the fan belt and set it aside.

Unscrew the drive shaft's end bolt. This is the bolt that holds the pulley into position.

Remove the pulley by placing the screwdriver underneath it and gently leveraging it off.

Remove the drum's three bolts that hold its spider bracket into place. If the bolts are sticking use, rust remover and degreaser to loosen them. Do not apply too much pressure to the brackets or you will strip them.

Tap the spider joint gently with a hammer while pulling on it. The entire joint and the bearings should slide off.

Clean up the spider shaft, removing all rust and debris using cloth diapers and rust remover and degreaser solutions.

Tap the new bearings into place.

Tap the new drive shaft seal into place. The drive shaft seal should always be replaced with the bearings to ensure water-tight protection for the machinery.

Reassemble to washer.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
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where the noise came from during the spinning time? if is spinning time,check the foot of your unit if is unbalance and adjust it,if is ok but the noise still in der the belt of the unit is wort out check the belt is is loose,remove cover the the back to check,if is belt is ok,the bearing have big problem and need to replace the new one,but you need an technician to remove it coz very difficult to remove this,need to dismantle the hole unit to remove the bearing and replace it that why the technician can do that

Firstly,put your hand on the silver drum and revolve it back wards and forwards(side to side) ,if it feels as though it is or sounds rumbly the bearings have gone-not unknown with this make at 3 years of age!If this seems all ok,put one paddle in front of you and try to press down the drum at the front lip to see if it moves in relation to the front of the plastic tank-your trying to prove that the bearing shaft spider assembly hasn`t cracked-3 arms which are bolted between the drum and tank that holds the drum in place ie the bearing shaft-these arms match up to the 3 paddles.The spider is made from an AL2 alloy which is attacked by a fungus and makes it brittles so it cracks!!-strange to believe ,but true!!!!Suggest you turn of the power to the machine,undo the two lid screws at the rear of the machine and remove the w/top lid.Have a look at where the rear half and front half of the plastic tank are joined-i think from memory that these two are factory heat wielded so that it is impossible to dismantle the tank to replace the bearing or assoc parts even if you wanted to due to cost.Have alook and see!best of luck

you will need to remove the pulley first, the screw in the middle will need a knock to release the loctite.
you will then need to remove the spider assembly, that's the metal cross the bearings are sitting in. there are bolts set around the drum. spray the bearings shaft with oil to help removal, and you may need to hammer the spider as you remove it to loosen it. be careful of the heater.
then knock the bearings and seal out and do the reverse proceedure to put back together.

you will have to open the machine lid to see if its a plastic drum or metal.
the metal drum is easier as it has a 'spider asssembly'. remove this after taking off the pulley by taking out the bolts that hold it and bang it off being carefull of the heater element. remove the bearings and seal and refit in reverse order you took it off.
i would not advise replacing plastic drum bearings as they are a pain, removal of the rear of a plastic drum easy but not putting it back !

You can download a user manual for your m/c, but not a repair manual, Go to>
www.indesit .co.uk
Follow the links. To remove the spider, remove the rear panel, remove drum belt, undo drum pulley, you may have to heat the screw holding the pulley,undo all screws that you can see holding the spider to drum rear.
Withdraw spider, you may have to use some force to pull it off.
Fit new bearings or spider, and reassemble..
plz rate this solution.

either bearings or a foreign object in machine
bearings are a pig to replace on this machine

bolts holding spider to tub have loctite on them. only way i found to shift them is heat till they turn easy. i do refrigeration so have oxy/propane burner which makes it easy.
it is easy to damage tub when trying to lever spider out. i use three wood wedges and tap them in turn.
it is a pig of a job
threads are right hand

To change the bearing(s) and/or seal on a Simpson 45S100C 5.5kg Front loading washing machine:
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1) Disconnect from the power, water etc. and find your self some space;
2) Remove the lid (two screws at back of machine) and the back panel. I also took off the concrete weight on top to give myself some more room and less weight to move;
3) Remove the fan belt;
4) Unscrew the bolt on the end of the drive shaft. This holds the pulley in place;
5) The pulley is pushed on to a V-bushing. It may be very hard to get off. I found the easiest way was to put a large screwdriver behind the pulley hub and the 'spider' bracket behind. Then use leverage to pop it off. The V-bushing should then slide off the shaft;
6) Remove the three bolts that hold the ends of the spider to the drum. I found these very hard to get moving and they are also awkwardly placed. Use a socket set and you may need a bit of rust-remover/degreaser (WD-40 in Australia);
7) Remove the three bolts holding the central part of the spider to the drum;
8) Tap the end of the drive shaft with a hammer while pulling on the spider. The whole spider and the bearings should slide off the shaft;
9) The spider holds two bearings (one next to the drum and one next to the pulley). I’d recommend replacing both. In my case and apparently in most cases it is the bearing closest to the drum that gets damaged, usually due to water leaking through the drive-shaft seal. The two bearings are different sizes 6205 and 6206. When ordering replacements, I’d recommend rubber sealed ‘RS’ bearings. There is also a shaft seal that sits between the larger bearing and the tub. The seal comes from Simpson ($25). The bearing can be bought from any bearing supply company and are about half the cost of the ‘official’ bearings, and probably better quality. I paid $16 for the 6205 and $20 for the 6206;
10) Knock out the old bearings. The correct way to do this is with bearing pullers etc, but I used a long steel rod (one of the transport locking rods that new machine’s come with) and a hammer (not even rubber). First knock out the large bearing and the drive shaft seal by inserting the rod through from the other bearing side and hit firmly while alternating the position of the force around the case of the bearing. I propped the spider against a brick to ensure the bearing and seal could pop out freely. Now turn around and repeat for the other bearing;
11) Clean up the spider and shaft, ensuring you remove any rust and debris;
12) Tap the new bearings into place. Again I used a hammer and firm tapping around the ring of the bearing;
13) Tap in the new drive shaft seal;
14) Reassemble.

I had the same problem the drum when in spin cycle with the machine almost walked out the door shaking violently as if it was possessed. Check the drum on the inside of machine as most times it has some kind of screw to hold it in place for transporting etc. I did find on the other cycles it worked fine except for the spin cycle, and l have this machine in my caravan near my bed so you can imagine the ferocious noise and how scary it was, and it was a simple error on our behalf. I hope this resolves your problem. Kind Regards Karen.